Results 1 to 5 of 5
Thread: Japanese Razor Restoration
-
05-12-2008, 07:03 PM #1
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0Japanese Razor Restoration
hey everyone,
I was looking into straight razor shaving and I became a fan of the Japanese straight razor. Anyways, I got my hands on an antique japanese razor with some minor light oxidation on the blade. I've read around the forum on rust remove and have come across electrolysis which sounds way to risky, and MAAS and its ilk. MAAS seems like the best bet. My questions here are as follows:
1 - Is the steel of japanese razors different from the your traditional folding straight edges, and if so what special treatment do they need? Is MAAS ok?
2 - Are there any specific preparations to be made before or after the use of the rust remover?
3 - this is my first razor restoration so any tips, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I've attached some pictures of the razor to the thread. As you can see, most of the oxidation is on one side.
Thanks for you time guys,
Proud to be.
-
05-12-2008, 11:38 PM #2
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209May I suggest that you post this question in the forum called
The Workshop. You will receive much more of a response.Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
-
05-12-2008, 11:50 PM #3
Best bet is to try to research it. Try to find out of it is white, blue, or stainless steel. If it is really old chances are is that it is White #1 or #2, which means that is basically carbon and iron. If it is a "sandwiched" steel it is a stronger steel wrapped in wrought iron. The wrought iron, in the case of good knife makers, comes from old anchors and chains from navy vessels.
Overall the best bet is to start with light rust removal techniques. Go to a auto parts store or a WalMart and pick up some 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Start off with the 1000. It will take some elbow grease, but it is the safest route to go. Once most of the color of the rust is gone go up to the 2000 grit. There will probably be some pitting involved, but if you just want to shave with it and not make it a collector's piece, aesthetics do not matter.
Once you find the finish on it acceptable send it off to one of the honing experts on the forums here. Lynn Abrams(heads this site) does some amazing work and is pretty cheap considering the level of work he does. Others are also really good at honing, but do your research
-
05-13-2008, 02:41 AM #4
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0thanks for the quick response guys, I'll repost it in workshop. Will white and blue steel react negatively to chemical cleaners like MAAS?
-
05-13-2008, 02:50 AM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Posts
- 1,292
Thanked: 150No. Any steel can be cleaned in a similar fashion.