Thread: technique

I will not get my straight back for a few more weeks, it was sent to Lynn Abrams for sharpening. Please describe the proper shave techniqe with a straight so when I get the razor back I can start off on the right foot. I don't really know which was my grain goes so I typically use my double edges going from the roof towards the floor at a 30 degree angle to my face.

Originally Posted by jbcohen

I will not get my straight back for a few more weeks, it was sent to Lynn Abrams for sharpening. Please describe the proper shave techniqe with a straight so when I get the razor back I can start off on the right foot. I don't really know which was my grain goes so I typically use my double edges going from the roof towards the floor at a 30 degree angle to my face.

A video might be best - Check out Lynn's video about how to shave

Determining which way your hair grows is relatively easy most of the time (notice all the qualifiers in that statement?!)

Rub with your hand and the direction that has the MOST drag is against the grain. You will find that your hair likely grows in different directions on different parts of your face. Particularly the neck seems to grow in a different direction on most folks. As for shaving technique, there is plenty of You Tube fodder out there, but I would second hoglahoo's suggestion. Lynn's DVD is packed with information. Above all else, take your time. Pay close attention to prep and I would suggest stropping with a butter knife just to get the hang of it. The butter knife won't give the same feedback as a razor, but you will get used to trying to maintain proper tension on the strop while simultaneously paying attention to how you are moving a blade along the strop. I found that the shave itself was more forgiving than I thought it would be. As long as you have a pretty close angle (between 20-30 degrees) and a LIGHT TOUCH you will be able to get the hair off your face even if not perfectly. I would suggest leaving the Across the grain pass (XTG) for later in your shaving journey. Hope this helps!

Don't shave for 4 days.

Go to mirror.

See which directions your whiskers grow.

Shave 'em off!

I am a newbie too shaving with a straight for about 6 weeks or so. The first two weeks I kept my trusty Merkur slant loaded and at the ready in case I couldn't get the troublesome areas like the chin & mustache with the straight.

Once I got a truly shave ready razor from a honemiester who lucky for me lives nearby I was able to put my DE in the cabinet and I haven't needed it since. At this stage of the game I still feel awkward manipulating the razor in some directions so I go in directions in which I feel coordinated.

Week by week my technique is improving as I am sure yours will as well. The important thing is I am as Lynn always suggests having fun ...... and getting a nice clean shave as well. Enjoy your shave!

Make your lather with the least amount of water you can, adding a few drops as needed to make it smooth and slick rather than sticky.

Keep the razor's spine about 1.5 spine widths up off of your face. (adjust this a few degrees either way to maximize comfort)

Shave in the direction of the hair growth first, making short repetitive strokes if it is uncomfortable to do long smooth strokes.

Pull the skin taught in the area you intend to shave.

Get close enough to the mirror so that you can actually see what the razor is doing.

Make smooth yet firm arm/hand movements.

If the lather is drying out, relather, as soon as the shave becomes uncomfortable.

Rinse off with cool water.

CLEAN THE RAZOR!

(just a quick overview of good habits when straight shaving)

I've got about 15 straight shaves under my belt (well, not literally under my belt, just on my face), and I would say one of the most important aspects of straight shaving, compared to shaving with a double-edge and especially with a multi-bladed abomination, is the importance of skin-stretching. I didn't stretch my skin with a DE and I was able to get a pretty decent shave. But with a straight, the difference between stretching and not stretching is pretty significant. Stretching the skin will not only give you a much closer shave, but a far more comfortable one as well, especially in the neck area.

As for just starting out:

1. After lathering up, lay the blade flat against your face
2. Slowly lift the spine off your face as you move the razor downwards until you feel the edge start to cut your beard. That's the angle you want to try to maintain.
3. Keep the pressure very light!
4. Stick with one with-the-grain stroke for your first time out, even if it means leaving more stubble than you like.
5. Try to get the hang of the proper razor grip...it feels awkward at first, but it very quickly becomes very natural and it really is the best way to maintain a good, stable grip.

Good luck!

You can help the cutting action quite a bit by using a cutting angle as well. this is different from the Shaving Angle in that it's not what angle the blade is in relation to your face, but what angle the edge is facing in relation to the direction it is moving. Simply put, lead with the tip slightly ahead of the rest of the razor as if you were slicing bread. This will reduce the effort needed which means less pressure, resulting in greater comfort..

X

Thanks, xman! That's a new one on me...I'll give it a shot!

Originally Posted by DaveF

[*]After lathering up, lay the blade flat against your face

Honestly, I find that when laying the blade flat/motionless on the skin, it is much easier to cut yourself. Personally, I would try to make it all one sweeping motion. Start the downward motion just before touching the skin. I've had really good results from this.

Good luck!