Thread: Planning to purchase my first razor

Hi folks.

I've been lurking here for quite a while -- about a year now -- and I've had it in mind to purchase a straight for some time now. Now that I have the disposable income necessary to make such a purchase, I'm ready to take the plunge. But I have a few questions.

First of all, I've decided that I'd like to buy a Thiers-Issard blade, most likely from classicshaving.com. I also plan to take advantage of Lynn's honing service to ensure that the razor I buy is shave-ready, something which the veterans here can't seem to stress enough.

There are three blades that I'm looking at, which vary nominally in price. Let me say first off that I do not consider this difference in price to be material for me; I have budgeted enough for any of the three. But I want to make sure I understand the differences. I've decided to go with a 5/8 blade, as the consensus seems to be that it is hard to go wrong with this size. If you disagree, I'd like to hear your opinion.

The first I'm considering is the T-I "Super Gnome", which is half-hollowed, made of carbon steel, and has a rounded blade. The second is the "Evide Sonnant Extra", which seems to be a fully-hollowed version of the same. The third is the "Sheffield Silver Steel", which is also fully hollowed, but made with silver steel instead of carbon steel, and which sports a square blade.

I have a few questions about the differences between these blades.

First, my impression from Dr. Moss' excellent tutorial, "The Straight Razor Shave", was that fully hollowed blades are the standard these days, and that because they are made with less metal they are easier to hone -- but also wear out more easily. I came away from the tutorial with no clear indication that one was better than the other, although I suppose as I currently lack the skill to hone a blade myself, a razor which is easier to sharpen is probably a better choice. What do you experienced shavers think?

Then there is the question of silver steel versus carbon steel. I have heard from many people that stainless steel is not ideal for a razor, and that carbon steel is better, but no one ever mentioned silver steel. Is it better than carbon steel, and if so, why? The Sheffield Silver Steel blade is about 25 dollars more expensive than the Evide Sonnant -- not a big deal -- but if that 25 dollars is entirely due to the trademark being applied in 24k gold and not due to the blade actually being better, I think I'd just as soon pass on the added expenditure.

Then there is the question of round versus square blade. I understand that a rounded blade is better for a beginner because it is easier to nick yourself with a square blade. On the other hand, a square blade is better in the hands of an expert because the corner allows better fine-detail work. Now, I am no expert, and comfortable with this fact, so if there is truly a large difference between the square and rounded blade in this respect perhaps a rounded blade would be better for me. I do not have any illusions, of course, about not cutting myself as I learn. I accept that I will. But if the frequency or severity of mistakes is reduced materially by a rounded blade, that would be a factor that would weigh into my decision. When I become an expert, I can always purchase a square blade. I have no doubt that I will eventually end up with a collection of different razors anyway, it seems to be inevitable among those of us with this particular hobby.

Here are, for the record, links to each razor at classicshaving.com:

The "Super Gnome"
http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...013/564293.htm

The "Evide Sonnant Extra"
http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...013/564256.htm

The Sheffield Silver Steel
http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...013/719620.htm

It is my intention, as I learn, to start with my cheeks and shave my chin and mustache initially by other means. I will be honest and say that I do not have a great deal of facial hair on my cheeks: my goatee growth is fairly dense and I enjoy wearing a mustache from time to time, but sideburns and similar I was not blessed with and a full beard continues to elude me. Does this seem like a prudent way of proceeding? Or will my relative lack of coverage mean that I am not getting good practice? Growth on my neck is fairly dense, especially on the right side, and my chin and lip growth is as dense or denser than average.

I also have questions about other pieces of shaving gear -- the strop, the brush, the mug, cream versus soap, etc -- but I will save those for another post. One decision at a time.

I look forward to becoming a part of this community and am excited to start!

Oh, and one other question. Shaving ought to be a ritual and should not be rushed, and I have every intention of treating it that way. I know that as I get better, the actual shave will take less time, but initially, how much time do you think I should budget in the mornings before work?

Thanks in advance for all your help. This site is a great resource.

After a year of lurking, you are already a member of the community.

Your selections are very good and you're getting the honing which is the best thing to do. Anyone of the razors are very solid choices. I tend to recommend the Super Gnome as it is a very good razor to learn this art. Silver steel is harder then high carbon steel. But all are great shavers. Stainless can be a trial for some, but many love it. I use all of these steels and it doesn't seem to make much difference for me shaving. I think high carbon is easier steel to learn honing.
For most, the choice boils down to asthetics. If one "speaks" to, you know it.

There is a learning curve as you have noticed by watching the threads. I would suggest doing your first shave when you have a lot of time to spend. You will find that 30 minutes is not unusual when you learning. 45 minutes is common on the first go round. Str8 shaving is pretty much all I remember doing now. I can shave comfortably, and efficiently in 10 minutes. But if I decided to really enjoy the ritual, I take about 20.

Regardless, I enjoy the entire aspect of str8 shaving.

Welcome aboard. You have a very good start with lurking and gaining knowledge. I did the same and the study of the forums helped me considerably. The world of straight shaving is a wonderful experience and you will be pleased. With your shave ready razor and knowledge you have gained all you need is experience.

bj

Thanks a lot for the tips, guys, and also the warm welcome. I think it sounds like the Sheffield Silver is a purchase for a future time; harder metal and a square blade seem to make it less friendly for a newbie. I think then that unless someone can think of a compelling reason for a newbie like me to prefer a half-hollowed blade that I will go with the Evide Sonnant Extra.

Thanks so much for your advice!