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07-14-2009, 10:34 AM #1
New to this community and have a question
I have used disposable razors for years and thought that they gave an acceptable quality shave. Have tried electrics but they were horrible in the closeness of shave delivered. Several months ago I thought about buying my first straight razor, being interested in the "romance" of using the straight razor, the tradition, the time honored closeness of all shaves. I have read many articles on the net about the art of straight razor shaving. Finally, I bought my first set: a Dovo Red Bismark 6/8 full hollow ground carbon steel razor, Col. Conk Amber glycerin soap, Red Latigo strop, Norton 4000/8000 stone, and a Rooney badger hair brush.
I have used this for approximately a month or so, shaving 8 or 10 times (my beard doesn't grow that fast). Thus far I have achieved a reasonable shave, but a couple of questions remain. My beard tends to be quite sensitive on the throat and that is where my main problem lies. It grows from left to right on the throat and I am having a devil of a time figuring out how to hold the blade for a proper ATG shave there. Also, while there is no problem shaving down the face from sideburn to jawline WTG and down the neck. I am having quite a bit of difficulty shaving up the face in the opposite direction.
I am looking for the ultimate baby butt shave and know that a straight razor can achieve this, but thus far I have been unable to atain this. I realize that there can be quite the learning curve with the straight razor, but there must be some tips out there that some of you more experienced users can provide.
Also, I ordered my set from Vintage Blades LLC. They stated my razor was "shave ready", but I'm dubious of this. How many shaves can you reasonably get out of a carbon steel blade before you have to re-hone it?
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Honer (07-14-2009)
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07-14-2009, 10:53 AM #2
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Thanked: 1903Welcome to SRP.
Nice setup, only the hone may not quite be what you need for your particular purpse, cf. What hone(s) do I need? - Straight Razor Place Wiki.
First, ATG is an advanced shaving technique, and requires an some experience, as well as optimum beard preparation and shaving technique. It took me about 6 months to really get there, and that was on top of several months of previous experimentation with WTG and XTG passes.
Second, you may find Shaving passes - Straight Razor Place Wiki useful, particularly the passages about skin stretching and blade angles.
There is only one real tip: Patience. Lynn has contributed some outstanding articles to the beginners section of the Wiki which you mind find worth reading.
That's actually an FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions - Straight Razor Place Wiki
We've tentatively put together a collection or articles for beginners. It is most certainly work in progress, but you might still find it helpful: Straight Razor Place Wiki:Books/Beginners Guide - Straight Razor Place Wiki. You can also download this file as a PDF by clicking here.
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FTG (07-15-2009)
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07-14-2009, 11:18 AM #3
+1 with the above. Also, face prep and stropping are just as important as the razor itself. The lather should be the consistency of whipped cream (the real stuff). We can't over-emphasize proper stropping for blade maintenance. Don't get hung up over draw. Otherwise you'll likely end up rolling the edge. Instead focus on technique. You should put just enough pressure on the razor to keep the blade flat on the strop surface, no more than that. Proper technique is far more important than speed. Your speed will come in time. Develop a good technique first.
You won't need a hone for quite some time unless you damaged your edge. Get a pasted strop first. The type is up to you and what you can afford.
And most important, enjoy yourself. I find shaving with my straight to be very enjoyable and relaxing. I look forward to each one....
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07-14-2009, 11:41 AM #4
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Thanked: 2Hi there,
This is a newbie helping a newbie. Or just words of encouragement. "DON'T QUIT" not that you were thinking of doing so but I had second thoughts. It was a rough road at the begining. but totaly worth it. I stopped using satey razors all together. Except one morning we got a rocket attack and had to shave on the way to the flight line while driving a HUMMV across bumpy desert. Im definatley not at that level yet. ANYWHO! I am never in a big hurry to shave and I always shave in two directions. First down (whole face and neck) that takes care of most and then Nose to Ear on both sides of face. neck and jaw line are tough depending on the shape of your face. not to mention it is not just tequnique involved but blade sharp ness too especialy for upwards and ATG stroke I just recently started doing these because I actually got my blade sharp enough. I guess there is no way I can explain how to shave your neck. I can only say this TAKE YOUR TIME. Frustraion is the devil and usally ends up with a good cut. just Keep trying different things slowly and you will find the right way. Maybe not today or this month but its coming and when you get there "TOTAL SATISFACTION" Good Luck, Nate
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Honer (07-14-2009)
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07-14-2009, 11:49 AM #5
+1 to all of the above.
