Thread: Sharpness & Lathering Techniques?

I recently received a straight razor kit for christmas. I'm very excited to begin shaving well with it. I had a few questions to clear up a bit of confusion.

First, is the lather. I have a badger brush, shaving soap, and a wooden bowl. Soap and bowl are from a local soap shop, not sure what it's made out of. But I can find out. The problem is that the lather is dissolving much faster than I think it should. The first time I tried creating lather is was very bubbly, which dissolved very quickly after applying to the face. Since then I've refined my technique to create much finer bubbles which seems to stick around a bit longer. However, it's nothing like what I'm used to... commercial gels. The lather from the gels is much denser and lasts much longer. The lather doesn't need to last this long but I was wondering what others experiences were on this topic. Is this just something that I should expect?


Now for the bigger problem. The sharpness of the blade is, well, like a two-three week old safety razor. It's nearly painful to shave areas that have thick hair. The blade was just recently honed (two weeks ago). I think I'm doing the stropping process correctly. 20-30 on canvas then 20-30 on leather (no paste) in the X pattern. I'm keeping the strop taught and only applying a small amount of pressure as the move the blade across. I learned my current technique from the straight razor place DVD. So how do I sharpen this up? Or is this also something that should be expected... I'm almost sure it's not.


Thanks,
Brian

Hi Brian, I'd recommend starting with less water in your shaving brush (shake out the excess) and adding more water gradually as you build the lather on your face.

As for your razor, are you familiar with any method for checking your edge after stropping? The number of laps on the strop is useless. You have to know how to check your edge during and after stropping to know if it's done. And then again, it may need some work on a hone. Did your kit come with a hone? BTW, what make of razor?

If you check around, you will find readable copies online of old standard barber books. The ones that were used to teach barbers how to use straight razors. The directions are very straight forward, simple to follow, and really provide all you need to know. You could not do any better than to research those books. Then come back and ask more questions.


Scott

To get the fine suds now that's exactly what I had to do. Use less water. It takes a while to build up the lather this way (which is fine) and I end up slowing adding more water to the brush as needed. I think I just need to keep at this until I'm satisfied with the lather. Maybe a mug would help?

The only check that I've tried is the hanging hair test. And after reading about it a bit more, I think I was doing it wrong. From the video on I saw on the wiki the hair just pops in two and that's definitely not what is happening with my razor. Unfortunately, my kit did not come with a hone. That will most likely be the first addition to my set. I watched a few more videos on stropping since my last post and it seems like a few of the examples are making stronger contact between the strop and the blade than I am. I'm quite afraid of damaging the blade so I really haven't been very vigorous with it. Should I be?

I think the razor is a DOVO silver steal with beech wood handle.

I'll have to check my local library to see if they have any useful books.

Thanks for the quick reply,
Brian

Check online for the barber texts. I think SRP has saved copies in it's archives somewhere on this site.

You may be correct that you are stropping too lightly. Keep in mind that the strop is softer leather, the razor is harder steel. To have a positive effect on the edge, some pressure is necessary. Practice turning the razor away from the strop. When you feel confident, go back to the strop and practice on the strop slowly, making every move deliberately. As your confidence increases, so will your speed, and your ability to control the razor as well as it's pressure on the strop.

Scott

Originally Posted by btm

The blade was just recently honed (two weeks ago). I think I'm doing the stropping process correctly. 20-30 on canvas then 20-30 on leather (no paste) in the X pattern. I'm keeping the strop taught and only applying a small amount of pressure as the move the blade across. I learned my current technique from the straight razor place DVD. So how do I sharpen this up? Or is this also something that should be expected... I'm almost sure it's not.

Brian,

Who honed your razor? Also, try 50-60 laps on the leather side of the strop. There is no general consensus on the use of the linen side of the strop (use it or not). It seems to be personal preference. I don't use it. At some point, however, your razor will need to be touched up on a pasted strop or hone...

Just re-read your OP and see that the razor was honed just two weeks ago. Can't imagine it would already need a re-honing, unless it was poorly honed to begin. You indicate that you've been very cautious with your stropping, so I doubt that you've done any damage related to stropping. I'm guessing that stropping is going to make the difference in this case. BTW, barber texts in the SRP "Help" section.



Scott

You might find these two articles from the Wiki useful (although they really don't add too much to Lynn's fabulous DVD):

• Illustrated Guide to making Überlather - Straight Razor Place Wiki
• Sharpness tests explained - Straight Razor Place Wiki

I'm not sure who honed it. As this was a christmas present I don't know all the details. I can find out however. About all I know is that the guy is from New York. When I go home tonight I'll practice a bit with the strop and see what kind of results I get. I'll let you know

-Brian

Hi,
Welcome to the site. Maybe you should try whipping up the lather in a bowl first. It should be nice & thick & cling to the sides before you shave with it, so much so that you can't get the bowl clean with the brush. Then carry on on your face for a couple of minutes to prep the stubble.

As for the razor, it could be several things. Did you shave with it straight away, or strop it first? It could be that it was perfectly shave ready, then you stropped it & it wasn't any more! It could also be that it was never shave ready. Try to watch some stropping videos. That will help you as it can be really hard with no one to copy.

Welcome to SRP, Brian.

I keep a small bowl handy, smaller than a cereal bowl, for cremes and soaps in the wooden tubs. I fill the bowl with hot tap water and soak my brush in it while I use the hot towel. Then I dump the water and give the brush a shake to get rid of excess water. I swirl the brush tip on my soap to load it, then I use the warm, small bowl to work up my lather. The lather should build to the consistancy of whipped creme. If the brush is dripping soapy water, it's too wet. Shake off the excess and go back to the bowl with the brush. If it's very dry and no lather appears after a minute, dip the very tip of the brush into hot tap water and go at it again. Soon you'll get the feel for how much water to add.

Don't be afraid to re-lather you face as you shave. If you put your small bowl in a larger pan filled with hot water, you can keep the lather hot. If the lather dries in the bowl, add more hot water by dipping your brush.

I hope this helps.

Dave