Thread: Choosing your first straight

Hi again.

Having had moderate success with my DE experience, I'm considering entering the world of straights. My particular conditions affecting selection would include:

1. Extremely thick, tough beard. My current DE choices of either Crystal or Feather still require several passes - including ATG - to get me acceptably smooth.



2. A heavy hand. While in time I may acquire a lighter touch - based on my previous multi-blade experience and current attempts with a DE - I'm definitely pressing the blade into the skin and scraping it along. The lighter touch just doesn't seem to get the job done - but I'm aware this may be a problem with a straight.


3. Did I mention I have a tough beard? I don't know that I have particularly "sensitive" skin - but I do bleed quite a bit on my neck - the rest seems to be fine.

4. I also recently discovered the pleasure of a shaved head - so if a different blade would be appropriate for this I'd appreciate the insight.

There's a bewildering array of choices available - and I don't know which I should choose to get introduced to this concept. Something like a Shavette, which uses a SE or half-DE blade? Go the super-sharp route without needing strops/hones and get a Feather kit? Or something more traditional?

Hi there.
I don't shave my head so can't advise there but a shave ready Wapi might be a good introduction for you. They're a stiff grind & fairly forgiving of heavy handed first timers tho that's bad technique & you'll suffer burn if you're pressure is excessive.
I'm sure you'll get some more suggestions.

I guess the Wapi is as good an idea as any. What I think you should do is try a few different reasonably priced blades to see what works best for you. A heavier blade (and Wapis are) should feel better getting through your beard, but a lighter blade might help you reduce the blade pressure. This is a no-no. You won't like the results one little bit. What you need to cut even the toughest beard with a straight razor is not a heavy hand, but a sharp blade and good technique.

X

I agree with X, a sharp blade will make all the difference. I shaved my head with the same razor I used on my face. I found my head to be easier to shave. I know, flat sides and all, anyway a Wapi is a good choice. However, most blades will do the job if it is sharp. Wedges as opposed to hollow ground will give you a feeling of weight which will seem to make the blade cut through your beard easier. Regardless of the mass of the blade it all comes down to the edge, it's got to be sharp.

Originally Posted by Thumper

Hi again.

2. A heavy hand. While in time I may acquire a lighter touch - based on my previous multi-blade experience and current attempts with a DE - I'm definitely pressing the blade into the skin and scraping it along. The lighter touch just doesn't seem to get the job done - but I'm aware this may be a problem with a straight.

3. Did I mention I have a tough beard? I don't know that I have particularly "sensitive" skin - but I do bleed quite a bit on my neck - the rest seems to be fine.

Before you even get your straight, you can improve these conditions with your current set-up. I would guess that these two problems are related. The bleeding is due to to heavy of a hand and I would say better skin stretching practices would allow you to use a lighter touch to get better results as well as cut down on the bleeding.

Originally Posted by Thumper

There's a bewildering array of choices available - and I don't know which I should choose to get introduced to this concept. Something like a Shavette, which uses a SE or half-DE blade? Go the super-sharp route without needing strops/hones and get a Feather kit? Or something more traditional?

A Shavette is a cheap ultra sharp introduction, while the feather is a much classier version of the same. Either can get you used to the concept of shaving with an open razor and they are a great shave and can be fun to have. On the other hand they will crucify someone with a heavy hand, literally slice you to ribbons. They are quite unforgiving of mistakes and a bit harsh compared to a traditional straight. I'm really not kidding, I tend to have a light touch with a DE and a lighter one with a straight but with my Shavette I need a whisper light touch or I will end up with a bleeding line on my face.

The traditional straight is the smoothest most comfortable feeling razor I have ever used. That is, when it is maintained correctly. That is really its only drawback, you must maintain it properly and take good care of it or it can go downhill fast.

There are lots of different razors out there but all reputable ones are pretty similar really. Its kind of like comparing professional athletes, sure this one is better than that one or that guy is faster and cooler but in the end they are all far out of the league of us amateur players. Amateurs are what every other shaving system feels like once you get consistently good with a traditional straight.

I know I am re-iterating what has already been said, but these two things are so super important and will UTTERLY affect your success and enjoyment of straight razor shaving. Sharpness of the razor and pressure that you use in shaving.

If you have a tough beard in particular it will be of the utmost importance that you keep your razor SUPER sharp. Whichever one you choose. Get it honed at first is my suggestion. But sharpness cannot be stressed enough.

As for pressure during your shave, there should be minimal. S-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g the skin is key here. If your razor is sharp (did I mention it should be sharp?) then it should be able to cut through the toughest beard with little to no pressure at all. Pushing into the skin increases the likeliness of razor bumps and ingrown hair.

New DE blades are sharp. If you can't shave your beard with a DE with a light touch, I wonder how you will be able to do it with any straight razor, stiff or not.

Using a straight may force you to learn to use a lighter touch though. Without a light touch on a heavy beard, shaving with a straight will probably be uncomfortable for you

Now - that is something I am NOT doing. Stretching.

How do you do that with a face full of slippery soap?

Here's how Jockeys shaves. this will give you a pretty good idea of how to properly shave, just substitute your DE for the straight.

Shaving demonstration video

The same way you get to Carnegie Hall, practice! May sound like a smartass answer(and it is) but its the truth, its not hard, just try it next time.