Thread: HHT sharp FINALLY!!

So I've embarked on the honing journey and at first found the waters quite choppy!
I had an old boker that was in fair condition, but had been honed to hell and back, and decided it would be a good one to learn on. Using the polish Wojtec hones, and some 600 grit sandpaper to work out a nice chip, I worked for days, (yes days), struggling to get to HHT sharpness. Then the breakthrough....

I bought a German 2-sided paddle strop on ebay with one side pre-pasted in Cromium oxide. Surely this would get me shaving sharp!

But sadly, to my dismay, even passes on the green side of the paddle wouldn't do it. So I somehow decided the razor needed too much work and set it aside. For my next experiment, I pulled a PRISTINE Joseph Rodgers 5/8 out of my small collection. This one I'd bought at an antique store, and had quite a sharp edge one her when purchased. It wasn't HHT sharp, or shaving, but was REALLY close. I gave her a short 5-5, 1-5, 1-3 pyramid on the slate and arkansas, and then took her to the pasted paddle. ALMOST THERE. So I decided to forgo the slate altogether, and polish her out on the arkansas. 20 laps on the Ark, and then 20 on the pasted paddle, and WHAM! Popping hairs in the HHT like nobody's business!!! Still haven't had the chance to shave test, but am stoked beyond words that I got a razor to pass the HHT.

I am an EXTREME NOOB with the hone and whatnot, but have somehow stumbled into a process that seems might allow me to refresh my razors at the very least. Awesome!

So if she's not shaving sharp, should I start with Arkansas again, or the paddle/paste?? (Always another question for you guys.) Do you think it's wise to simply avoid the slate hone once I get a razor decently sharp?

I don't have a lot of experience using the polish hones but here are my thoughts. The pyramid method was developed by Lynn for use with the Norton which is a very fast cutting hone to build and polish the edge incramentally without overhoning. Most people (including myself) do not use a pyramid method when they use natural stones like your polish hones which generally cut MUCH slower than the Norton. If the razor is shaving well but it is not there yet I would just stay on the finer grit natural stone (I think that the Arkansas is supposed to be finer) for maybe 10-20 passes then do another 10-20 passes on the chromium oxide. Then do another shave test. If you do this a few times without success then it could be time to go back to the lower grit stone. I am sure that you have heard by now that a good HHT does not equal a good shave; however, I have found that if the razor is passing the HHT and thumb pad tests well then it usually means that the razor is pretty close to being shave ready.

While HHT may not be very indicative of a good shave, I myself was quite happy when I first got it. If nothing else - just a bit of encouragement to keep you going

Good luck
Ivo

for dulled razors - start with as little as possible - some stropping, linen if leather not enough, maybe chromium, etc. - going as far down as necessary

BBSWANNABE,

What did you use on the Arkansas for a wetting or swarf floating agent and which color Arkansas gave you the good results.

'nother curious newb', Bruce

I've been using lather on the Arkansas, which seems to work nicely. Oddly enough, I used just water today on the Joseph Rodgers, and that worked nicely too. Up to you and your tastes. The later does seem to make the stone cut slower via lubrication, but I could be wrong about this. I've been using an Arkansas I got off of ebay from the same guy selling the waipencia razors. Not sure what grade, but he claims its around 6000-8000 grit. While I have been able to now get a HHT sharp edge, I still think the Norton is probable more serviceable. It's rather fun to be working "in the dark" so to speak with the Arkansas though. Kinda gotta make it up as you go along.