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Thread: What size and point should I buy for my second straight razor?

  1. #1
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    Red face What size and point should I buy for my second straight razor?

    Hello,

    I joined this forum as a newbie in 2010 and started with a Murker 38c DE safety razor. It's been a revelation and I still use it almost daily.

    In late 2017 I bought a Ralf Aust 5/8 round point with plastic scales from Lynn's company. I've used it maybe twenty times at most. For some reason I neglected it for a long time and I just started using it again with my last two shaves.
    It blows away the DE razor.

    I want to use a straight from now on as much as possible. I'd like to upgrade to better quality scales and I'm open to the possibility of purchasing a different size and point.

    I've heard great things about Ralf Aust's razors and am inclined to buy another. I don't want to be a razor collector!
    I just want one more razor and that's it.

    Being that I've only done about twenty shaves with a straight, I'm sure I'm still classified as a beginner. I just do one pass downward so far. Then I clean up with the Murker DE.

    Any thoughts and recommendations on different sizes and points are greatly appreciated by this specialty group of guys!

    As a separate and less important question, feel free to comment on Ralf Aust or recommend another brand.

    Thanks in advance!!
    July10Newbie
    Last edited by July10newbie; 06-22-2021 at 02:22 AM. Reason: typo
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  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    Well most of the modern 5/8 hollow ground razors will shave very similarly. So if you are looking for more of the same, any quality modern 5/8 hollow will do the trick. However if you want something different, look at some different size amd grind of vintage razors. I say vintage because if that particular size and grind is not your cup of tea, you can likely resell it for similar money. Honest, you can already shave with a straight so buy something you think is super cool.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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  4. #3
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    If it was only one more .. I would say get a Vintage Sheffield wedge

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    Thank you, gentlemen for your ideas! Per your suggestions, I'm looking into vintage and I'm also open to buying new.

    I say that so that I can get replies from those who would recommend either new or vintage. Curiously JOB15, why do you recommend the Vintage Sheffield wedge specifically?

    I am intrigued by RezDog's idea of vintage because I can try it first and then resell if it's not right. I'd need to learn honing so I can resell it shave ready. I do have two stones but haven't used them but I'm off topic.

    My original question is what size and point type should I try next? I'd like to hear thoughts on what the differences between 6/8, 5/8 and 7/8 are and what are the factors that influence people's decision to choose those sizes.

    Thanks for the responses and please keep 'em coming!
    Last edited by July10newbie; 06-22-2021 at 07:44 AM. Reason: typo
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  6. #5
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by July10newbie View Post
    Thank you, gentlemen for your ideas! Per your suggestions, I'm looking into vintage and I'm also open to buying new.

    I say that so that I can get replies from those who would recommend either new or vintage. Curiously JOB15, why do you recommend the Vintage Sheffield wedge specifically?

    I am intrigued by RezDog's idea of vintage because I can try it first and then resell if it's not right. I'd need to learn honing so I can resell it shave ready. I do have two stones but haven't used them but I'm off topic.

    My original question is what size and point type should I try next? I'd like to hear thoughts on what the differences between 6/8, 5/8 and 7/8 are and what are the factors that influence people's decision to choose those sizes.

    Thanks for the responses and please keep 'em coming!
    Hi July10,
    I recommend Sheffield wedges because i work on them most days, restoring & selling, my link is below.
    That type of steel is no longer available and capable of really smooth edges, that mixed with the extra weight of a wedge gives the best type of shave in my opinion..
    thanks
    Joseph

  7. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Having 2 razors while learning to shave with a straight razor is a good idea. The most economical way to get a second razor is to buy a vintage straight razor that is in good condition and shave ready. It is generally considered that you need to get 100 shaves or 3 months of every day shave to become decent with a straight razor. Being new to the sport you will dull your razor faster than older hands so a second razor will serve you well while you send out the other to be honed.

    It is generally not recommended to learn to hone a straight razor while you are learning to shave with one. Both come with long steep learning curves and to tackle both at once can be a bit much. It can be done but you will be learning to shave with edges that are sub par while you learn to hone at the same time.

    Blade size, style of point and grind are all personal choices/preferences. I don't recall seeing barbers use anything bigger than a 5/8 full hollow blade. Barbers being business people that was all that was needed to get the job for the least amount of money spent. Personally I would not go any smaller than a 5/8 blade and prefer a 6/8 to 7/8 blade.

