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  1. #1
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    Default Shaving around a beard?

    (conventional straights honed by Lynn and stops are in the mail)
    I have a narrow beard running along my jawline into a goatee. I keep the upper and lower line "straight edge" straight.

    I've been using a straight that takes the "persona" cartridge blades. From descriptions here I don't think they're anywhere near as sharp as Feathers. I also looked at the edge with a RS microscope and there is a very distinct double bevel on these with very distinct hone/grind scratches on both bevels.

    I generally shave only WTG and occassionally XTG on my cheeks. I shave down to the beard on the cheeks and down from the beard on my neck. I paid attention today and observed that I keep the line under my beard by coming into it at almost a 90* angle. Then almost immediately after contact and starting the stroke, I go to about a 30* angle as I stroke down my neck. Coming in at a shallow angle either takes off some of my beard (1/8" to 1/4" long) or the line gradually moves down my neck over time.

    This got me to thinking that maybe some variation from the "standard" edge, through honing or stropping or both, might be better suited for this type of use/technique? I'm very used to these crappy blades -- often takes multiple passes, sounds like sandpaper, etc -- so I probably wouldn't have a problem sacrificing some comfort, efficiency, or forgoing the BBS shave in order to maintain the line on my beard. Any thoughts on this?
    Last edited by Quick; 11-02-2008 at 08:32 PM.

  2. #2
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I am with ya here, I too shave around a light beard, in fact that was what first got me started with a straight razor back in the early 80's when I grew my first beard ... Want straight beard lines get a straight razor, my barber taught me how back then........
    You have already noted the biggest problem, we use absolutely terrible blade angle in some spots, you also need a wicked sharp blade....
    I go WTG on the first pass, and use as a perfect blade angle as I can muster.. Then the second pass in XTG on the cheeks and ATG on my neck, The last pass is only to clean up the straight line on the cheeks...
    This might be why I love the 6/8 or smaller full hollow grinds the best, Like I was saying earlier they have to be at the absolute sharpest possible state to work well, what might work for others with nice long smooth stokes and big heavy blades does not work for us...
    One other thing that helps is the best prep you can manage, this is one of the other reasons I am all into the Uberlather and hot towels, one it's more fun, and two it helps to make the beard as easy to cut as possible....
    Last edited by gssixgun; 11-02-2008 at 10:57 PM.

  3. #3
    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    Default

    I don't have the beard along the jawline, but I do shave around a moustache/goatee combo. A big definitely agree on the sharpness issue Glen mentioned. To get that perfectly straight vertical edge along my beard I need to have good and sharp heels and toes on my razors, as I do not do XTG passes.

    So I generally just make sure the whole edge is sharp, but I pay particular attention to the toe and heel when I hone my razors. If I don't get it right I soon find out during the shave.

    James.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    You have already noted the biggest problem, we use absolutely terrible blade angle in some spots, you also need a wicked sharp blade....

    I go WTG on the first pass, and use as a perfect blade angle as I can muster.. Then the second pass in XTG on the cheeks and ATG on my neck, The last pass is only to clean up the straight line on the cheeks...
    Hmmm... ATG on the neck. I don't see the top line being a problem. It's the bottom line. Never tried ATG on my neck. Might be time to try that. But if I understand you guys, the main message is *sharp* is better (and I assume a lighter touch) when coming in at too much of an angle to the face. And then face prep.

    Never been much on face prep. I only shave after coming out of a hot shower so it's not too bad. I use Roffler Gentle Shave. Haven't really tried much else except one or two off the shelf gels which weren't close. I don't use anything with a lather because I can't see the beard lines. The Roffler will lather if you work it up but I just spread it on like a cream and it seems to do a pretty good job. I'm thinking of trying a pre-shave oil as well before the cream.

    (Jees, I can't believe my stuff isn't here yet. I ordered it Friday night )

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