Thread: Merry DOVO Christmas!

Hello & Merry Christmas,

Well, I asked for a Stainless DOVO for Christmas. I had not read about it being so much more difficult to obtain a decent edge with Stainless. I got the razor, an imperial russia (Chicago) strop and some Amber Col. Conk's and am very excited. Unfortunately, I thought the blade was shave ready; that it just needed a stropping. I got the stainless because I live in the deep south just of the gulf of Mexico and rust is an issue here.

My waterstones need to be flattened, but I'm waiting to get a granite inspection plate then put some 600grit on top. After I get the 4000 and 8000 stones flat I'll try an' not mess it up. I'm alright with my hand pressure, but use a Veritas blade holder to keep the angle while sharpening my plane blades to a mirror finish. Will pickup a dime store blade to warm up my hone hand so I don't make a mess of that DOVO. Well, I'm going to stropp it and have a go on a small WTG section so that I can try something TODAY!

So for the Questions:

1. Will the Stainless DOVO get sharp enough; is it worth keeping?

2.If it's not up to par should I practice honing, stropping and shaving with it untill I can buy a steel version. Then what is the best daily way to preserve the blade with an oil that won't bother the skin?

3. Do you have any other suggestions (I would prefer not to have to wait even longer while I send it out to be honed and made ready. I will try an find someone local to sharpen and show me the ropes)?


Thanks for putting up such a wonderful site!

The Dovo Stainless blades usually make for very nice shavers. Not that much more difficult to hone. Don't use the blade holder as the razor needs to be flat on the stone. I'd say get it honed up and enjoy.

Lynn

Welcome to SRP ! For sure the stainless Dovo is worth keeping. A stainless razor is a bit more abrasion resistant and therefore a bit tougher to hone but once you get where you want to go it is fine. Haivng experiance with the plane honing may help but they are a different animal. Wipe the blade after you shave and hit it a dozen licks on the strop to clean the edge then a rust preventative should do fine. Check out the tutorials in the Wiki on the toolbar above and there are great resources to point you in the right direction. Smooth shaving and

A Dovo stainless blade is a step up from many good blades out there. Some folks love carbon steel (quick to take a good edge), some love stainless (edge lasts longer, less apt to corrode). Don’t be a bigot. Get a couple of each. It’s all got it’s place. In general, if it takes 50 strokes to get an edge on carbon, it may take 300 strokes on the stainless. If you are just learning how to hone, that difference may drive you crazy. But, you are here so you are probably crazy already.

Toss the honing jig. Read up on this site about bevels and spine taping. Use the tape to keep your razor(s) pristine. Most honing mistakes can be gone within the hour, assuming you did not mash on the blade or spend hours grinding the perfect mistake into the same spot.

Stainless in the razor world is not quite like stainless in the aerospace industry, rust still happens to some extent. Wipe your blade and tail dry with a dry cotton towel every time. Spend extra effort around the pin area, this is where the rust will announce it’s presence. I am told Tuff Glide is good stuff to put in that pin area. Tuf Glide - Sentry Solutions
Also, don’t store your blades in the bathroom. Look at what happens to your mirrors each time you shower.

I had the same blade given to me as my first, and I managed to shave straight from tin, I also have a strop I made for sharpening planes and chisels, which is just a bit of thick leather glue to a bit of wood loaded with autosol it seems to do the job I'm not sure how shapr these tools can be gotten to, as I've never seen one used by someone on a regular basis to I don't know how sharp is sharp. You might want to try some micromesh on your granite surface plate, as you can get a finer edge with these than a strop

Originally Posted by kahunamoose

If you are just learning how to hone, that difference may drive you crazy. But, you are here so you are probably crazy already.

That did make me smile (because it's true). Welcome, Jimmy, you've had some great advice already, so I'll leave it at that. Merry Christmas all.

Jimmy0,

I have a granite surface plate and tend to do my honing on it as well, but truthfully you could do with getting a granite tile from lowes or home depot for about five bucks. I can flatten on my granite tile or surface plate, and get the same results. Pencil grids come off evenly on both when switching back and forth. Alternatively, find an old picture frame from an 8x10 or so and pull the glass out of it. Lay the glass on the counter, wet your wet/dry sandpaper and the glass, stick the sandpaper on there and go at it. Your hone will be flat enough to get a fantastic edge on your razor; I doubt you'll be able to tell a huge difference when you get the surface plate.

From what it sounds like you've got great equipment to start with. You should be all set!

EDIT: Follow the hone lapping tutorial here and you will be all set: http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ne_Lapping_101


Congrats

Thanks for the great responses.

I've shaved the right side of my face twice with it having been stropped. I started thinking about a dull blade being more dangerous than a sharp one when I went to shave the left side of my face and prudence stopped me
So, I will get a piece of granite tonight, hone that sucker, keep my razor in a drier room. I like the Col. Conks better than the gel I've been using, but I haven't gotten my brush yet so it's not so whipped up.
Need to order a badger brush and some Trumper Sandlewood cream!

j.

Would it be alright to stop with the edge held flat but skewed enough to fit the whole edge on the leather? I can effectively slide the blade sideways while I pull the blade along but it seems to me that the outside edges of the blade get much less stropping than the middle. I'm sure there is a good reason, but thought I might ask.

You could do that, but it seems like it would tire the wrist a little more. Use an X pattern when you strop and you'll get the entire edge sharp and it will (in my mind) feel more natural than trying to hold an oblique in both directions.