Thread: *FIRST SHAVE WITH NEW DOVO -- NOWHERE CLOSE!

The theory was probably derived from experience. The edge is better when you strop just before the shave.
The reasoning is that since steel immediately starts to oxidise/rust from exposure to water and air then the stropping removes the oxidation.
The razors may also have leftover shaving soap, skin cells, oils etc from the prior shave that need to be removed.

Ok I think I understand what your trying to say. My question is if I strop
right after my shave doesn't that remove the rust for 24-48 hours that I will shave next and also remove any rust and soap, skin cells oils etc.

Gary

A little, I use the linen for this purpose myself, or strop on a towel.

I too bought a pre-honed Dovo that didn't shave as well as I had expected. Here is the thing, I had already been shaving with a Dubl Duck, Union Razor Cutlery Co. and Sanguine, all of which I got shaving quite nicely all on my own. So while I don't have near the honing and shaving esperience that many of the hone meisters here do, I believe I've held my own in knowing how to get a razor up to scratch.

NOW BEFORE YOU THROTTLE ME!

I think there might be one other factor to the pre-honed new razor not being what was expected. Every razor is personal to us and we have to find our own nitch in getting it to shave the way we want it. What works for one of our pros here might be too sharp or not sharp enough for someone else. I have no doubt that the pre-honed new razors are a darn sight better than straight out of the box but you should still work at achieving and maintaining your own edge at a level that works for you. Just my opinion based on my own experience.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

A little, I use the linen for this purpose myself, or strop on a towel.

LOL. My razor is well cleaned by a linen cloth before I put it on the strop.
Thanks anyways.Not in a sarcastic way & thank you for your replies.

Gary

Originally Posted by Arora Borealis

Ok I think I understand what your trying to say. My question is if I strop
right after my shave doesn't that remove the rust for 24-48 hours that I will shave next and also remove any rust and soap, skin cells oils etc.

Gary

No, it does not. The steel may start to oxidise again, immediately. Also, please remember that you are re-aligning the edge. Your best bet is to try it both ways and see which works better.
BTW, why the reluctance to strop just before each shave? It takes less than 90 seconds. No big deal for me.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

No, it does not. The steel may start to oxidise again, immediately. Also, please remember that you are re-aligning the edge. Your best bet is to try it both ways and see which works better.
BTW, why the reluctance to strop just before each shave? It takes less than 90 seconds. No big deal for me.

Ok will give it a shot. Thanks. Not reluctane Just a habit.

If you have a razor honed by Lynn, unless there was some goof, it is ready to shave.

But if you are pulling the razor down across your face with the heel going first, then you are going to have rotten results.

Try to make each pass with the toe slightly ahead of the heel as you move the razor. On your cheek, going down, angle the razor so the toe is below the heel, and then move it straight down your cheek that way, keeping the toe ahead of the heel.

Try shorter strokes if this feels unnatural. Short strokes work best for me if I have a questionable razor or a difficult spot on my face. Go with the grain only until you get the hang of it.

DO NOT PUSH INTO your face. The motion is more of a wiping motion.

Leading with the toe in easy areas (cheek, neck) gets you started. If the razor is properly honed, you should also be able to move it down exactly horizontal, as you will still be catching the back slope of the teeth.

Remember to keep the pressure light, and be sure your prep is good. Your whiskers should be exposed to warm water and soap for at least 2 minutes continuously, more is better. Post shower is best.

When I started out with a straight razor I found that just using the tip at the end of the razor of perhaps a half inch or less, at various experimental angles, with the grain of the whiskers, and against the grain, produced very close shaving results. Of course it would take too long to do a complete shave that way using such a tiny portion of the blade, but after a few minutes I gradually learned to more effectively use a larger portion of the blade.


Naturally, as has already been mentioned, before any shaving is done the razor must be properly honed and stropped. As a beginner I found it was all too easy to make a lot of not so obvious mistakes that produced a non-shave. Many of us must try to learn from books, videos, etc because few of us have access to in person guidance, and I would have learned effective technique much quicker from a live successful shaver.


My entry level razor was a 5/8 Dovo selling for about $50 when I got it a few years ago. I can get shaves with it as close as my Thiers-Issard and my Filarmonica costing about twice as much, but the low priced Dovo does require more effort and angle experimentation. My beard is probably average in terms of density and whisker toughness.

When I was a beginner I was amazed at how such very tiny and subtle technique flaws could result in a non-shave that just scraped the soap away, and a shave that was closer than anything I ever got with the most costly modern disposables, after I had learned the proper straight methods.