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06-04-2008, 09:54 AM #11
Well, its no problem. A lot of people don't respect my comments, your always free to do as you please.
I won't bother commenting on your question about using an x pattern on a Col. Conk hone. Its far to low a grit to make any difference.
Good luck!
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06-04-2008, 10:00 AM #12
IIRC Col Conk hones are Arkansas stones which are really slooooooooow hones. It might take you ages. As for the Zeepk strop: Zeepk razors have a very bad reputation, don't know about the strops however. They wouldn't be my first choice.
Don't waste your time on poor quality equipment. Get it honed professionally or if you're adamant to DIY get a 4K/8K Norton hone and a Tony Miller beginners' strop.Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.
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06-04-2008, 02:28 PM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Posts
- 3,763
Thanked: 735I don't want to make this into a technical scope beyond my reach, I just want to learn as I go. I am a poor college student just making it by. I want to be able to hone on my own.
That's cool ,and fun.
However, honing is actually pretty simple. The angle is already set for you: keep the spine and the edge flat on the hone and you're pretty safe to have at it.
Since it sounds as if your current hone is too fine to make much headway on a antique store find you probably want something with a bit more grit to it. You can get a Norton 4/8K, as mentioned, which should serve you well, but will require lapping, or flattening prior to using it.
If you want to go the cheap route (perfect for starving college students) to honing your blade: get a flat piece of glass and some sandpaper 400, 600, 1200 grits (higher grits can be found at auto stores, if you can find 3000, go get some of that too). That should set you back all of about $3. Tape the sandpaper really tight and flat on the glass, and start honing away. Try wetting the sandpaper for easier glide. And at this stage, don't just whisper the blade across with the lightest of touches, as you are trying to actually remove some metal at this point, not go for a shaving edge. Hit up the 400 grit until the edge bevel looks uniformly 400grit flat finished. The edge may have some curve to it, and so you may have to apply pressure to different portions of the blade to set the bevel all along the edge (i.e.- if while honing it flat, only the center portion of the blade is getting sanded, then you may want to press down a bit on the toe to hone the toe of the blade, and similarly the heel...)Then move up to the600, then 1200 & 3000 if you have it. By this point you should have established a bevel, a foundation for a shaving edge, but it is still pretty rough, as it was set using a 1200/3000grit. So now move on to your Conk stone, and work it over on that for quite a while until the edge is gleaming. Try a few HHT's, and see how it improves.
As a final touch, some crome oxide on a simple leather belt strop can put a very fine finish on an edge. You can get cheap chrome oxide from Rockler woodworking(~ $7). Actually, just rub the green stick on the backside of your Zeepk strop, and that should work pretty good for you.
I would reccommend that you invest $30 in a Tony Miller starter strop. It will be so much nicer, I'm sure of it without even seeing the Zeepk product.
In conclusion: you have an antique store razor that you didn't pay out $200 for (I hope you didn't at any rate!), so it is simply a piece of metal you want to put an edge on. I salute your desire to hone on your own. I started honing the day I got my first razor, as the "shave-ready" edge from the vendor was severely lacking. Putting an edge on a razor yourself is quite gratifying. Go for it!
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Seraphim For This Useful Post:
shadowfarside (06-06-2008), tjiscooler (06-06-2008)
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06-04-2008, 04:53 PM #14
As Adam on Mythbusters is wont to say "well theres your problem right there!"
The Conk hone is to coarse to get a razor to a comfortable level of sharpness. If you wan to learn to hong you need the right tools or you will never have success.
The same holds true for the Zeepak strop. They are not known for their quality products and indeed the whole of Pakistan is known for poor quality leather goods. Again a better quality product will give you a chance to get the results you desire.
I'd also like to know how you Determined that the pitting on your razor doesn't extend to the edge. I personally use a microscope to visually check, but there are various tactile tests that are of similar sensitivity. Even a bump invisible to the naked eye will be felt on your face. I always polish off any tarnish and minor pitting to make it easier to examine the blade before sharpening (and incidentally give future rust a harder time getting a foothold.)
I don't want to sound overly critical but these things might be a few that are standing between you and the success you deserve.
