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Thread: razor pull
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05-05-2008, 06:13 PM #11
Prep is a big deal. If you have time, shower and get your beard real wet and clean. It will soften. Shave soon out of shower. Lather your face, then strop so as to give the lather time to work. Lather again and shave.
Yes, a brand new razor is not shave ready by any means. Have one of the experienced people on the forum bring it up to shave ready for you. You will then know what a sharp razor is about.Last edited by geoffreyt; 05-05-2008 at 06:16 PM.
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05-05-2008, 06:25 PM #12
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Thanked: 0Thanks so much for all your advise Lee. I'm truly grateful. There is absolutely NO WAY I'll ever go back to safety razors, so I'll keep at it, as you say. One more thing, I purchased a leather strop with my razor. Do I use the red side too, or just the smoother pinkish side? It may seem a silly question, but I'd rather look daft than not ever find out.
Thanks,
Colin.
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05-05-2008, 06:34 PM #13
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Thanked: 335Colin,
I noticed that you said you honed the razor. Since I am an edged tool user (carpenter) and my experience in sharpening my tools goes way back, I thought that honing a razor would be child's play. Nope, not for this kid! While I didn't destroy anything, I also didn't make my razors shaving sharp either. It is possible that your razor's edge may need further attention, from a bona fide honer, or from your further refined techniques before it is truly a shave ready tool. I can hone my own now, but it has taken a while to learn that razor-easy differs greatly from leaning on a dull plane iron.
Also, I think the irritation and burn is a reminder for the tyro that the razor is a really sharp tool and one which does not ask for, but rather demands, the user's complete attention and respect.
good luck,
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05-05-2008, 06:49 PM #14
If I shave with my straight the way I used to shave with my disposable cartidges, my straight will pull on hair where the throwaway will not. The straight razor requires more accuracy regarding making contact with your hair because the straight gives you more control (more options to succeed, more opportunities to fail)
My razor rarely pulls on my hair now, although it often did when I first started. Through trial and error, and partly process of elimination from the lists in the posts above, I discovered my stropping was occasionally dulling the razor to a degree, but the biggest culprit for my pulling was a combination of blade angle, angle of direction, and skin-stretching. I would be surprised if it is exactly the same for you, because there are just too many factors to eliminate all at once in troubleshooting a good shave. You would do very well to go to one of the meetups and let someone watch you shave, prep, and strop and give you pointers.
I have also found that at times I will improve in one area at the expense of forgetting another area. For example, when I began to concentrate on getting my blade angle correct, I would subconciously regress to applying more pressure to the blade. Because of this effect (which I call the simplistic idealist I'll-have-a-great-shave-today-regardless-of-my-lack-of-practice thinking) I would catch myself doing the same silly things over and over, but to a lesser and lesser degree. Hence, practice, practice, practice!
Where did you obtain pinkish leather? Now that's daft!Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage
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05-05-2008, 06:54 PM #15
"HHT" stands for Hanging Hair Test. There are many things written in this forum as well as some examples on Youtube. It's one of several tests that can be used to check a razor's sharpness, but does NOT ensure that a razor passing the HHT is sharp enough to shave. I can get edges to pass the HHT off of my Shapton 2000 grit ceramic on glass stone...........I wouldn't want to shave with an edge off that stone.
Sorry to say it's quite likely you did not bring your razor to shaving sharp by "taking the bull by the horns" this early on and trying to hone it yourself. "Damage"? Unless you nicked or chipped the edge, I doubt you damaged the edge but may have dulled it. Factory edges are almost never shaving sharp anyway, so your involvement may have had little detrimental effect. Yes, prep is huge with any wet shaving method.
Smooth? A razor should not pull during the shave. In my opinion (IMO), the phrase "wiping whiskers off the face" may be used too often is situations where it shouldn't. I'm not saying a razor couldn't get sharp enough to feel like it's wiping away whiskers but to me that would mean literally no friction and no resistance of any kind. My razors cut/slice whiskers off my face very easily with virtually no resistance; my razors don't literally wipe whiskers off my face and I doubt most people's straight razors do. Or their definition of "wiping" is different than mine. I tend to be a literal person rather than figurative.
