Thread: Touched up Boker tugging me!!!!!

I do have a Norton 4000/8000 combo too.
Should I tape the spine when honing? The blade is old 1900’s

I had a similar problem with a razor I sold to someone. It was their stroping. If you have a linen and leather strop lay the strop on a flat surface. Do about 25 passes each direction on linen followed by 75 passes on leather. It straightened out his problem and may work for you.

Originally Posted by Ian6987

No I haven’t.
What would I look for an uneven edge? Would it stand out and be obvious?

I'd use a loupe and a good light source to check and see if the edge is chipped and/or bent. It should be obvious. If it is damaged you may need to reset the bevel and that is another ball game.

I hate to say it but being a real beginner you are up against it. It may be a better idea to sent it out to be honed.

Bob

Where do you live? May be a member near you that can help.

That’s a good idea I will try that thanks boushie.
I think the blade is set,it just needs a finishing touch as I can shave with it but it pulls slightly and doesn’t seem quite right.

I’m in the uk

I am assuming you have a hanging strop. If so most beginners don't hold it tight enough and use too much pressure causing a rolled edge.

Ok so pull the strop tight and don’t apply too much pressure I will try that too thanks.
I’m glad I joined this forum as I felt all alone in this haha

There should be info in library. You keep contact with Strop at all times rolling razor on spine.

Did the person who sold it to you use tape to hone? That may be a problem too. If they did and you didn’t it would be a fair amount of time on the 12k to get out to the edge while honing, well more than a refresh of an undamaged edge on a 12k should take. A single piece of electrical tape on the spine then back to the 12k with a light slurry and do laps up and down the hone until the water starts going up the hollow, evenly. Then walk the slurry off with water and squeegee the hone face with your finder a few times then do some really light strokes on the hone, like 10-20. The hone should not have any standing water on it when you finish. This part only takes a few laps, too much and the edge will get uncomfortable, not enough and it could have been a little more comfortable and a little sharper. 10-20 strokes is kind of my sweet spot for all the razors I’ve honed on the Naniwa 12k.

If that doesn’t bring it back or you’re seeing nicks or it’s uncomfortable then drop back to your 8k and do some laps on that, again looking to make sure you’re undercutting the water from heel to toe.

Another good trick to see where the hone is contacting the bevel is to ink it with a sharpie. Do a lap or two on the hone then look at it in the light. Without magnification you should be able to tell where you’re at.

Rotating the edge to try and reflect light off it is also tell tale sign of whether or not you have edge damage or your bevels aren’t quite set. If you see some glints keep honing until you can’t.

The Norton 4/8 is a very versatile combo. Lap light and often and that hone can remove steel very efficiently. If you have a diamond hone for lapping stones your pretty well set for hones. You could add a 1k at some point but the diamond hone will take care of chips and most damage, then a some time at the 4K you can reset a bevel with it, it will just take a while.

If you get frustrated walk away, no better time to screw up a razor than when your in a hurry or not relaxed.