Thread: Beginner with some problems

Hey All -

So I'm relatively new to SRP, and to straight razor shaving in general. I purchased a razor from a fellow Minnesotan in the classifieds, and it seems to be a pretty good quality razor for the price. It says "Le Grulet Hospita" on one side (I think the "L" has worn off of the engraving) and "Depose" on the reverse. See images here:

https://goo.gl/photos/T9HnyzkgxHwPAkTb7

It came "shave ready" from the seller, and he gives classes on how to hone, so I suspect it's actually pretty well honed already. That said, I'll probably refresh the hone as soon as I get my oxide crayon in the mail. Using the thumb test that Lynn shows in his honing youtube videos seems to indicate a good edge, and it definitely will take hair off my arm if I lightly run it against the grain, so I think the edge is good.

I have the following strop: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00 This is a pretty low-quality strop, and I bought it before I knew what I was doing. I strop the razor by running it over the black side (which seems coarser) 10-20 times, and then over the actual leather side (brown) 40-60 times. Both of the sides of the strop are leather, so I'm not sure what I should do first. I'm going to get a better quality strop, but this was probably good to get first, because I sliced into it a little bit when I was learning the pattern of stropping.

Anyway, to my problem. I am able to shave with my straight razor just fine. However, it doesn't get the shave quite as close as I would like. Namely, when I shave the sides of my cheeks from the sideburns to the jaw line, it's smooth if I run my hand (after the shave) down with the grain, but I can definitely feel hairs catching when I run my hand against the grain. On the chin and the jawline, I have a really hard time getting the hairs such that I can't feel them (really smooth). Often I have to shave once with the grain, once cross-grain, and once against the grain, and then go back and touch-up. This, obviously, leads to quite a bit of razor burn.

I'm thinking one of three things is a problem here. Possibly, it's my razor. I originally started with a gold dollar razor, but I was having these problems, and after realizing my mistake in purchasing such a cheap razor, I went with the Le Grulet one. Eventually, I'll buy a nice Dovo or other razor, but, for now, I'd like to perfect my technique before investing that amount of money in a high quality razor.

The next thing I was thinking is it could be the hone of the razor. As I stated, I think the razor is honed, based on the tests that I have done (and if I let my facial hair grow a bit, it does take it down to barely any stubble, but there is always some left over that I can't manage to get without burning my face worse than the sun).

Finally, the most likely culprit is my technique. I try to keep the angle of 1 spine width between the spine of the razor and my skin, but this is obviously hard to do around the chin area (which is why I seem to be having troubles possibly). I'm wondering if there is anything I might be able to do to help perfect this technique as I'm shaving (any tips or tricks on how YOU maybe learned to keep the angle correct). Also, I attached images showing my shaving angle, in general. I follow this procedure when I shave, too, so I don't think it's my prep:

1. Shower & wash face. (As I do this, I soak my badger brush in hot water in my scuttle)
2. Place a wet hot towel on my face for 30-45 seconds (about the time it takes for the heat to go away).
3. Lather my face with Catie's Bubbles shaving soap.
4. Rub in the shaving lather really well.
5. Strop my razor, allowing the soap to soak in.
6. Re-apply the hot towel for 30-45s.
7. Re-apply the soap (as some came off from the towel).
8. Shave, and as I do so, rinse the razor in hot water and rub off on a towel I have situated on the sink.
9. Apply lather and wood after shave. (After disinfecting cuts and splashing with cold water).

Thanks for any assistance you can give!

The first thing that comes to mind is skin stretching. This can help alot getting in closer, which will result in less passes, thus less irritation.

As far as being a beginner, the chase for a perfect BBS might not be in your best interest. Getting your stropping technique down is paramount at this stage, just after shaving technique. Go for close and comfortable.

Your pre-prep looks good. I never used a hot towel, but when I saw gssixgun's video on "the shave test", I do believe he wipes off all of the lather with the hot towel before reapplying.