    All grinds will shave equally well if they have equally good edges. The feel of the shave will be different though. You'd have to try different grinds and sizes to see which are to your personal liking. For point styles the round point is the safest for beginners with the spike point offering more of an opportunity to cut yourself with the spike tip. The other styles are in between those two.

    You might want to try a vintage shave ready 6/8 in a heavier grind as your next razor purchase. The point style is up to you just remember the spike point can be a little unforgiving to the beginner.

    Bob
    Life is a terminal illness in the end

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    If you buy a decent straight razor that has good steel and has been honed properly to shave ready at the outset, you can go a long time before having to hone it again, especially if you have another razor or two with which you can alternate. The buy/sell/trade thread here often has really good bargains and you can be assured that the blade has been prepped and sharpened properly.

    You will need a good strop and know how to strop properly so that you don’t degrade the edge. That’s true no matter how many straights you own.

    A good finishing hone to refresh the edge when it starts to tug is also going to help preserve that edge. There are other methods, like fine abrasive sheets (check out the honing thread) that can help you delay spending money on stones until you are ready to go down that rabbit hole and still get sharp edges.
    David
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  11. #8
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    You have been given some great quality replys. Let a pro hone for you until you know how to shave is very important. If you are learning with a sub-par edge you may give up on the straight from the way it can leave your face feeling. And the touch-up stone is very good to have. It only takes 3 or 5 very light laps on the stone to bring your edge back. Re honing from bevel set to finish stone only needs done if you damage the edge. Not every 20 plus shaves as some think.

    I like a 13/16 wide blade, Half Hollow and french or Spanish point just for the looks. You need to try out many to find what is just right for you. So buy 50, not just one.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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  13. #9
    Senior Member blabbermouth whoever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by July10newbie View Post
    Hello,

    I joined this forum as a newbie in 2010 and started with a Murker 38c DE safety razor. It's been a revelation and I still use it almost daily.

    In late 2017 I bought a Ralf Aust 5/8 round point with plastic scales from Lynn's company. I've used it maybe twenty times at most. For some reason I neglected it for a long time and I just started using it again with my last two shaves.
    It blows away the DE razor.

    I want to use a straight from now on as much as possible. I'd like to upgrade to better quality scales and I'm open to the possibility of purchasing a different size and point.

    I've heard great things about Ralf Aust's razors and am inclined to buy another. I don't want to be a razor collector!
    I just want one more razor and that's it.

    Being that I've only done about twenty shaves with a straight, I'm sure I'm still classified as a beginner. I just do one pass downward so far. Then I clean up with the Murker DE.

    Any thoughts and recommendations on different sizes and points are greatly appreciated by this specialty group of guys!

    As a separate and less important question, feel free to comment on Ralf Aust or recommend another brand.

    Thanks in advance!!
    July10Newbie
    Get a custom.from Bruno
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    "if you ain't bleedin', you ain't learnin'" -me
    remember all, each thanks given will ... (virtual ego +1)

  14. #10
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    7/8 1/2 to full hollow with a smile is my preferred grind and width. I like a round heel and square or spike point. As far as getting a or a spike point goes it is really easy to mute the tip without changing the shape and still get the precision that type of point provides.

    Modern Razors:
    Ralf Aust
    Whacker
    Thiers Issard

    There are others but the 3 above are most consistently ground. The Thiers Issards can have wonky bevels but they take and hold a really nice edge for my face.

    Vintage razors:
    The list is long and there are far too many names to name.

    Sheffield:
    Wade and Butcher
    George Wostenholm
    Frederick Reynolds
    Mappin Bros
    Mappin and Webb
    Joseph Elliot

    There are many more, these will all be near wedge or 1/4 hollow.

    German Vintage:
    Dorko
    Thiers Issard
    Dovo
    Dubl Duck
    Ern
    J.A. Henckels
    Herder
    Puma

    Just to name a few. Most all will be some version of 3/4 to full hollow though there were a few heavier ground blades though much less available.

    Anything from Sweden is usually a good bet.

    Similar with American razors, most any vintage you find is well ground and there are quite a few choices for grinds as well.

    Condition and blade width drive prices quite a bit.

    If there are any that you’re looking at and are not sure if they are quality or not just post it here amd someone will let you know.

    Additionally, if you find one you like but aren’t able to find one for sale post it up in the market place what you’re looking for, chances are someone here has one and is willing to part with it.

    Honing costs vary a little, some honemeisters are better than others. Generally getting something from SRP will be shave ready, the bay, goodluck. Same goes for new razors generally speaking. I’ve only owned a couple with factory edges and they’re not acceptable.

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