Thread: shave guidance

I'm not sure, Matt, but the way you describe things, it sounds like you might have a bit of a heavy hand. Remember to keep your pressure very light and even on the strop and in the shave.

X

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

Matt,

I'd be willing to take a look at your razor and fix it--no charge. I have a feeling it may need some work by now. PM me if you're interested.

Josh

Thanks alot Josh

I sent ya a pm.

Just like matt and raZor, I've been (and still am) experiencing very similar problems.

Bread Prep
Shower. Try to keep face wet while whipping up lather. I end up lathering my face within about 5 minutes after the shower. Leave lather on face while stropping. Wash lather off with warm water and re-lather. I'm using both C&E Nomad and Trumpers Violet shave soaps. Both lather well, though I prefer the Trumpers somewhat.

The Shave
WTG pass, starting on cheeks, then neck, then front of throat, then chin, then upper lip. Rinse, re-lather. Then second XTG pass.

My neck hair grows sideways, from ear to nose and slightly upwards, so I've got to somehow manage a stroke from my shoulder towards the chin. Feels awkward and not comfortable. Can't quite get that one right and always run the risk of hitting the tang against my clavicle.

Finish
Warm water rinse, cold water rinse, alum block, C&E after-shave balm.



My Problems
The razor doesn't glide through the hair, not even on the cheeks. It tugs and pulls at the hair.

I've tried varying the pressure and the angle. The razor (it was a present, bought from ClassicShaving) allegedly went through Lynn's honing service - though I'm not sure whether it actually was honed. Maybe my GF made a mistake when she ordered the razor, I don't know. I think my stropping on a hanging strop isn't too shabby, but I've no comparison. I did a pyramid on my pasted paddle strop; this may have helped a little but I'm not sure.

FWIW, I have tried what I think is the HHT. Taking one of my hairs, hold it hanging down, and taking a swipe at it with the razor. It just bends the hair out of the way. Mind you, I've got fairly fine hair (on my head, my beard is like wire).

I can shave and remove most of the stubble, but it doesn't feel comfortable. Especially in the neck area I'm left with a lot of irritation. I don't do ATG passes, just WTG and XTG.

Comparison with DE
I used to shave with a Mach3 cartridge razor, but switched to a DE razor about two months ago. I get good results with the DE (Wilkinson Sword blades from Boots) but need to remember to change the blades frequently. I guess they do 2 - 3 shaves. No irritation when I'm doing well, a little irritation if I used too much pressure. I also do 2 passes with the DE, but generally shy away from a 3rd ATG pass to avoid ingrown hairs (perhaps with practice...).

At least with the DE I can shave every day. With the cartridge every other day was the limit.

I shave with the DE during the week (little time in the morning) but use the Straight on weekends.


Summary
I guess my main issue is not having a benchmark. I don't know whether the issue is a blade that's not sharp enough, or whether it's the actual shaving technique. It could be that I have to improve the bread prep, but somehow feel that this can't be the only point.

I'm planning to book a barber shave, perhaps at the Trumpers shop in Mayfair. I suspect they use replaceable blades for hygiene reasons, so don't know whether that'll be representative of what my own shaving should feel like.

BTW, has anyone been to their "Shaving School"?

Originally Posted by Wilbad

The razor doesn't glide through the hair, not even on the cheeks. It tugs and pulls at the hair.

This is a razor which is failing the Shave Test and sounds suspiciously like it's not sharp enough. you should get it honed by a member here to set the benchmark. You can PM me if you want me to do it.

X

Originally Posted by Wilbad

The razor doesn't glide through the hair, not even on the cheeks. It tugs and pulls at the hair.

I've tried varying the pressure and the angle. The razor (it was a present, bought from ClassicShaving) allegedly went through Lynn's honing service - though I'm not sure whether it actually was honed. Maybe my GF made a mistake when she ordered the razor, I don't know. I think my stropping on a hanging strop isn't too shabby, but I've no comparison. I did a pyramid on my pasted paddle strop; this may have helped a little but I'm not sure.

FWIW, I have tried what I think is the HHT. Taking one of my hairs, hold it hanging down, and taking a swipe at it with the razor. It just bends the hair out of the way. Mind you, I've got fairly fine hair (on my head, my beard is like wire).

