Thread: Why 2 or 3 passes?

Hello Guys,

I was wondering why we always do 2 or 3 passes (wtg sideways and atg). Why not just once against the grain? The hair doesn’t notice that it has been cut down the first time or does it? Does anyone have a understandible explanation?

Guus

I don't have an explanation so much as a reason. I've tried it. When I try to start out going against the grain it hurts, it pulls, I get razor burn. It doesn't matter what kind of razor either, straight, DE, injector, or cartridge all them same. Lots of pain. When I do three passes, first with the grain, second across, then my third is against the grain I have nothing but the smoothest shave possible (for that razor). That my reason anyway, to avoid pain.

Originally Posted by Wildtim

I don't have an explanation so much as a reason. I've tried it. When I try to start out going against the grain it hurts, it pulls, I get razor burn. It doesn't matter what kind of razor either, straight, DE, injector, or cartridge all them same. Lots of pain. When I do three passes, first with the grain, second across, then my third is against the grain I have nothing but the smoothest shave possible (for that razor). That my reason anyway, to avoid pain.

Ditto

My thought is that multiple passes knocks down the hair a little at a time. When you go straight against the grain, the razor is engaging every single hair on your face. If you do multiple passes, some hairs are getting cut to skin level in each pass, so by the time you get to the against-the-grain pass, the razor is only seeing maybe one in every four whiskers...

Also, shaving from different directions helps get hairs that might avoid the razor if only shaved from one direction. This morning there was a hair on my neck that I noticed after my second pass. I tried several WTG strokes with no effect. The temptation in this situation is to use more pressure. Instead I tried another direction. Whack! No more hair, and I used only the lightest touch.

Just my 2 cents,
Josh

That could be it, but are there any other idea's?

Some people go against the grain on the first pass with no problems. They are few and far between though.

I go one pass atg if I don't give a rat's brainless side about the edge of the blade or it's supersharp and I'm super-prepped (ie DE or Dovo Shavette).
With a regular straight I usually don't even bother with atg.
I just go with then cross-grain.

I can go ATG on my cheeks straight off, but if I try it on my chin and neck I end up like this:


Give it a go though. If you can do one ATG pass with comfort then go for it!

I would be willing to bet the farm that the main reason is comfort though...

(runs away and hides the farm)

I generally prefer a 3 pass shave (WTG, XTG, ATG) it works like a charm everytime. BBS all the time w/o irritation.

I could possibly do just a 2 pass shave and it would be good but nothing beats the finish of the final ATG pass.

I understand that some folks have trouble with the ATG pass regardless of the type of blade. Fortunately for me that is not the case.

Also I would never try the ATG as my first pass it would be asking for trouble, since the idea here is to reduce your beard. Going with the grain is least aggressive and XTG more aggressive and ATG most aggressive. The more hair you have on your face the less aggresive you want to be to avoid burn. Hence the the ATG pass is always done at the end when most of hair has been removed.

I am doing something similar to what is described in the standardized textbook of barbering.

I now do one pass with the grain, as shown in the book. This is the once-over.
Usually, I am happy with this. However, I am still working on shaving the difficult areas without nicks.

Then, I rinse my hands (leaving my face alone), and do a quick stropping, and then come back and moisten my face with water and do some ATG.

Only if I start to feel like my face isn't lubricated will I add a little lather, otherwise, the second pass is just water.

Since I am a newbie, I am not going for BBS everywhere--but I have made a rule, I only shave with the str8. If I can't get it with the str8, it doesn't get shaved.

Unfortunately, this AM I got a little smug and careless, and now I have 2 nasty cuts. Nothing removed, and the blood stopped after 5 minutes, but that one under my lower lip *hurts*.

Be careful out there.

Paul