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Thread: question to hone masters?
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06-13-2009, 04:03 PM #11
Alan is right
1k is not necessary on a good razor with proper bevel
if you spend a lot of time with the 12k, .5u and .25u it means your edge off 8k is not good enough.
the answer to your question, how to minimize honing time is actually by honing more.
lynn hones as fast and with so few strokes as he does because he has the developed the skills by honing a lot of razors.
so yeah, it's a catch-22 in a way.
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06-15-2009, 07:04 PM #12
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
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- Chicagoland
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- 844
Thanked: 1554K if it is really dull
8K to thumb pad test
Polish on pasted strop (0.5 micron diamond paste) sometimes
Strop
Shave.
This works for me, but then I am not into major restoration so I don't need to worry about setting bevels etc.
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06-15-2009, 07:16 PM #13
If my bevel is set I use a bbw/coticule combo.... Coticule w/water to finish....Then some croOx on balsa if I'm feeling crazy... Then to the strops (newspaper first if I use croOx... Don't want my Tm latigo turning green).
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06-17-2009, 09:47 PM #14
I hone my razors on either natural stones (when I feel like a belgian fix) or Shaptons if I'm feeling more systematic. The blue belgian brings a dull edge up quickly and the coticule finishes it off. Strop with natural leather and I'm good to go. The Shaptons I use (for new razors or not so sharp razors) are the 8k, 16k, and 30k, joint on the edge and shave. No stropping needed. If I'm restoring a vintage razor, I have gone all the way down to 500grit Shapton and then on up. To me the most important thing is to set the bevel correctly.
My philosophy is to hone minimally. Less chance of things going awry. I get my razors sharp and then keep them there every week with a few licks from a stone. I keep a coticule/blue bout in my medicine cabinet so I don't have to go to the basement shop. Keeps me well shaven!
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06-18-2009, 12:49 AM #15