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Thread: Can't get the blade to cut
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02-21-2008, 12:44 AM #11
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02-21-2008, 12:56 AM #12
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- Feb 2008
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- Cambridge, MA
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Thanked: 0edit: Info is on kenrup's site. I can read, I promise.
Last edited by existentialhero7; 02-21-2008 at 01:02 AM.
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03-05-2008, 10:36 PM #13
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- Feb 2008
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Thanked: 0So I've had the razor back from Ken for a week or so now, and it's definitely significantly sharper than before; it definitely cuts the hairs it touches now, and I can almost hear the individual hairs popping when I get the angle right (it seems to need something a little more acute than 30 degrees). I still can't get it to shave properly, though. It seems that, regardless of the number of passes I do, I'm left with a uniform stubble a couple of millimeters deep on my cheeks and slightly deeper on my neck. I don't get any pulling, burn, or nicks from the razor.
Do any of you more experienced types have any idea what this might be about?
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03-06-2008, 12:05 AM #14
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- Jan 2008
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- Belgium
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Thanked: 1212First, let me assure you that results will only improve from the point where you are now. It's normal that your first "straight" shave won't be very close.
I'm going to sum up some points that may improve your results. Excuse me if there will be obvious things among them.
Here it goes:
1. Beard prep:
wash your face with a good facial soap, prior to doing anything else.
(you need to remove the natural oil that's on your beard hairs, otherwise the lathering won't be able the moisten them properly)
A good prep is at least 50% of a good shave.
Then spend some time swirling the lather on your face. The hairs need to be "massaged" a little.
Leave the lather on your face, while you strop.
2. Stropping:
Hold the strop reasonably taut. Place the razor flat on the canvas side of the strop. drag it over the canvas, spine leading. Turn it OVER THE SPINE and continue in the opposite direction, always with the spine leading. Do about 20 laps (going back and forth once = 1 lap) on the canvas. Keep the pressure low. Then do 40 laps on the leather side. Pressure should be just high enough to feel some drag from the razor on the strop.
3. Re-lather.
Make sure the lather is wet enough. It should be as wet as possible without running from your face. (Later you 'll learn how to make superb luxurious lather, but before you build the experience to do so it's better to err on the "too wet" side than to err on the "dry" side.
4. Shave.
(with the grain)
Place the razor flat on your skin, and lift the spine about two times its own thickness, till it starts to cut hairs. Again, when new to this, err on the "too flat" side than on the "too steep" side.
Do a first pass with the direction of the growth. Pressure should be as light as possible. The lesser the better. It is quite normal that this first pass doesn't leave a close result. If you feel confident enough you can do a second pass, going against the grain this time. Many people do a second pass ACROSS the grain and then a third pass against the grain. I think it's all about personal style and choice.
I always do 2 passes myself, one with, and one against the grain.
(against the grain)
Rinse your face with hot water.
Re-lather. I personally prefer brushing a light coat with lathery water on my face. That way I can see the actual removal of the hairs better.
With this pass, you 'll make short whisking strokes against the growing direction of the hairs. It's not all that difficult on most parts of the neck and cheeks, but the other parts of your beard area will be more challenging. Go slow, relax and keep your face wet. Apply more latter if you need to.
5. STOP.
don't shave over and over those same spots where the result is not as you wish. You 'll just mess up your face that way. Focus on the parts that are smooth. As you learn in the next months (and years) those baby smooth areas will expand with your growing expertise.
6. Aftercare.
Splash cold water on your face, to close the pores. While still wet, apply some of your favorite aftershave. (It stings less that way)
Enjoy a job well done.
If the razor starts loosing its sharpness, it will pull when shaving against the grain. While still early in the learning process, you're bound to dull a razor much sooner that an experienced shaver.
I hope some of this helps.
Have fun,
Bart.Last edited by Bart; 03-06-2008 at 12:09 AM.