Results 11 to 19 of 19
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03-22-2009, 09:07 AM #11
I am looking into those Tony Miller strops, they look terrific and I've heard only good things about them, unfortunately he's currently on hiatus. My next investments are a new strop, a finishing stone, and perhaps a dia-sharp 1200 for bevel setting all the ebay blades I start acquiring... oh damn, HAD and RAD, I forsee this hobby becoming expensive...
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03-22-2009, 09:20 AM #12
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Thanked: 156Don't forget the RRAD. Razor restoration addiction disorder. That is actually pretty cheap comparatively. Only requires $20 worth of sandpaper, $10 polishing compound, old t-shirt and hours and hours of time. Personally, I would stay away from ebay blades. Honestly, from personal experience, they suck up way more time than you think. Way more time. Unless your buying ones for $50+ with zero rust and no pits... to get them to an aesthetically pleasing condition requires many man hours. Many many man-hours.... Yeah, best a line you and other people do not cross lightly. RRAD is the penultimate disorder...
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03-22-2009, 06:53 PM #13
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Thanked: 346Ignore the calls for HAD. You can get good shaves off the strop, you don't need $$$ finishing stones. Believe me, I've got 'em and don't use them anymore. OTOH I've developed a minor case of RSAD (Razor Strop Acquisition Disorder)....
It sounds like you've got the same quirk as I do. Some leather strops kill my edges very quickly. For me it seems to be correlated with the level of draw - leather strops with a lot of draw like latigo and heavily dressed cowhide (which sounds like describes your Illinois 127) tend to kill the edge, but leather strops with very little draw like horsehide or cordovan will take that linen edge and make it even sharper and smoother.
You might want to invest in a good horsehide strop. You'll find that the horsehide/linen combination was one of the most popular combinations back in the day and are therefore pretty common on ebay. Tony Miller makes some beautiful ones as well, and I can't recommend them enough. My favorite Miller strop is actually a paddle strop with horsehide on one side and canvas on the other.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mparker762 For This Useful Post:
JimmyHAD (03-23-2009)
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03-22-2009, 08:42 PM #14
As usual, I agree with MParker. It took some time for me to learn just how delicate a strop should be treating an edge.
I actually use the traditional method of applying EVVO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) to my strops to keep them supple and smooth, cutting back on the "draw" appropriately.
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The Following User Says Thank You to AFDavis11 For This Useful Post:
JimmyHAD (03-23-2009)
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03-23-2009, 04:28 PM #15
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Thanked: 3164I agree with mparker, too. The type of leather definitely has a telling effect. Some latigos seem to dull the edge, some enhance it like you would expect. The suede-type ordinary cowhide always seems to perform very well for me. You just have to lightly abrade the (untreated) surface with very fine (say 600 grit) wet and dry paper to raise a fine knap.
If your other strop works, then use it! No need for another one - unless you really want to treat yourself, of course!
Kees idea sounds likely too - you can''t tell how much fine grit is blowing about in the air, but try and develop a roll of black and white film and hang it up to dry in an unprotected environment and you will know all about dust contamination! If your strop was sticky after dressing and left so that it could have dust settle on it...
Regards,
Neil.
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03-23-2009, 06:04 PM #16
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Thanked: 13245
I am going back to the beginning here, before you decided what the problem was....
I realize that you have pretty much decided that a new strop is the answer here, but what changed strop wise from month 1 til now ?????
Seems from reading your post from the beginning, the problem started when you honed the razor yourself. not at all uncommon around these parts...
A Norton 4/8 combo stone is more than capable of getting a previously honed razor back up and running.... but it does take a little practice to do it right...
More strops and finer hones are not the solution to most sharpness problems....
Lynn has a great saying about honing, "less is more", now I know he was referring to lap counts when he said it, but it also applies to getting a razor tweaked and shave ready... The "less" variables you create, the "more" likely you are to solve the problem....
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
Bart (03-23-2009)
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03-24-2009, 12:07 AM #17
Well, today was the test shave day and I have to say now that I'm using my other strop there was a vast improvement, the razor just glided like a champ. I still have work to do on my technique, adding pressure is a hard cartridge habbit to break. But I am definitely convinced the other strop was causing my dullness problems. Here was the procedure I went through today...
Filled scuttle and microwaved 1 minute
Added insert and let heat up
Whipped up a sweet uberlather of C&E Nomad and mug soap
Added the lather and brush to the heated scuttle bowl
HWRX2, Hot towel, Lather face
Stropped on new strop for 50 laps give or take
Refreshed lather and 1 WTG pass
Rinsed, relathered, 10 laps on strop
2nd pass ATG, CWR
Wasn't quite as good as my fusion, I blame my technique, but the razor was definitely more comfortable and shaved whiskers with no pulling.
I'm going to clean the other strop and see if I can try using it again...
Thanks to everyone for all your help... I'll have to try the EVVO idea to limit the drag if cleaning it doesnt help.
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03-24-2009, 12:18 AM #18
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03-26-2009, 02:30 PM #19
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Thanked: 13245That explains it, great to hear yer getting there again....