Thread: Newbie with questions about "antique" razors

Hi all, I've been looking around your site a bit because I had started thinking about ditching my Fusion and trying straight razors...and well you've convinced me to give them a try. So, long story short, I went to a local antique shop looking to get a couple razors, since I don't have the money to buy multiple new DOVO straights. Well I found two of them for under $10 so I figured why not get them, if nothing else I could practice honing with them.

One looks to be in pretty good shape except for a little tarnishing and two small scratches near the edge. Will these scratches affect the shave quality? If so is it possible to hone small scratches/nicks out of the blade?

The second razor is more questionable, but I couldn't pass it up since it is a Soligen razor. There don't appear to be any nicks or dings on the edge, but the blade is fairly rusted from the center to the spine. So my questions for this one are, do any of you have any suggestions for how to remove rust without damaging the razor? I would like to "save" this razor, partly because it is from Soligen and partly because I like the scales.


Thanks for the advice,
-Mark

Well Mark your just jumping in with both feet arent you. ok lets take this in order. First, Welcome. Second you don't need new Dovo straights, the old ones work as well or better. New Dovos can have some major quality control issues that I don't like so I personally am not a fan of them. 2 straights for $10 is a great buy so congrats but the second one sounds like a lot of work. If you want to restore that I would do some searching on the resto forum because there is a good amount involved with restoring something with alot of rust. It would help if you posted pictures and info like the maker size and so on. As to the first one, if the scratches aren't cracks (which at first can look a little like a scratch) then they should not effect the razor's usefulness. Chips can be honed out but cracks can not.

THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO AS A BEGINNER IS SEND THAT RAZOR TO A MORE EXPERIENCED MEMBER TO BE HONED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I mean it.

I really really mean it.

So don't hack your face up. Send it to someone who does honing to get it honed.

Then practice stropping with the other one of a butter knife so you don't mess it up when it gets back. Trust me this is a problem.

So welcome again and good luck with your journey.

Chris

Mark,
First of all welcome to the forums.
Secondly, while I do not believe it is *necessary* to have a razor from a "honemeister" right away, (I didn't) it will make the learning curve much easier for you as a typical rule, unless you are a stubborn soul who likes to learn things the hardest way possible (like me). If you already have a good hone and strop, I would clean up both razors first, then send *one* of them off to someone to hone for you, and when it gets back...endeavor to make the other one shave *at least* as well as the one honed by an experienced straight user.
As for the rust on the one razor, I don't know without a photograph how extensive the rust is, and how in depth of a restoration you intend, but here are some ideas-use metal polish such as flitz or Maas, or even mag-wheel polish like Mothers (make sure the label says it is ok for use on steel) and clean it up as well as you can. Afterwards you can either sand it down with progressively smoother sandpaper (something many do here) or what I've done is use a chemical to do a similar job. In Wal Mart or similar stores, look near the hardware section, the boating section, or the gun section (if you are lucky) for a product called simply, "Rust Remover". You could also use Naval Jelly. Which ever is more affordable. If you use full concentration Naval Jelly remember to dilute it. Dillute according to directions into a small container near a running water source. Then, in periods of a few seconds a time (10 or so if I recall) put the metal *only* of the blade into the solution. It will fizz and bubble. Instantly rinse it after each dip to neutralize the naval jelly, and brush off whatever corrosion has loosened. Repeat this process until all that is left is the pitting. It will be black usually due to chemical reaction, feel free to sand this away or leave it as you please.
I have had excellent results doing this to a formerly lost-cause Dubl Duck Lifetime. Now it is excellent except for the need of some scales....

Hope this helps some, and at any rate, once the razors are cleaned up, get one honed, and start on your way. Enjoy!

John P.

Sorry for the lack of pictures in the previous post. I had to locate my digital camera as I haven't used it in about 4 years. lol

Anyways, the first razor is from GEO Kurn MFG CO in Little Valley N.Y. USA It is the blade with the scratches near the edge, I'm not sure (as I just started with straight razors) but I don't think they are cracks as they aren't on the other side of the blade and are very small. You might not even be able to see them in the picture.

The second razor is JH? Benckles Twin Works? made in Soligen, Germany. The brand name is partially covered by rust so it is difficult to read. If you would like a larger picture of this razor to better see the scratches just let me know and I can send it to you, or we can figure something out.

Thank you for the ideas about removing the rust, I'll look for the Rust Remover or Naval Jelly. I think I'll try to clean up the Twin Works razor before deciding which one to send off for expert honing and which I'll try to hone myself.

Thanks again.

From the pictures, that Henckels doesn't look *that* bad, but it could just be the lighting.
Lucky you, Henckels are known for having great steel. I've yet to have one that I didn't like.

As to which to send off, it's up to you, honestly. They are both likely to be decent shavers, although one is a round point vice the spike that your Henkels is.
Eenie-meenie-miney-mo method seems to work in this case.

John P.

Looks like you'll be able to save both of these... a little hand sanding on that Henkels and you'll be in business. Honestly, I'd send off the first one for honing so that I could shine up the henkels myself. If the blade isn't cracked on the first one a honemeister should be able to get her sharp enough to do whatever you need. Good buy for $10!

uhm, this thread is from last summer....