Thread: How does your skin differ between a great razor and a good one?

I use three markers for testing my edges the first time they come out of the stones, alum burn, smoothness and sharpness.

Alum burn is how much burn I get from the alum after the shave. I put a number out of 5. Five being like when you cut and you put a steptic pencil on it, and 0, no alum burn at all. 1 is a little tingle, 2 is a more pronounce tingle with some spotty burn, 3 is over all burn, 4 overall burn with some spotty strong burn, and 5 is full hard burn (never had a 5).

Smoothness is how the edge feels gliding down my face. This is where it gets like wine testing. Buttery smooth, smooth with a presence, edgy, and so on, terms that mean something to me. The scale is 1-5, 5 being the smoothes.

Then I rate the sharpness, 3 passes (no touchups) and then I feel my face with my wet soapy hand, if no stubbles at all, it is a 100% BBS. If I find stubbles (most of the times), I add the area up and compare it to the total area of the shaving face, and assign an overall percentage of the added patches, in relation to the face. 85-90% BBS is acceptable for an 8k shave. Once I go to the finishers, 94-98% is more the norm. I still finish my shave with touchups to get 100% BBS on the days I feel like getting one. Also, there is a correlation the higher the BBS # the longer the stubbles take to come back the next day. I have razor edges that get me 94-96% BBS in two passes but you know on the first pass if they are two pass razors or not. Still I evaluate them on three pass. Not a perfect system, but is what I use.

So, to answer your question, a great razor would be one that gives me 0/5 alum burn, smoothness of 5, hardly feel the edge on the face, and 100% BBS in three passes. But, it doesn't stop there. How easy is the blade to maneuver on the face, how well it balance on face and stropping, spanish point is better for me than a round, barber notch? and esthetics, good looking scales, clean blade (the least important for me), are some other factors to make a WOW shave razor.

For example, a top tier razor on my rotation, is a George Wostenholm near wedge. It rates on alum burn .5/5, smoothness 4.5/5 and sharpness 95% BBS, but it gives me a memorable shave every time. Like a good thing I keep it on a rotation so I don't spoil myself too much, and some times it comes out of rotation when I feel like it. Then I have a very good ERN razor, that gives me as smooth and even closer shave than the Wostenholm, 97% BBS, but it keeps on rotation or goes to travel with me sometimes. Is not that I don't enjoy the ERN, is that it doesn't have some of the other factors that make a WOW razor for me. The ERN is round point, plastic scales and feel light on the hand. The Wosty, have barber notch with Spanish point and black horn scales that scream classic! Strops like a dream and feels balance on the hand.

We keep searching the dragon for that ultimate experience, and they come and go sometimes (retouch a razor and it never comes back to what it once was or it does). This is what makes the hobby a life time learning fun and intriguing pursue for the perfect memorable shave. Also like wine, add the moment factor. A wine tasted at the winery usually taste better than when you bring it home. A razor that is a good shaver, could give you more satisfaction than another greater shaver if it is a heirloom or have some other important significance for you! It never ends!!!! Double O