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04-22-2009, 08:01 AM #1
Looking at those photos I would say it is definitely French ivory which is another way of saying fake or man made ivory.
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04-22-2009, 11:03 AM #2
Welcome to SRP. There is a member named Jasper Kade from Aus as well as some others. Jasper has been dabbling with restoring razors and collecting vintage blades. I'm in the USA and I bought a Merkur from him and a Robert Williams from a fellow in Perth so there is more available in your neck of the woods than you would think.
If you can't find anyone to restore your grand dad's razor over there shipping back and forth to the colonies isn't that big a deal. I got that razor from Perth in about a week for $20.00 shipping. and smooth shaving.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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04-22-2009, 08:06 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Belgium
- Posts
- 1,872
Thanked: 1212I thought Jasper Kade was from South Africa.
That's a beautiful pair of scales.
Quite frankly, I wouldn't waist time and money on that blade. I think it's lost. Sure, you could get it shiny again, but there's a high chance the edge retaining properties of the steel are seriously compromised. With such lovely scales, I'd retrofit an outstanding modern blade instead.
Of course, this is just what I'd do.
Welcome to SRP,
Bart.Last edited by Bart; 04-23-2009 at 12:05 AM.
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04-22-2009, 09:38 PM #4
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Utah
- Posts
- 21
Thanked: 2I would also like to welcome you to the SRP as a fellow newbie I think I have posted various forms of the same question in various spots on this Forum. As well as trying to read as much as possible on the subject of removing rust.
I haven't heard back from anyone yet. So, just to clarify the ONLY safe way to remove rust is by using sand paper or a dremel, correct? Vinegar and baking soda won't work and can actually make things worse, from what I gather. So how do restorer's get around engraved blades or gold platting with out ruining it?
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04-23-2009, 12:21 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Belgium
- Posts
- 1,872
Thanked: 1212Sanding is the only way to deal with rust, but there are other options than doing it by hand or with a Dremel (or similar device form another brand). For razors, I find flap wheels attached to a drill that's put in a vise, much easier than hand sanding or the Dremel, but that's just me.
It could also be done with very coarse water-based compounds on buffing wheels, but that's a setup that requires some investments.
Unless the corrosion is minor and stays very clear from ornamental etches and/or goldwashed areas, these things cannot be saved, while sanding out corrosion. Engravings and stamps usually can be saved.
With severe corrosion on a hollow blade, often the pitting is so deep that you'll hit cavities in the steel, while honing the razor after the restoration. Less hollow blades, such as those vintage Sheffield wedges you can regularly see on Ebay in heavily rusted state, have more chance of keeping a core of solid steel after the restoration.
Bart.
Bart.
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04-23-2009, 02:25 AM #6