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  1. #1
    Senior Member toolarts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Hmmmmmm I like that idea Toolarts, makes sense... Is there a possible irritation factor with it like with the WD-40????
    When I use a razor, I always wipe it down and strop it before shaving. By the time I finish that, there isn't much oil left on the razor. I've never gotten any irritation that I know of from this oil. I think it is pretty neutral.

    WD 40 is a water displacing chemical. Great for electronics, etc., but as a lubricant it is kind of temporary. It also has some fairly nasty solvents.

    I use it for killing yellow jacket and hornet nests. A good squirt of WD-40 and the nest is a goner, and the bees can't even fly at you--but they do shake their fists and cuss at you as they are dying!

    Paul
    Last edited by toolarts; 06-19-2008 at 06:07 PM. Reason: typo

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    Thread Killer shuredgefan's Avatar
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    Sewing oil seems like a good idea!

    As I'm a Super Cheapskate(tm), I should have have asked: What's a good CHEAP, celluloid friendly, rust preventative?

    You can probably find sewing oil at Wal-Mart and avoid mail order; as I hate paying 6 or 7 bucks shipping for a $4.99 item

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    Quote Originally Posted by shuredgefan View Post
    Sewing oil seems like a good idea!

    As I'm a Super Cheapskate(tm), I should have have asked: What's a good CHEAP, celluloid friendly, rust preventative?

    You can probably find sewing oil at Wal-Mart and avoid mail order; as I hate paying 6 or 7 bucks shipping for a $4.99 item
    What about baby oil? I'm looking at a bottle now and the 2 ingredients are mineral oil and fragrance. You can get a big bottle for under $5, and you don't have to worry about rinsing it off before you use it.

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    Lots of people use mineral oil (generic baby oil at the WalMart pharmacy) I've used it before.
    I've also used WD 40 and those "TufCloths" which work quite well.

    Best thing I do, however, is simply getting the razor really really dry when I'm done shaving-seems to work pretty well.

    John P.

  5. #5
    Senior Member toolarts's Avatar
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    Baby oil is quite a bit more expensive than sewing machine oil, and is not made to protect metal.

    20 fl oz of Johnson's baby oil on Amazon is over $15.00.
    32 fl oz of Sew-Rite sewing machine oil is $9.95.

    Some mineral oils are as low as i $4.00 for 16 oz, so a little cheaper than sewing machine oil, but neither mineral oil or baby oil are formulated for protecting metal, as sewing machine oil is.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    The trouble with oils made for use on the human skin is that they are often low pH (=acid). I am not sure what acid does to celluloid but I do know acid is big trouble on carbon steel. That's why we have acid free vaseline in this country as a lubricant for bicycles.

    Quote Originally Posted by toolarts View Post
    Baby oil is quite a bit more expensive than sewing machine oil, and is not made to protect metal.

    20 fl oz of Johnson's baby oil on Amazon is over $15.00.
    32 fl oz of Sew-Rite sewing machine oil is $9.95.

    Some mineral oils are as low as i $4.00 for 16 oz, so a little cheaper than sewing machine oil, but neither mineral oil or baby oil are formulated for protecting metal, as sewing machine oil is.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    Senior Member freebird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toolarts View Post
    Baby oil is quite a bit more expensive than sewing machine oil, and is not made to protect metal.

    20 fl oz of Johnson's baby oil on Amazon is over $15.00.
    32 fl oz of Sew-Rite sewing machine oil is $9.95.

    Some mineral oils are as low as i $4.00 for 16 oz, so a little cheaper than sewing machine oil, but neither mineral oil or baby oil are formulated for protecting metal, as sewing machine oil is.
    Actully, when I was able to work , I ran a computerized paper shear. I was the 2nd operator as the previous shear operator had a hissy and quit. To make a long story short, the manufacturer of the shear recommended using baby oil or mineral oil on the table (all carbon steel). I ran that machine for 2 or 3 years before I was laid off, only oiling the table down on weekends. We didn't have a bit of rust on it, however, after I was called back to work (9 years later) the table was completely rusty red color. I asked the Production Manager about it and was told that they had quit oiling it down, didn't think it was neccesary. That's why I use baby oil on my razors, just a thin coat, plus I think of my razors as my kids anyway, so they may as well smell like it.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    This is what I use: dry towel.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  9. #9
    Senior Member toolarts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kees View Post
    This is what I use: dry towel.
    I'm with you on that one. If the razor is dry and kept in a dry environment, no problem with rust.

    Oil is just insurance.

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    Thread Killer shuredgefan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kees View Post
    This is what I use: dry towel.
    How do you get the pivot area dry?

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