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06-04-2008, 06:13 PM #15
I'll cut the discussion down to size. I'll take care or your razor for free. Just Send me your razor, I will even pay for the return shipping. I will evaluate it for you and if I think it could be a shaver I'll hone it up for you and ship it back to you. Send me a PM if you are interested.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Kenrup For This Useful Post:
shadowfarside (06-06-2008)
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06-04-2008, 06:38 PM #16
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Belgium
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- 1,872
Thanked: 1212Shadowfarside,
You seem to have decided for yourself that you are a "straightrazorguy", which is fine. You have come to a place that joins "straightrazorguys", and that surely is the wise thing to do. But, in spite of what you think, you have NOT done your research before getting everything you need. At least, not very well. You would have run like hell from everything carrying the brandname "Zeepk" and you wouldn't have bought a Col.Conk hone for trying to hone a razor that only an experienced straightrazorguy could determine to be salvageable or not.
So where must we, that are all eager to help out a fellow straightrazorguy, start? Perhaps with explaining that, shaving succesfully with a straight is a chain with many shackles: a sound blade, honed with skill on hones (plural) suited for the job, stropped with competence, moved accross a well-studied face, with exercised pressure, exact angle, well-chosen direction, cutting carefully prepared whiskers?
No one can learn those skills all at once, and if you start off with equipement that spells disaster, peculiarly in inexperienced hands, than "frustration" indeed lies ahead of you.
IF you are a straightrazorguy, it's time to swallow a bit of pride and follow AFDavis' advice.
I'm in Europe, if you like, you can send that razor to me, and I will hone it for you, if it is honeworthy. If not I 'll send you a superb and shaveready razor back. I won't ask more than the 15$ I payed for it myself when I found it (in dull state) on Ebay. That's the least I can do for a fellow straightrazorguy on a studentsbudget, having a bit of a rough start.
If you are in the USA, perhaps someone living more nearby will come forward and make you a similar offer.
Good luck,
Bart.Last edited by Bart; 06-04-2008 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Apparently Kenrup was slightly ahead of me :-)...
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06-04-2008, 07:01 PM #17
I think it's easy to decide to have a go and come unstuck. Two examples - a customer bought a not-shave-ready wedge from me, saying he would hone it. Emailed me a week or so later bursting with pride saying he now had a great edge, was two stone lighter and also now had arms like legs and shoulders that made Mr. Schwarzenneger's look like a pretzel. He had of course used a 12k hone all the way through and about 3,000 laps!
Next was one poor guy who sent me two razors that he liked the look of and got off ebite. One had two cracks in the blade and the other a frown the likes of which I have never seen - like 1/2 the blade depth.
Both these guys suffered from trying to (a) do something with no training and (b) buy something they didn't look into. Yet both now shave with straights and count the cost of learning as well spent. It's easy to forget that newbies don't know how to strop, hone, shave or lather their face - if they did, they wouldn't ask. And then where would we be?
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06-05-2008, 11:31 AM #18
+1, Along with the above situations, I often get the razor from guys who can sharpen a knife so it can shave. The razor often times was sharpened with a knife sharpener. It is amazing how much steel I have to take off the edge to make a good bevel. They too chalk it up to the learning curve. When newbies ask questions it is often from the place of frustration. If we recognize this and understand this and then respond with this in mind, we will show our true colors and be to them what SRP is intended to be.
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06-05-2008, 01:15 PM #19
There are dozens of members here at any given time willing to help or answer questions you may have - feel free to ask them and receive honest answers! As far as I understand it, you're part of SRP as soon as you sign up, and we're glad to have you aboard
In my opinion, "try until I get it right" is the best method for improving your straight razor shaving.Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage
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06-06-2008, 01:02 PM #20
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Location
- Louisville, KY
- Posts
- 3
Thanked: 0Thanks to Kenrup, I will have my problem solved soon. I respect all of you for being helpful in your own way and sharing your opinions to me (yes all, I appreciate all shared opinions, but do not respect all of them. It helps me by supplying me an opinion of my own). I was about to go out and buy the sandpaper, but this offer should help me for now. I will probably use that information for the future though Seraohim.