One of the closest shaves I've ever had was at Trumpers barbers in London and I think the reason for it was that the barber spent ages on the beard prep.
First he put on loads of Trumpers skin food and wrapped my face in a hot (and I do mean hot!) towel and left it there for a good 10 minutes. Then he put on a bit more skin food and applied liberal amounts of lather over the top. When he made the passes (no ATG here by the way, WTG and XTG only!) he made sure he pulled the skin tight to get as close as possible. After the WTG first pass, more skin food and another hot towel plus 10 minute wait, then more skin food and lather before the second pass. Then afterwards he put on a cold towel for a few minutes to tighten the skin and pores. Now this was on a Saturday morning and I genuinely did not start to feel hair growth until the Monday morning, so it just shows how good a job he did...!
Now I know we dont all have the time to do this full workout each morning, but it does highlight the importance of good beard prep! So make sure you have a hot shower first, lather up with a well made, hot lather and then begin. Dont rush it!
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07-14-2009, 11:54 AM #6
All good advice given above. Here are just a few things that make a major difference but remember everything adds or detracts from the quality of shave.
Face prep is very important. The best way to prep is a hot shower and shave right after the shower. Everything in the straight straight razor world works best with the least amount of pressure you can manage. This goes for shaving, stropping and honing. When setting the bevel while honing a little pressure helps reduce the time to achieve you goal but that is not something you should be concerned with at this time. The angle you hold the blade at while shaving and the pressure you apply will cause irritation if not correct. While the razor blade is several inches long you will not have the entire edge in contact with your skin at all times if you go with a very light pressure, which is what you should be doing. Going over the same area several time and in different directions (WTG, XTG and AGT) helps cover those area.
Just shave from your sideburns to your jaw line and finish your share as you were before straights until you get really comfortable holding the razor and obtain a good shave and just go WTG. Move to the other side and then the neck after each step is comfortable. I shave in the evening when I have more time to enjoy the shave and pay attention to what I am doing.
Good luck and keep us abreast of your progress.“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)
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07-14-2009, 01:10 PM #7
On the neck, play around with how you stretch the skin. For me I found I needed to stretch it down and to the right for the right side of my neck-- once I found the right "stretch spot", all of the sudden I got a nice smooth pass with the razor.
Also, maybe think of doing not quite ATG pass-- two XTG passes coming from the opposite directions will get you a pretty darn close shave. Depending on how your hair grows that might make for easier passes due to the shape of the neck.
One last thing, check if your neck hair changes direction at a certain point (mine growns down/right for the upper neck, but then growns up/right for the lower neck) and change your WTG passes to match.
-Chief
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07-14-2009, 01:17 PM #8
Welcome, Being new I too had / have issues with the neck and chin. All I can truly say is as you continue to use a str8 you will become better at catching the correct angles and directions for each pass. Whatever you do be careful as you survey the landscape with blade in hand. One wrong move is all it takes for a nice cut (been there done that more than once). From my own experience every shave does seem to get better. Stay with it and again I say welcome.
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07-14-2009, 02:04 PM #9
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Thanked: 13245As mentioned before STROPPING is pretty important...
Beard prep and proper stretching, are also things to look at...
I think Chief is probably dead on with checking the way the beard hair grows I know mine does some weird stuff...
Starting with a shave ready razor like you did was smart but keeping it shave ready is all about proper STROPPING in fact STROPPING is probably the least emphasized skill to new guys where in all actuality it is the most important one to learn correctly...
Oh yeah one other thing, if you find the shave closeness slipping you might try more correct STROPPING....
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07-14-2009, 03:06 PM #10
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