It *could* be the honing, some are "keener" edges and some are more "comfortable". This is strictly a personal preference situation. I personally prefer my razors to be knocking on the door to a harsh shave.

The "rubbing off on a towel" does concern me a little. I usually use TP for better control and make sure you pinch the blade, with the spine pointing towards the palm and the TP wrapped around the spine. Usually 1 square folded in half twice. The edge should not cut into the TP whatsoever, it will dull the edge.

That's all I have for now, will update if I can think of anything else.

[edit]
I forgot to mention that I don't shave my chin. It is quite possibly the weakest skin in the world and breaks out like a prepubescent teen rubbing their face with fryer oil no matter what I do.

i would agree with dinnermints suggestions. i would also add that i have better luck shaving my chin from left to right across the bulb. i also have to settle for a DFS instead of BBS as a BBS as it always leads to bad razor rash.

Welcome to SRP from the east side of the river. [ST Paul]

Depending on what you think of relatively new is it seems you are doing well. Practice practice practice.

Nice razor. From the pictures I see relatively large scratches in the bevel. In pictures like that the bevel should be shiny. Unless I would hold it I don't know for sure but that makes me suspect of it being "shave ready".

You mentioned dinging your strop. Was it with this edge? Not good for the edge and a good example of why I wouldn't recomend a top of the line strop for a beginner and most of us don't have dads old one to use. A running thing between me and one son is that I many times use his starting something for a reason to give him my "old one" and I get a new one while he thinks that I give him old junk. Now that I am past raising my family and can afford top of the line I think so what. Sorry that I digress.

As far as your technique it comes down to practice. Read the advice here and develop your own technique. The internet is hard for me to understand what one persons definition of "light" is compared to mine. Use it as a starting point. You have to think a lot while learning but after a while you won't think about how far the spine is from your skin, your subconscious will do it.

Tim

First and foremost who honed it and leave CRoX alone till we figure out what you got, second stropping is the most important aspect of keeping a shave ready edge.
Next slow down and read a lot about starting out, just shave a portion of your face till your comfortable with the angles and pressure and your getting good results. The irratation is more than likely too much pressure combined with your edge. Look up mentors in your area and there are some good ones in Mn. Not to mention a couple pretty good guys with a hone.

I'll say it again slow down and quit looking for a perfect shave until you have perfected your technique, and that's months from now or maybe never, this ain't for everyone, especially if your wanting instant gratification. Good luck and search out mentors and one on one help. Tc

PM already sent but I'll say it here too. RandyDance is in St Paul and I am in Rochester. Either of us can help you sort this out. Help in person really is the most productive.

X2 on everything TC recommended. Judging by your pictures a couple things come to mind. First of all, and I mean no disrespect, you appear to be a young man so your skin will be more tender than us old guys. If you are shaving with the straight more than say two times a week try straight shaving a little less often and give your skin time to heal. I've been straight shaving for 45 years and my hide is tough enough to shave every day. You will get there too, just give it time. Last thing is your picture of shaving the chin. When you go around the bulb of your chin try clenching your lower lip between your teeth to stretch the skin. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by jwir3

Anyway, to my problem. I am able to shave with my straight razor just fine. However, it doesn't get the shave quite as close as I would like. Namely, when I shave the sides of my cheeks from the sideburns to the jaw line, it's smooth if I run my hand (after the shave) down with the grain, but I can definitely feel hairs catching when I run my hand against the grain.
Nothing unusual here.
On the chin and the jawline, I have a really hard time getting the hairs such that I can't feel them (really smooth). Often I have to shave once with the grain, once cross-grain, and once against the grain, and then go back and touch-up. This, obviously, leads to quite a bit of razor burn.
It shouldn't unless something is wrong ie razor or technique.

I'm thinking one of three things is a problem here. Possibly, it's my razor. I originally started with a gold dollar razor, but I was having these problems, and after realizing my mistake in purchasing such a cheap razor, I went with the Le Grulet one. Eventually, I'll buy a nice Dovo or other razor, but, for now, I'd like to perfect my technique before investing that amount of money in a high quality razor.
Le Grelot is a top shelf razor & should outshave any Chinese RSO or modern Dovo.


