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  1. #21
    JAS eTea, LLC netsurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybrok View Post

    I remember seeing some Proraso.
    I have sensitive skin and do not have a problem with Proraso but some folks with sensitive skin do experience problems. YMMV

  2. #22
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    Id recommend putting up a post in the BST forum for a starter kit. If you buy new the razors will start at about 60 and go up from there. This of course doesn't include the strop, brush or soap. You will need a strop with your razor. The hones can wait for a while though. Some people hone their razors as soon as every 15 shaves. Some people can wait up to 150+. With some paste and a strop or flat surface its possible to go over a year without honing. I'd really comes down to the amount of abuse the razor is taking. Best bet would be to start with a razor and strop, and invest in hones when your ready for it.

  3. #23
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    I just purchased a decent starter kit from Kenrup - arriving Monday.
    Go check out his thread in the Vendor's forum. I don't know if he'll ship to Canada, but I think it's probably worth a shot.

  4. #24
    Member HarrisonFan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybrok View Post
    All I have at the moment is a basic kitchen knives sharpening stones. I don't even know the grits (it's a dual).

    Good sharpening stones are expensive, so I want to optimize it and buy something for my kitchen knives and razor. I could try sandpaper too, great to sharpen convex edges. I guess a paper on a flat board would do the trick.

    I just started a thread looking for advice on cheap honing alternatives, it might help you too. You should be able to find it here: http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...-possible.html

  5. #25
    Senior Member cybrok's Avatar
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    It's a start: I just got a wilkinson swords brush and 2 soaps, one williams and one Proraso. I will be able to improve my lathe technique before I get a straight.


    By the way, are WS brushes made of animal bristles or is it synthetic?
    Last edited by cybrok; 06-14-2008 at 05:42 PM.

  6. #26
    The original Skolor and Gentileman. gugi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybrok View Post
    Is 8000 enough or I also need a 12000?
    Well, it really depends on the combination of your skills, face, and razor. You certainly shouldn't worry about this when you start.

    Quote Originally Posted by cybrok View Post
    Good sharpening stones are expensive, so I want to optimize it and buy something for my kitchen knives and razor. I could try sandpaper too, great to sharpen convex edges. I guess a paper on a flat board would do the trick.
    I don't know how sharp you like your knives, but even 4000 grit seems like an overkill for a knife. Don't know about paper on flat surface as I don't use that. But yes high-grit stones are usually expensive. There are always the cheap alternatives though - slipstones barber hones and pastes - there are members who use these, so there is no reason that you can't go with them if money is big concern.

    Don't know about the brushes - you should be able to tell by looking at the bristles.

  7. #27
    Senior Member cybrok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gugi View Post
    I don't know how sharp you like your knives, but even 4000 grit seems like an overkill for a knife.
    For I normal knife I agree. My American/European knives as well as EDC or other bushcraft knives (well, everything that do not have a convex edge) is sharpened with a normal Norton dual bench stone like this one.

    But Japanese knives, like razors, are a whole different thing.



    For those wondering about the sandpaper, here's an example:
    YouTube - Sharpening a convex knife - dull to shaving sharp


    EDIT: WOW, youtube vids gets in the post automatically on this forum? Sweet.

  • #28
    Member marklar's Avatar
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    I am a big beliver in shaving soaps, even if it is the cheap Wilkensen's drug store soap, its been around a long time and its just a work horse... It conditions my skin better than spray, keeps my face softer and i swear that even with a mach III blade your blades will last longer than with can lather.

    A good razor to start with is the Wapi's.

    Mike Ratcliff sells them and hones them up, a great starter razor for cheap

    Straight Razors

    Also Ken Rup sells the Wapi (i think) as well as one called the double arrow. I hear these are both great starter razors (i have the Wapi) Ken sells these with a starter strop that looks great. You will need to email him directly for exactally what he has, but he is a great communicator and will get back to you (at least thats been my experiance).

    RupRazor - Quality Craftsmanship

    I like the wilkensons soap, i like the proraso soap, but the wilkensens is probably more mild. In my experiance (limited) it depends on what allergies you have. for example if you have had a skin allergy test and got big red bumps from eucolyptus, then avoid things w/ stuff like that in it.

    the buy/sell/trade forum is great, but people jump on the good ones REALLY quick. so unless your patient, i'd just buy one from one of these two guys, both are great.

  • #29
    Member Ockham's razor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cybrok View Post
    It's a start: I just got a wilkinson swords brush and 2 soaps, one williams and one Proraso. I will be able to improve my lathe technique before I get a straight.

    By the way, are WS brushes made of animal bristles or is it synthetic?
    Get the Proraso white tub - Green tea and Aloes - for sensitive skin. It's the best thing I have found right now for me. The Green one gives me irritation if I use it a couple time in a row (too much menthol, eucalyptus and camphor...). The White one has some menthol in it but it is much milder. The cooling effect is nice even if it is not as strong as the green stuff.

    Bonne chance!

  • #30
    Senior Member cybrok's Avatar
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    I found a place selling white proraso the week after I bought the green

    Also, I just ordered a noob kit (double arrow) from Kenrup. I read that the scales are cheap, but I was able to rehandle a knife so I guess I could rehandle a razor.

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