Thread: Is My Razor Sharp Enough?

If it is a brand new Dovo with the factory edge, then it will take a lot more honing than what you have done, a whole lot more.
My best recommendation would be the send it out to be professionally honed - costs around $30, and there are honers listed in the classifieds.
This will also give you idea of the sharpness that you need to obtain when you start honing for yourself.

Since you already bought new hones - make sure that you flatten them before you sharpen a razor on them.

Mastering the Straight it hard enough with a perfect, pro honed edge...learning to hone and shave would be in the learn how to tune and play the piano by the correspondence method...snail mail version.

And I've been sharpening carbon steel tools for a long time - Straight razors seem to be as much Zen as skill, it takes some time and trial and error to teach yourself.

A pro-hone will get you jump started and a local mentor will save you time and frustration, but it is a fine motor skill that takes an investment in time. Worth it (to this crowd) but a little help can go a long way.

Good luck and smooth(er) shaving...

Try about 30 on the 5k and 20 on the 12k with very light pressure and re-test, if it's still bad it needs a bevel reset.

As others have said put your location on your profile and someone local might be able to help

Read the first 3 threads in the Honing forum and the Maintaining a Razor, Honing section in the Library.

Comfort is not a requirement for a knife. How you get there is more than you can get from a video. Second to hands on is reading, several accounts of how to get there.

You also will need magnification, 60x lighted loupe, $2 on line. You have good stones, but they must be lapped and the edges rounded or beveled. A sheet of 325 wet & dry will get you there, read the lapping section for more info. Lap them 2-3 times spinning the stone each time.

The 12k is your go to stone, it is a very aggressive stone and will do a lot more than finish. The 12k Super Stone is bulletproof.

Tape the spine with 2 layers of electrical tape, replace the tape if you burn through the first layer.

Look at the bevel from the side with magnification, looking for chips and straight down on the edge, to see how far the bevels are from meeting. With razors, you do what the edge needs. not pro forma, X amount of laps on X stone. Once you have set the bevel, (flatten the bevel, set the correct bevel angle, spine to edge and get them to meet in one plane, a sharp edge), the goal is to get the edge as straight as possible. Straighter, more comfort, sharpness is a given. You do that by removing the previous stria with each stone in the progression.


Fortunately, you did not do too many laps on the stones and you should have flatish bevels at a close to proper angle, they probably will not be meeting.

Hone on the 5k until the bevels are flat and meeting in a straight sharp edge. Look down on the edge to see if they are meeting.
Then hone on the 12k until you remove all the heavier, 5k stria and have an even stria pattern on the bevel, from the top of the bevel to the edge. Do as many laps as it takes to get the bevels to meet, chip free.

Once you have a straight edge and even stria on the bevel, strop on linen and leather, start with, 50 laps on leather. Look at the edge again, if it chips or is rolled do more laps on the 12k with light pressure until the edge is straight and chip free.

There is a lot of detail skipped in this description, you will pick that up in your reading. Here is a similar thread, with lots of good info and what a set bevel should look like.