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  1. #1
    Senior Member Mike7120's Avatar
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    Welcome to SRP!

    That's really neat that you have your grandfathers razor. The blade looks pretty ruff, but I've seen razors in worse condition restored nicely and used.

  2. #2
    The only straight man in Thailand ndw76's Avatar
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    The razor looks like it might have some bad pitting, but those scales look fantastic. Because it was your grandfather's razor I think it would definitally be worthwhile resoring it.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the comments and welcomes guys.
    I would like to get it done by an SRP restorer, but it seems that they're mainly based overseas... anyone know of one based in Australia? I'd just rather have the razor sitting around rusty than risk getting it lost or stolen overseas.
    I had said the scales were bone but yeah ivory seems more fitting... to me they seem something natural as they look to have some sort of grain running through them. I tried to take some better photos of the scales for you all.
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  4. #4
    JMS
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    Usagi Yojimbo JMS's Avatar
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    Looking at those photos I would say it is definitely French ivory which is another way of saying fake or man made ivory.

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Welcome to SRP. There is a member named Jasper Kade from Aus as well as some others. Jasper has been dabbling with restoring razors and collecting vintage blades. I'm in the USA and I bought a Merkur from him and a Robert Williams from a fellow in Perth so there is more available in your neck of the woods than you would think.

    If you can't find anyone to restore your grand dad's razor over there shipping back and forth to the colonies isn't that big a deal. I got that razor from Perth in about a week for $20.00 shipping. and smooth shaving.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  6. #6
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    I thought Jasper Kade was from South Africa.

    That's a beautiful pair of scales.
    Quite frankly, I wouldn't waist time and money on that blade. I think it's lost. Sure, you could get it shiny again, but there's a high chance the edge retaining properties of the steel are seriously compromised. With such lovely scales, I'd retrofit an outstanding modern blade instead.

    Of course, this is just what I'd do.

    Welcome to SRP,

    Bart.
    Last edited by Bart; 04-23-2009 at 12:05 AM.

  7. #7
    cla
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    I would also like to welcome you to the SRP as a fellow newbie I think I have posted various forms of the same question in various spots on this Forum. As well as trying to read as much as possible on the subject of removing rust.

    I haven't heard back from anyone yet. So, just to clarify the ONLY safe way to remove rust is by using sand paper or a dremel, correct? Vinegar and baking soda won't work and can actually make things worse, from what I gather. So how do restorer's get around engraved blades or gold platting with out ruining it?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cla View Post
    I would also like to welcome you to the SRP as a fellow newbie I think I have posted various forms of the same question in various spots on this Forum. As well as trying to read as much as possible on the subject of removing rust.

    I haven't heard back from anyone yet. So, just to clarify the ONLY safe way to remove rust is by using sand paper or a dremel, correct? Vinegar and baking soda won't work and can actually make things worse, from what I gather. So how do restorer's get around engraved blades or gold platting with out ruining it?
    Sanding is the only way to deal with rust, but there are other options than doing it by hand or with a Dremel (or similar device form another brand). For razors, I find flap wheels attached to a drill that's put in a vise, much easier than hand sanding or the Dremel, but that's just me.
    It could also be done with very coarse water-based compounds on buffing wheels, but that's a setup that requires some investments.

    Unless the corrosion is minor and stays very clear from ornamental etches and/or goldwashed areas, these things cannot be saved, while sanding out corrosion. Engravings and stamps usually can be saved.

    With severe corrosion on a hollow blade, often the pitting is so deep that you'll hit cavities in the steel, while honing the razor after the restoration. Less hollow blades, such as those vintage Sheffield wedges you can regularly see on Ebay in heavily rusted state, have more chance of keeping a core of solid steel after the restoration.

    Bart.

    Bart.

  9. #9
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart View Post
    I thought Jasper Kade was from South Africa. Bart.
    Hmmmm you may be right. I can't recall now that you mention it.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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