The next thing I was thinking is it could be the hone of the razor. As I stated, I think the razor is honed, based on the tests that I have done (and if I let my facial hair grow a bit, it does take it down to barely any stubble, but there is always some left over that I can't manage to get without burning my face worse than the sun).
Could be the honing but your angle looks too steep & if you are not getting the results you want the tendency is to add pressure = bad idea

Finally, the most likely culprit is my technique. I try to keep the angle of 1 spine width between the spine of the razor and my skin, but this is obviously hard to do around the chin area (which is why I seem to be having troubles possibly). I'm wondering if there is anything I might be able to do to help perfect this technique as I'm shaving (any tips or tricks on how YOU maybe learned to keep the angle correct). Also, I attached images showing my shaving angle, in general.
Try even flatter. Even poorly honed razor will be more comfortable at a near to flat angle. Don't be concerned if you feel the spine on your face. A properly honed razor will shave dead flat on the face.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Originally Posted by dinnermint

The first thing that comes to mind is skin stretching. This can help alot getting in closer, which will result in less passes, thus less irritation.

Ah, yeah, that's great advice. I sometimes forget to stretch the skin a bit, so that's definitely helpful.

Originally Posted by dinnermint

As far as being a beginner, the chase for a perfect BBS might not be in your best interest. Getting your stropping technique down is paramount at this stage, just after shaving technique. Go for close and comfortable.

Yeah, I'm not going for that - I'm really, at this stage, looking to get close to what I get with a cartridge razor. I know it's an art, and I'll have to perfect it, but I guess I tried to go "cold turkey" from my Mach3. I just really want to get good enough at it (for right now), that I can get a comparable shave with my straight razor.

Originally Posted by dinnermint

Your pre-prep looks good. I never used a hot towel, but when I saw gssixgun's video on "the shave test", I do believe he wipes off all of the lather with the hot towel before reapplying.

Yep, that's where I got the pre-prep technique from. I basically copied gssixgun to the letter.

Originally Posted by dinnermint

The "rubbing off on a towel" does concern me a little. I usually use TP for better control and make sure you pinch the blade, with the spine pointing towards the palm and the TP wrapped around the spine. Usually 1 square folded in half twice. The edge should not cut into the TP whatsoever, it will dull the edge.

So maybe I should explain this a bit more. I got this technique from Lynn's videos, but it probably got corrupted along the way somehow. Basically, when I go to clean off the shave soap/hair that's collected on the razor after a couple of swipes (or maybe even one long one), I run it under the hot water I have running (just the blade). Then, so the blade isn't dripping wet (maybe it should be, but I didn't think it should), I lightly dab it on the towel that I've folded into quarters on the sink. It's mostly to remove the excess water, but it could be affecting the edge of the blade I suppose. This is probably slightly sloppy technique - I'll try wiping it the way you recommend and see if that makes a difference.

Originally Posted by tintin

i would agree with dinnermints suggestions. i would also add that i have better luck shaving my chin from left to right across the bulb. i also have to settle for a DFS instead of BBS as a BBS as it always leads to bad razor rash.

Thanks. I will try shaving the chin cross-wise instead of trying to do multiple passes. I'm just getting my technique down, so I watched a lot of videos, and it looked like just about everyone I watched did it vertically to begin with, and then went left to right. As I am gaining more knowledge, I realize there isn't a "right" way to do it, so I have to settle for determining somewhat what works for me.

I am really just trying for something close to my cartridge razor for now. I don't expect it's going to be BBS. I also don't expect it to be completely rash-free or even nick-free right now. I'm really just looking to get the technique down, while at the same time having to use my mach3 less and less (if at all). I do have patience, and I know this could take months, I just want to make sure I'm not developing bad habits by doing something totally wrong.