Thread: Newbie Needs Opinion

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

BTW, your first name isn't Henry is it? LOL

Mine is not but the name of the character I was inspired long ago is Henry. You got the novel, didn't you?

Hi everyone: I would have started a new thread, but don't know how.

- - - Thus, this question : All straight razors have a thick spine that prevents getting a thin cutting edge if you sharpen it on a stone.
- - - Why is this ? Is there a certain angle that is best for shaving ? It should be noted that purchased blades for straight razors are extremely thin . . . . so again, why is this ? I have tried everything I can think of on my 4000/8000 stone and am unable to shave with it.

Originally Posted by Barry2

Hi everyone: I would have started a new thread, but don't know how.

- - - Thus, this question : All straight razors have a thick spine that prevents getting a thin cutting edge if you sharpen it on a stone.
- - - Why is this ? Is there a certain angle that is best for shaving ? It should be noted that purchased blades for straight razors are extremely thin . . . . so again, why is this ? I have tried everything I can think of on my 4000/8000 stone and am unable to shave with it.

Pick a forum that best fits and click on the thread starter

your question is why you can't get a shaveable edge? Try going to the honing forum. Was your razor shave ready when you bought it? Are you honing with just the weight of the blade? Is the entire blade flat on the hone? Is your 4/8 flat? What sharpness tests are you using?

there are lots of threads to help you on your honing journey.

Originally Posted by JTmke

Pick a forum that best fits and click on the thread starter

your question is why you can't get a shaveable edge? Try going to the honing forum. Was your razor shave ready when you bought it? Are you honing with just the weight of the blade? Is the entire blade flat on the hone? Is your 4/8 flat? What sharpness tests are you using?

there are lots of threads to help you on your honing journey.

- - - I don't know whether it was shave ready when I bought it, I just assummed that it was not and went ahead with the 4000 and the 8000. The stones are brand new and flat and the only test for me is whether I can use it to shave.

- - - Another question/observation in addition to the ones in my previous post is that the so-called "heel" or horizontal stabilizer will not allow the blade to sit flat on the stone at that end of the blade ie. the end closest to the handle. It is therefore a flat-out impossibility for the blade to sit flat on the stone, unless one grinds it off. And I hasten to add that I also have stropped it up to 100 strokes on each side.

Originally Posted by Chinaski

You are right, there is no certain correct shave method and everyone consider to their skin's health.
I don't do ATG anymore since I got great close shaves with my DE and I don't get stuck the BBS everyday(used to/not anymore). So far so good WTG+XTG passes are enough but I can't live with only WTG because I'm heavy bearded man.
I will continue to do with the grain and then try to correct stretching and right direction for across the grain.
Thanks for everything again.

Welcome to the forum!
I don't have a certain rotation because I have too many shave ready razors & I love every one of them but it is hard for me to get under my chin at times because I have a goatee so I have to use whichever angle I can that best suits the occasion. I have some razors that give me very close shaves & I prefer those the most but I still try to hone all my razors the best I can. Each one is different & so is each shave but I love using a straight razor. They have made a very large come back I think because of these new razors that have 4 & 5 blades & the refills aren't cheap. Who knows, they might make a 6 blade now. When you're set up with hones & strops, it is cheaper in the long run to use a straight razor plus I enjoy it! I love my different straights, I have one that is shave ready from the late 1700's. If only it could talk!!!! My next shave will be with a Boker I just finished changing the scales on because one was broken. I also polished the blade with my Dremel & some Maas polish & it shines really pretty now. It is in Show N Tell right here, http://straightrazorpalace.com/show-...r-morning.html
I then honed it & stropped it so it is ready for a test drive. I hope you love the forum, there's plenty of great information on here.
Steve

Originally Posted by Barry2

- - - I don't know whether it was shave ready when I bought it, I just assummed that it was not and went ahead with the 4000 and the 8000. The stones are brand new and flat and the only test for me is whether I can use it to shave.

- - - Another question/observation in addition to the ones in my previous post is that the so-called "heel" or horizontal stabilizer will not allow the blade to sit flat on the stone at that end of the blade ie. the end closest to the handle. It is therefore a flat-out impossibility for the blade to sit flat on the stone, unless one grinds it off. And I hasten to add that I also have stropped it up to 100 strokes on each side.

New hones should be lapped to ensure they are flat before using them Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Library .

Here is a guide to honing a razor Beginner's Guide to Honing - Straight Razor Place Library . The spine and edge of the razor should both rest on the hone, this gives you the proper angle for honing. Straights are designed that way. There is no reason for the stabilizer to be resting on the hone as that is not necessary nor desirable while honing.

Bob

Agree with Carl streaching the skin properly solves alot of problems.

Originally Posted by BobH

New hones should be lapped to ensure they are flat before using them Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Library .

Here is a guide to honing a razor Beginner's Guide to Honing - Straight Razor Place Library . The spine and edge of the razor should both rest on the hone, this gives you the proper angle for honing. Straights are designed that way. There is no reason for the stabilizer to be resting on the hone as that is not necessary nor desirable while honing.

Bob

Very true!!!
I bought a DMT 95 lapping plate when I first bought my hones & lapped them all in before using them. After that I used a 325 grit plate. Anyone out there that thinks you can just buy new hones & get after it, please lap your hones first like Bob says. They don't tell you that on the box or possibly in the instructions when you buy a new hone but it must be done. There is no way around it. Thank you Bob for putting that piece of info in there!!!

Originally Posted by Chinaski

I need to pick one of my razors and go on with it for a while.

What ever feels right to you is the correct approach. Personally, I have always rotated razors and I felt that each one taught me different things about my technique. It also helped me feel when a razor was not up to par in sharpness with the rest of them when I was starting.

Hi : Glad to see that you agree there is no reason for the horizontal stabilizer to rest on the stone. Not a single person on the web has stated this.

- - - As for the angle, seems to me that it would a case of the sharper the angle the better as in safety razors, but that contradicts the reality that straight razors are made with a spine Again, nobody is willing to come out and state categorically that maximum sharpness requires a certain angle. . . . . Why ? . . . Probably because even the experts don't know.