Thread: Best Blade for Heavy Beard

I have a few questions for the heavy beard guys and the blades they prefer to use. I'm quite new to wet shaving but have pretty much got past the learning curve on my entry level 5/8th full hollow. I get 3 passes pretty efficiently and end up with what I would interpret as a BBS, but after 24 hours my face is very rough.
I'm ready to take the training wheels off and step up to a heavier/larger blade. I would appreciate feedback on how a 6/8+ heavy wedge would compare to a 13/16 or larger full hollow.
Also, I do realize that a wedge is a completely different animal shaving wise so I accept that there will be an additional learning curve there. In terms of blade maintenance, are there any differences in how you would refresh a wedge on a 12k as compared to a hollow grind?

Phelix,

Any blade will shave a heavy beard as long as it is shave ready and used with the proper skill. I have a heavy beard and shave daily. I have used everything from 4/8 to 8/8, hollow, half hollow or wedge, all with the same good results. Make sure you prepare your beard properly. Also, be sure you know how to strop properly.

Can't comment on the best blade for a heavy beard as I don't have a heavy beard. I would believe what Obie is saying though. I have a normal beard and I can tell you that if I did not shave for 24 hours my face would feel very rough too. I think that is pretty normal.

Bob

+1. The shortest answer to the question of what blade for a heavy beard...A sharp one.

Yes...any SHARP blade will do the job; but some will do it better than others. A large-ish quarter hollow (like my Hart Steel 7/8) seems to be more efficient than my Boker Tree Brand 5/8. Both are sharp. Both work well. I have a tough beard and 2-3 days worth of beard is more easily remedied by one of my Harts than one of the "more hollow" grinds I maintain in the quiver....

However the OP stated that he was already getting a BBS with no problems. He wanted to know what would last longer and the answer to that is nothing. If BBS is being achieved but the duration is "short" (why 24 hrs is considered short, I don't know), it has to do with rate of growth and no razor can alter that. I shave daily for the same reason.

Sorry for the ambiguously phrased question guys. Phoenix51 had it right, what I should have asked is if a heavier wedge or wider hollow will allow for fewer passes or are they truly pretty much all the same as long as they are sharp. If a larger blade can do in 1 or 2 passes what my 5/8 hollow does in 3, which do you prefer and why?

Thanks again for the good information

Originally Posted by Phelix

Sorry for the ambiguously phrased question guys. Phoenix51 had it right, what I should have asked is if a heavier wedge or wider hollow will allow for fewer passes or are they truly pretty much all the same as long as they are sharp. If a larger blade can do in 1 or 2 passes what my 5/8 hollow does in 3, which do you prefer and why?

Thanks again for the good information

The size of the blade has nothing to do with how well it will shave. If a small blade and a lager sized blade are equally sharp it will take the same number of passes with either to get the job done. No matter the size or grind it is the edge that counts and how sharp it is. Size and grind are usually more of a personal preference sort of thing. Nothing wrong with experimenting and a bit of variety too.

Bob

Should have added that I have not a huge preference in size other than I don't care for smaller than 4/8 or larger than 8/8. The same goes for grinds as I have a range of near wedges to extra/bellied hollows in rotation. So long as the edge gives me a smooth shave I will use darn near anything.

I have a pretty normal beard and I shave with str8's from 4/8th's to 8/8th's full hollow to near wedge and while they all shave a little or allot differently, none seem to eliminate the need for me to do a three + pass shave to get to BBS. I think the way the edge is honed is a much more important consideration.
The larger razors allow you to make more strokes before wiping the razor off and they feel different in the hand but for me it's all about the edge.
Sharp, smooth and comfortable on the ATG pass so that I can use the lightest of pressure for me is what's most important. And no matter how close my shave is, at 24hrs. post shave I need another shave, I guess I'm lucky like that.

The amount of hollow does not make much difference on my face, until the most extreme hollows which may flex somewhat making them a bit more prone to catching, unless kept very sharp and used with a deft touch. Steel composition and heat treat impact on the potential for flexing as well as the extent of hollowness. My Friodur inox blades are quite hollow, but do not seem to flex while shaving.

The best way to prevent catching is to keep the blade sharp, the angle low (spine close to the skin), and razor pressure very light. Shave closeness mostly depends on blade sharpness, skin stretching, and the direction of the stroke with respect to hair growth, assuming good preshave preparation to soften hairs. I need to use ATG with a very sharp blade and stretched skin to get BBS on my neck and jaw line.

Razor burn is usually related to trying to compensate for a blade starting to get dull by increasing pressure and using a greater number of strokes.

I do not expect the post shaving BBS feeling to last ionger than about 8 - 10 hours, but it should stay socially acceptable (looks well shaved) for about 24 hours. I get a closer feeling shave with a SR than when I use a DE razor. The SR shave lasts a few hours longer than my DE shave.

I prefer significant but not extreme hollow because of greater feed back from the holow grind razor in touch and sound compared to wedgier blades. When the rasping noise during a stroke is gone, the hairs are gone.

Hollow grinds can be easier to get shave ready and keep shave ready as they have narrower bevels requiring the removal or polishing of less steel. I like wider blades because the increased weight makes for smoother strokes and the wider blade collects and holds more lather requiring fewer rinses. My heavy grinds make little sound while shaving, but also shave well.

It sounds like the OP is doing very well with his 5/8 hollow grind. I believe that it is mostly a matter of preferences. The 5/8 width hollow grind has been the most popular straight razor in the US for more than 100 years.

My best SR is the one that gets sharpest, is easy to shave with, and is easy to keep sharp. Everything else is secondary. When I finally dial in a razor really well and it is easy to maintain, I stick with it and favor it over all other razors.