Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: Rust Spots after First Shave?

  1. #11
    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    2,943
    Thanked: 433

    Default

    Rinse it off with very hot water and dry completely with a towel then strop 10 laps on linen and 10 laps leather then set out open to air dry.

  2. #12
    32t
    32t is offline
    Senior Member blabbermouth 32t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    50 miles west of randydance
    Posts
    9,573
    Thanked: 1352

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rodb View Post
    Rinse it off with very hot water and dry completely with a towel then strop 10 laps on linen and 10 laps leather then set out open to air dry.
    That dries off the edge but how about the rest?

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Uzi View Post
    Well, Florida is indeed humid, but it's not humid enough to rust and pit steel in the amount of time it takes to shave. How long did you have it before you tried to shave with it? Did you inspect it before you shaved? Have you talked to the seller about this?

    In answer to your question about how to prevent high carbon steel from rusting. After use make sure that the blade is dry. You can wipe it with a towel or toilet tissue making sure that you don't touch the cutting edge. Take 2 squares of toilet tissue and run them between the scales to make sure there is no water inside the scales. While shaving try not to get any water in the area where the razor is pinned to the scales, if you do make sure that area gets dried out -- perhaps a blow dryer. Let the razor sit until you are sure that it is dry, then you can put a very light coat of oil on the blade and tang, (again making sure not to damage the edge.) Many people tend to over-oil steel. Only a drop or two of oil spread on each side of the blade and tank is enough to prevent rust. Then store the razor in the least humid nearby location that you have. Depending on what oil you use, you may need to wipe the oil off before you strop for your next shave.
    Thank you for the information. I had the razor for about a month before my first use. It came to me already with a coat of oil. This was a brand new razor, not a vintage one. To be honest, I really didn't inspect the razor a lot before I started to shave, but I did notice the part on the toe. I didn't put it together that it could be rust, due to the fact that it was brand new. I guess that was my bad.
    Last edited by littlej2455; 01-31-2016 at 12:02 PM.

  4. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by criswilson10 View Post
    The spot on the toe looks like the razor got dinged against something (faucet? sink?). It's easy to ding your first razor up.

    The spot on the spine looks a lot like a manufacturing defect. If it is dead center (side to side) of the spine and rough then it they didn't polish it smooth.
    A little bit of sanding with 2500 grit will smooth it down.

    The other spots can be removed with Mother's Mag and Wheel Polish, Maas, Flitz, etc. Just be careful of your fingers near the bevel.
    I tried to get the toe in focus on the pictures. But I don't believe I hit the razor against anything, because as soon as I got the razor I put it on my dresser. That is a good idea though.

    I just purchased Maas to see what that could for the two spots. Thank you for your help!

  5. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 32t View Post
    In my opinion the only way to reasonably keep a razor from rusting is to not use it. The spot on the spine looks understandable for a vintage blade but I can't comment on the toe as the picture is out of focus.
    Sorry for the photos. I tried to get the spine in focus for you to see. I attempted again with my phone this time. Thanks again for your help!
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    32t likes this.

  6. #16
    Fatty Boom Boom WW243's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Rockville
    Posts
    3,258
    Thanked: 638

    Default

    I recently followed some advice from Rezdog and I switched from Ballistol to Renaissance Wax, an oil to a wax to coat the blade after drying. I am happy with the results, just another option for you to consider.
    "Call me Ishmael"
    CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!

  7. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WW243 View Post
    I recently followed some advice from Rezdog and I switched from Ballistol to Renaissance Wax, an oil to a wax to coat the blade after drying. I am happy with the results, just another option for you to consider.
    That's awesome to know you can use wax instead of oil. I might give that a try. I have reinassance wax from my gun, so I can try that out too. I'm assuming just like the oil, a little bit goes a long way!

  8. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Just wanted to follow up with y'all. I spoke with the seller, and they are great and are going to help remove the water spots. In the meantime, I applied a little bit of Maas, and that removed about 95% of the spots. Thank you again for the support.

    The first couple of shaves are definetly a large learning curve. I am starting to get the hang of it, but still getting razor burn on the neck and some spots where it is baby smooth and otheswhere you can still visually see the hair cuticle. Getting there! Thanks again.
    Last edited by littlej2455; 02-04-2016 at 11:34 AM.

  9. #19
    Uzi
    Uzi is offline
    Atlas is Shrugging Uzi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    The Deep South
    Posts
    194
    Thanked: 32

    Default

    That's great that the vendor is willing to polish out the spots for you. With regard to Renaissance wax, sure it will work. I used to use it on firearms all the time before I found something even better. There's certainly nothing wrong with using it. However, any very light coat of oil, whether organic or synthetic, will work on carbon steel to prevent rust. For example, I protect knives that I might use for food prep, deer skinning, etc. in the woods with pure virgin olive oil and that works fine. The only trick, regardless of the lubricant used, is to make sure that the blade is absolutely dry before it is applied.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •