Thread: The more I find out, the more questions I have...

Om - the Belgian Blue will set the bevel for you (it's not the fastest hone though, by any means), but you need something around 8000k to refine it. The Belgian Yellow would fit the bill - used with a slurry it serves as a lesser grit size and cuts quite fast, used with just water it cuts finer, used dry it's finer still. You could then strop on a green chrome oxide pasted strop followed by finishing on a leather strop. Or get one of the cheap chinese polishing stones which is, I think, around 12000 grit size instead of the chrome oxide. I'd get the yellow stone and see how it goes.

Regards,
Neil.

So if I get one of the nice yellow stones that will do the job okay? And will I even need the BBW?

What is the use of a 4000 grit stone with a straight edge? Have I been sold a pup?

It's only a small stone though (100 x 50) so is very portable, so I guess I could travel with it very easily. But if it's not fine enough, do I even need it?

On no you will need the BBW as well. Think of hones like this: the hone is like a blade in itself. What you want to do with it is cut a very fine slice of metal from the edge of your razor. However the finished blade should be very precise and neat considering the job it has to do. As a metaphor- there are different blades for different things. This guy has an axe: Which would be great for chopping a branch off a tree. Now imagine your kitchen knife doing it. It might be able to do it as well, but it would take MUCH longer! However in the kitchen when you need to cut up a vegetable the axe would be able to do it, but it wouldnt fit the job as well because its not precise. For that you would choose the kitchen knife.

This rather elaborate and convoluted metaphor is to demonstrate that a 8000 grit stone could do the job of a 4000 grit stone but it wouldnt do it as well and it would take MUCH longer. Similarly a 4000 grit is not a finishing stone.

The short answer: You didnt waste your money.

Thanks for that - reassuring that I've got at least some of the right honing kit.

I've considered everything that you guys have said and have bought a ready-honed vintage straight edge so I can see/feel what the correct sharpness shoould be like, then I guess I need to get a yellow stone and practice on the Salter.

Wish me luck!

By no means did you waste your money on the blue. My honing progression goes 1200 DMT, belgian blue, and then coticule. Now of course it's not that simple, there are sluries involved along the way but I just wanted to point out that the blue has its place in a hone set-up.

Originally Posted by JCitron

By no means did you waste your money on the blue. My honing progression goes 1200 DMT, belgian blue, and then coticule. Now of course it's not that simple, there are sluries involved along the way but I just wanted to point out that the blue has its place in a hone set-up.

This is the set up that I started with and learned with. What can I say...... It served me well for over a year and a half.

I now use 1200 DMT (still) for my bevel setter
4K shapton on glass
8K Shapton on glass
16K Shapton on glass
Nakayama
CRO on pasted hanging linen strop

Finish with 60 laps on 2-1/2" red latigo TM strop
20 laps horsehide Scottish strop, 2-1/2"
20 laps #1 TM, horsehide, 2-1/2"

* Fabulous edges, nothing better!!! if I get an edge that's too sharp and a bit irritating (very rare!), I'll do 6 - 8 slurry laps on the Nakayama.

** Nothing better

Okay, my vintage WH Roberts (honed and stropped by Steve at Invisible Edge) has arrived today and I am itching to get it home and try it out. I'm going to take my time, concentrate on technique and prep, and try not to sever anything serious.

Wish me luck!

Hope it goes/went well. Any questions/problems you know where we are.