After the shave, your face should be as smooth as you want it to be, including being so smooth when wet, it has the sensation of squeeking. Smooth as glass. As a rule, such a final smoothness requires more than one pass.
Almost definitely a new razor needs to be honed and all razors need to be stropped prior to each shave.
Last edited by ChrisL; 05-05-2008 at 06:56 PM.
"Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
"Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith
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05-05-2008, 07:31 PM #16
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Thanked: 369I've brought this up before, long time ago, but there are degrees to the HHT.
For instance: C, C+, B-, B, B+, A-, A, A+ are all passing grades in many schools. But a C and an A+ are two very different grades.
I've found the same holds true for the HHT. While your razor may pass the HHT, it may be doing so with less than an A+. And in that case the shaving quality will be commensurate.
Just something to consider.
Scott
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05-05-2008, 07:54 PM #17
I would agree. I have very fine blond hair on my head. Ultra fine. So fine that for the first six months of trying to hone my own razors, I could get edges that would pass HHT easily with my wife's hairs (not coarse but less fine than mine) but could NOT no matter what I tried, use my own hairs to pass the HHT. Keep in mind these edges were still shaveable edges. Not dreamy, but virtually no to no irritation.
A few months back, an older barber was nice enough to just give me a few older razors, one of which is a sweet Dubl Duck Dwarf spike point. I stropped it up when I got it from him and wow, my own hair....."tink" passed the HHT. It became my "reference razor".
Since then, I don't stop tuning an edge (chromium oxide has sure helped with this) until using my own hair passes the HHT easily.
Also, speaking to the degrees of HHT, a hair pressed on the edge that bends and then cuts to me is not as sharp as an edge that severs the hair in two with no hesitation, bending, resistance, etc.
This sounds crazy, but now when my edges are "there", I can take one of my ultra-fine hairs and when one is touched to the razor's edge, the hair almost explodes in half. Each half of the cut hair actually lands a small distance away from the edge rather than falls at the foot of the razor. It's really cool. No hesitation, no bending, no futzing with the hair to only have a 1/4" from the root end hit the edge, etc.
I still believe what some have said: An edge that does not pass the HHT or is polished past the point of passing the HHT can be a great shaving edge. With that said, I have yet to have a shave ready razor of my own NOT pass the HHT easily.
Chris L"Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
"Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith
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05-06-2008, 08:32 AM #18
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Thanked: 0razor pull
Thanks so much everyone. This is the first time in my life that I have been in a forum, and you have all been so kind. I've learned so much from your replies in such a short space of time. You have all doubtless saved me from pain and bleeding, and I'm very grateful for that.
I guess this is a deal of knowledge and a whole lot of personal experimentation. I have more than one blade now, and so can experiment with one of them, leaving the other as my more sure thing. It's odd, the reaction that people have to straight razor shaving. When all sixty colleagues found out that I had purchased one, and was using it, they thought I was insane. Strangely, they all want to watch me use one. The women say it makes their blood run cold, but that they'd have to watch because its just so damn masculine, and the men all say its something they have a complete fascination for and they'd love to try it. Either way its something i love and will never look back.
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05-07-2008, 02:37 AM #19
Taking any stray hair that falls from my head or gives way with light encouragement and using it to keep playing with the HHT on my razor edges has become a guilty pleasure. After doing just that tonight after a pre-stropping (before the final stropping tomorrow morning on the razor I've picked to shave with) and performing an HHT, I realized that really, only one half of the hair jumps away from the razor....I'm holding the other half!
This is great to hear, Colin. I personally look forward to your contributions here and sharing your experiences. 60 colleagues? How did they all find out you're shaving this way now?
Chris L"Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
"Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith