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Thread: Erm... Help?

  1. #1
    Junior Member Jay Maxwell's Avatar
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    Default Erm... Help?

    Hi Guys,

    err....

    Ok, I have always loved the idea of shaving with a straight razor. I think it is the image, and the fact that I have to go and see a barber every week to get my beard kept in shape (cut-throat required) and love that feeling, and the fact that I don't need to shave for two days afterwards.

    Trouble is trying to find a decent barber. I know one, but he is not always there and the other people in the shop don't even know how to hold the damn thing!

    I didn't really think much further than the whole drag sharp thing over face... Until I got here. There looks to be much more to it than that however. I read the starters sticky thread and am not really much the wiser. I bought an antique german straight razor, and expected it to be sharp That should give you an inkling!

    Any information is welcome.
    Remember, I know nothing.
    Talk to me like an idiot cousin, and please explain to me what I need to start with and how to shave with a straight razor.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    If you have ready the intor thread AND the messages linked there, you already know it all :-).

    OK, you need a shave ready razor and a strop, plus some shave soap or cream, and a brush. The simplest way to get the razor, and the cheapest, is to post a 'WTB Starter razor' in the BST section. For soap, order some from Coleen, see the Vendor section, and you'll need to send her an email/PM for her price list.

    Brush: badger is best (silvertip better than best), but a $5 boar bristle brush is good enough.

    Strop: see Tony Miller (member here), and someone will post his web site address in a second. He also sells starter kits with all the above, if you can't be bothered to pick them up piecemeal.

    That is enough to get started shaving.

    Later on, you will want to refresh the edge on your razor. Again, the simplest way is to get a pasted strop from Tony (1.0/0.5); other peopel use a fine hone, of any of various sorts. You'll also see references to coarses hones, like the Norton 4/8k; these are for ebay restorations, or for other times when you don't already have a shave ready razor.

    When shaving, remember that preparation is important. Shave after a shower/bath, and consider using hot towels to steam your skin; some people like to do this with lather already on their beard, or with hair consitioner, etc.

    Apply your lather. Strop your razor; 60 times back and forth is probably optimal, on the smooth leather of your strop.

    Shave in smooth, careful strokes, with the blade almost parallel to your skin (max 30 degress); think of stroking your face with a feather, as you need a very light touch for best effect. This works best if you use your other hand to stretch the skin of your face so that the bristles stand up.

    Start with just your cheeks, then finish with some other implement. Don't worry if it doesn't catch everything, you'll get better with practice. Try not to cut yourself, but don't worry if you do. Most of use use either an alum block or a styptic pencil to deal with cuts.

    Eventually, you'll work up to two or three passes for a really smooth shave - with the grain, across the grain, and (optionally) against the grain.

    Now let's see who posted ahead of me :-).

  3. #3
    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Welcome,

    Thats asking a lot.

    Start only with a sharpened razor honed by someone with a clue what he is doing. Strop lightly on a taught strop to shape the edge. Use a light touch, its a razor for crying out loud! Light on the hone, strop, and on the face.

    Otherwise its pretty similar to any other way shaving.

    When you shave the angle you move the razor down your face is critical and you want to move the blade a little toward the point in a very careful "sawing" motion (see why the angle is important now?). Don't move the razor sideways though, directly sideways will cut through everything, skin included.

    Read up on the barbers manuals and look for videos to help you learn or atleast be able to understand the best questions to ask.

    Be wary of replys, they tend to sound like they often disagree with each other and may confuse you. Most of the replys you'll get are accurate, but are only telling a part of the answer or discussing it from another angle. Read the replys to your questions carefully.

    After you get the basics of shaving with a straight razor add soaps, creams, and a brush and learn how to use these too. They are a very nice addition.

    Don't try to learn everything at once.

    Don't go out and buy a bunch of stuff, a variety of strops, hones, razors, mugs, brushes, and creams will leave you confused and unsuccessful.

  4. #4
    Junior Member Jay Maxwell's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, thats a big help!
    BTW, the old razor I got, I'm wondering if it is any good and worth restoring.
    It has an acid etched 'Facharbeit Solingen' on the blade, and the number '20' a pair of crossed tennis rackets and then 'TENNIS Solingen' on the shoulder. Any ideas?

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    It is worth sending it out for evaluation and honing. Are there any visible chips in the edge?

  6. #6
    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
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    Smile Welcome, Jay

    Help, as requested.

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