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Thread: Complete newb...
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04-24-2009, 08:28 AM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
- Posts
- 48
Thanked: 3Complete newb...
Well, let me start off by saying that this site, and all of the info is amazing! I never knew that there was such a cult following, and as I keep reading, I can see how easily it can become an obsession. My obsession for the last few years has been Swedish snus, so it might be time to start a new one.
I started thinking about using a straight razor because it seems like everything that I use on my face just tears it up, and although my great-grandfathers Gilette DE doesn't do too bad, straight razors are the only thing that I haven't tried. I love a close shave, but I hate shaving at this point.
I am taking the plunge and am going to pick up some vintage razors that some guy is selling locally tomorrow morning (8 straight razors and a strop, for $40 bucks, min. rust, but in fair condition) I figure that even if they need some work, its worth the money. That way I can get a couple honed, and also start working on a couple myself. You'll probably be hearing from me in the near future, and I will try and post some pics tomorrow (or at least razor info) after I pick up the razors and hopefully get some feedback from the masters here. Cheers!
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04-24-2009, 08:44 AM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Monmouth, OR - USA
- Posts
- 1,163
Thanked: 317First of all, welcome!
I think that the way you're going about it is one of the better ways. $40 for 8 razors, get two honed by a pro for $20 a piece, you're out $80, got 2 great shavers, and lot's of practice material to learn honing.
FYI, when you decide to learn to hone, I'd start with the ugliest razors in the lot.
If "modern" razors tear your face up, and a safety razor is an improvement, you will probably love straights once you get the hang of it. After a week and a half, I can get a nice smooth shave with little to know irritation in 2 passes. One WTG, one XTG. (ATG still tears me up)
Keep us updated on that lot of razors (everybody loves pics) and don't be afraid to ask questions. This is, without a doubt, the most helpful and friendly forum of any kind that I have ever been on, and I've been on a lot of forums.
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04-24-2009, 12:06 PM #3
Hmmm. I know we are a very passionate and dedicated group. I never looked at us as a cult!
As to your razors, sounds like a plan. In addition to a shave ready razor you will need the following as a minimum:
1. Strop (hanging is best, a paddle will work)
2. Shave soap/cream (personal preference)
3. Brush (as little as 15$ to obscene prices)
Sound like you are already going to get hones, which you will need eventually.
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04-24-2009, 03:10 PM #4
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
- Posts
- 48
Thanked: 3The razors will come with a strop, but this brings up another question, as it will be a vintage strop, will I need to oil the strop, or perhaps clean it with some saddle soap prior to use?
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04-24-2009, 03:13 PM #5
That will depend on the strop. You might want to put an entry in the STROP forum below. A lot of knowledgable people here. They will, however, need to know the condition of the strop (and some pics would be helpful) when you receive it. I have never tried to restore a strop so I would be useless to you...
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04-24-2009, 08:00 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
- Posts
- 48
Thanked: 3Here are the razors that I picked up this morning. Some are in poor shape, some just have the rust spots.
1. Joseph Elliot Silversteel - poor horn scales, good blade/edge, just a little rusty
2. Appleton - decent plastic scales, good blade/edge, just a little rusty
3. Boker Extra Hollow Ground, 346RP - good scales, good blade/chipped edge, a little rusty
4. I can make out the words "Butcher Scheffield" - good scales, good blade chipped edge, a little rusty
5. Henry Sears & Son - poor horn scales, good blade/edge, just a little rusty
6. Magnetic Razor - chipped horn scales, good blade edge, min. rust
7. Unknown Mfg. - OK horn scales, good blade/edge, just a little rust
8. Unknown Mfg. - good scales, poor blade/edge, really rusty.
No pic of blade 8 or my R.W. Sunasack Moose hide/Mule hide strop. The camera died.
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04-24-2009, 08:04 PM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
- Posts
- 48
Thanked: 3I got some sandpaper...200/320/400/800/1000/1500
So, correct me if I am wrong, but I am to use the 200 to get the rust off, and then move progressively higher in grit.
Am I supposed to remove the scales before I do this? and if so, how do I do that?
Thanks,
Eric
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04-24-2009, 08:41 PM #8
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Sussex, UK
- Posts
- 1,710
Thanked: 234Number 4 (I think, one up from the bottom) and 1 look like they have some pretty uneven hone wear to me. Number 2 looks OLD. 7 looks pretty good as well.
Shame about the edge on that boker, but I guess you could hone all those chips out.
Number 2 is the one I'd start with I think, it looks mean already.
You grind the pins to remove the scales, the safest method (from what I understand) is to mask up around the pin and file it with a fine fine.Last edited by gregs656; 04-24-2009 at 08:46 PM.
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04-25-2009, 12:50 PM #9
Those razors look pretty rough ! The first one pictured isn't too bad and would be worth restoring . The razors with the chips in thier edges are useless , but if the scales are in good shape you can save them for future resto projects . The rest of the blades have serious rust and hone wear issues , and will require a good amount of work to bring them back to life . I think you would do best to buy a shave-ready razor (new or used) , and send the first pictured razor out to a restorer (there are several of our members who provide this service) . The rest of the razors will be good for trying to restore them yourself , although one or two of them may be hopeless . All in all , you didn't do bad for the money you spent , but all of those razors will require more than a $20.00 honing to make them shave-ready .
Greetings , from Dundalk , Maryland . The place where normal people , fear to go .
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04-25-2009, 06:19 PM #10
Instead of sand paper, I'd use a rust stripper to chemically remove the rust. Almost any gun store has "Birchwood Casey's Blue and Rust Remover." That and 0000 steel wool will strip the rust easily.
BTW, I like #2!I strop my razor with my eyes closed.