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Thread: Where to find equipment....
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04-08-2008, 03:45 AM #11
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Watertown, NY
- Posts
- 46
Thanked: 1Here are the razors I have so far, just some quick pics.
These are the three originally bought. Shur-edge, Frost, and un-named german, top to bottom.
Shur Edge
Frost
german
Dubl Duck. This one has a broken scale(you can kinda see it in the pic), quite a wobble, and a few nicks and chips in the blade.
Any advice on how to restore them would be greatly appreciated. And whether or not the Dubl Duck is even savable. Is there any way to repair existing scales? Or is the only option to create an entirely new set? The Shur-Edge is in the best condition, and seems like it would be the best for actual shaving, maybe? The Frost blade is only about 1.5-2" long.
thanks again, this is definitely a great site.
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04-08-2008, 03:56 AM #12
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Coral Springs, Fl
- Posts
- 517
Thanked: 44Hmm the sure edge looks good as does the random german one but the frost and wonderedge look pretty used up. I would send the sure edge to a honemiester to be honed and try learning on the random german. I would also keep the WE for collector purposes but I am not sure I would try to use that.
For how to restore read up and search the resto forum or get bill ellis's cd
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04-08-2008, 06:04 PM #13
Those look like really nice razors. As Chris said, the Wonderedge does look kinda bad, but definitely not past restoration.
Agreed on using the German. Looks VERY nice!
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04-08-2008, 06:45 PM #14
appleton
i got my razor and strop from appleton. i didn't trust the hone. so i am still looking for one of those.
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04-08-2008, 08:48 PM #15
i bet that german one there will shine up and give you great shaves. the top picture also looks fine (shuredge) but the pics are kinda bad angle to tell completely. clean them up and enjoy!
ya the DD does look in pretty bad shape. also the frost looks like it has a TON of hone wear, i don't know if its just the angle of the picture or not. but it looks kinda beat from the pic.
at least ya got 2 that could be cleaned up and used regularly!
~J
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04-08-2008, 09:10 PM #16
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04-08-2008, 10:26 PM #17
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Watertown, NY
- Posts
- 46
Thanked: 1Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the input. I'm working on cleaning up the German, and I have to wait for my next paycheck to pick up a hone, so I have to wait to try that out (or send it out to a honemeister). Is hand sanding the only way to get a mirror finish? I took off the rust with some mineral oil and steel wool.
I posted a thread in the restoration forum for the Duck, 'cause I'd really like to be able to make that, if not usable, at least shiny and new(er) looking.
And yes, the picture of the Frost is accurate to real life. What exactly is the problem with hone wear? And can it be repaired?
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04-09-2008, 12:03 AM #18
i am really against using steel wool. perhaps i've only held overly tough steel wool that was too gritty or something. but i've recieved ebay purchases which the seller used steel wool to make it look more silvery and shiney for his pictures. YES it does make it more silvery and shiney..however the scratch pattern it leaves in the metal makes it so very very hard to remove them enough to turn the blade into a mirror finish ever again.
maybe its just my perception.
~J
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04-09-2008, 12:58 AM #19
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Watertown, NY
- Posts
- 46
Thanked: 1I used a really nice, fine steel wool, and it took off the rust without scratching the blade at all.
EDIT: The blade does still have some pitting on it, though it's all away from the edge.Last edited by Sondheim; 04-09-2008 at 01:24 AM.
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04-09-2008, 03:12 PM #20
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Coral Springs, Fl
- Posts
- 517
Thanked: 44OK so on the frost... see how it is narrower at the tip than the rest of the blade.... Notice how the flat spot along the spine gets wider toward the tip. This means that someone honed it poorly for many many years and has worn the blade uneven. This makes the blade only fixable if you hone it till the blade is even and doing that would 1. take a ton of work and 2. put massive wear on the blade as a whole. This makes the blade a poor candidate for restoration. I would suggest you put it asside to experiment on should you ever want to experiment on any aspect of restoration.