It's blunt. Regardless of your hair type, it should at the very least catch on the blade as you make a pass. Plenty of people get good shaves without getting a clean cut on thee HHT (or so they claim), but yours isn't even close. Try the thumb pad test; I suspect that yours will come in at the lesser level, where it feels sharp but doesn't grip the skin as you move it across the blade.

If you blade was shipped as shave ready, then it is most likely that your paddle strop took the edge off. It is possible to do this on a normal hanging strop, too, but I'd put my money on the paddle. The key to getting any form of honing right is to test the blade as you go.

I'm planning to book a barber shave, perhaps at the Trumpers shop in Mayfair. I suspect they use replaceable blades for hygiene reasons, so don't know whether that'll be representative of what my own shaving should feel like.

BTW, has anyone been to their "Shaving School"?

I thought that the Shave School was for DE only, not straight? So it seems in their press pictures. Let us know how you get on!

I guess my main issue is not having a benchmark. I don't know whether the issue is a blade that's not sharp enough, or whether it's the actual shaving technique. It could be that I have to improve the bread prep, but somehow feel that this can't be the only point.

I'm planning to book a barber shave,

Wilbad

I've been following this thread as I am a neophyte. I think, from what I have been reading that you did a smart thing by getting a real shave ready razor but I think you rushed your self looking for the perfect shave out of the box. I think that will take time and patience. When Lynn says in his DVD that he decided to only shave with a str8 from then on, I think that some people loved the line a little too much; they burned their boats and likely dismissed the fact that Lynn was probably a veteran when he turned to str8's only. At any rate he comitted to a life long learning and skill development process.

If you don't mind a newbie’s recommendation; I would second the idea of visiting a barber and watching and enjoying a close shave. Focus on how much he stretches the skin, and other nuances you may be omitting. And watch the heavy hand on the stropping and honing also watch out for dinging the razor on the tap or sink. Good luck man.

I'm definitely not in a position to only shave with a str8 from now on... I'll need a hell of a lot more practive before then, and even then... I do quite like a DE razor as well, especially when I'm in a hurry for work and a little worse for wear from the night before.

Anyway, I've decided to believe those who have diagnosed my shaving problem as having a blunt razor. I haven't sent it anywhere for honing yet (mostly because I'm in the UK and it seems that all honemeisters are NOT in the UK).

So I grabbed the Kropp str8 I had bought two months ago; now that thing was nearly as blunt as a butter knife! Upon closer inspection, it even had a small chip knocked out of the edge.

Took to it with my Global whetstones (120, 1000 and 5000 grit) to straighten it, and then finished off with a pyramid on the Norton 4/8.

Can't say that I've turned into an expert overnight, but I did end up with a razor that was definitely sharper than the Dovo. So I was happy. It felt different on the strop, and I was even able to shave with it - markedly less pulling and tugging

OK, folks, we now know at least part of the reason why Matt has been suffering so. His razor arrived today, and it was in need of some TLC.

The original hone job appeared to be decent, as the bevel had a mirror polish on it. But there were several dings, and sections of the fin looked like they'd bent over a bit. I cringed when I thought about shaving with it...

We started with some sandpaper and work on the 1K, then a little work on the 4/8K and a finish on my magic barber hone. It's slicing hairs pretty neatly now, so we'll see how the test shave goes tomorrow.

Matt, we'll get you fixed up yet.

Josh

OK, folks, we now know at least part of the reason why Matt has been suffering so. His razor arrived today, and it was in need of some TLC.

The original hone job appeared to be decent, as the bevel had a mirror polish on it. But there were several dings, and sections of the fin looked like they'd bent over a bit. I cringed when I thought about shaving with it...

We started with some sandpaper and work on the 1K, then a little work on the 4/8K and a finish on my magic barber hone. It's slicing hairs pretty neatly now, so we'll see how the test shave goes tomorrow.

Matt, we'll get you fixed up yet.

Sounds interesting. I am not sure how I could have screwed an edge up that bad in 4 shaves though. Im excited to see how it turns out when I get it back.

It only takes one bad stropping to screw up a razor. Mr raZor, I test shave with every razor that I hone, so I know exactly how the edge is when they leave. I've been watching new guys mess em up for too long to worry about, which is why I never mind straightening one back up for you guys. I also get a kick out of the eager to be new honemeisters helping out........lol.

Have fun.

Lynn