Thread: Newbie seeking advice

Hi all,

Wanted to introduce myself, and wanted to seek your feedback regarding my first straight razor shave.

First, some background: I've been DE shaving for a few months, and my technique has improved to the point that I have been consistently getting close to BBS shaves with 3 passes - WTG, XTG and ATG. As well, I understand the importance of prep and lather. I use mainly AoS and T&H creams, and face lather with a Vulfix 377 Super badger brush. Hardware consists of Merkur 38c barberpole with Feather blades.

I've been itching to try straight razor shaving, and after lurking here for several weeks, have acquired a Le Grelot 3/4 grind (shave ready) from Rasurpur, as well as Filly strop from KenRup. Intent is to use the straight on the weekend, until I get comfortable enough to use it every day. I have no intention of getting into honing right now - maybe a few months down the road when I am more comfortable. I've read the wiki, Lynn's advice re: first shave, watched a few videos on youtube incl Mantic/Joel, and yesterday, proceeded to my first straight shave. The Grelot had oil on it, which I wiped off with a tissue. Did not strop prior to first shave.

The results were, in a word, horrible! I had a day and a half of stubble, may have rushed the prep a bit due to excitement. Started on right cheek WTG (I'm right handed), felt some pulling and tugging. Managed to achieve a good amount of reduction, but as I got closer to the jawbone area, tugging worsened. Moved to the left cheek (still using right hand), found it more difficult to achieve a shallow angle, but still managed a good amount of reduction. Decided to be adventurous and go for the full face. Found it difficult to get the correct angle under the nose. Chin was impossible, I have very thick growth there. Neck was ok, but did not achieve as much beard reduction. Tried to keep angle of blade around 30degrees or less, but was not possible in all areas. At various points, the blade would get caught and dig in.

Then, I lathered up a second time, and did another WTG pass. The blade moved more easily on the cheek, since there was less growth to go through, but still pulled on chin, jawbone, and neck. I ended up with a few weepers that mostly closed with a cold water splash, but my face *felt* like it had a million cuts in it. I actually felt it all over when I applied Neutrogena razor defence ASB, and I have never before felt a sting with this ASB.

To finish, I wiped the blade clean with a tissue, and stropped it on the Filly for 10 round trips and put it away. I think my stropping motion needs to get a lot better, but should not have been a factor for the first shave.

So, any thoughts, or suggestions, for improving the next shave? Thanks.

what kind of beard prep do you do?
did you strop before using the razors for the first time?
if you have a CrO strop run the raror on it and then strop on leather strop and try again.

I hate to do it, but I must start with a question... was the razor you got from rasprur pre-honed, or did you just buy it in new condition? If it didn't specifically say it was professionally honed it may not have been shave-ready sharp. (disclaimer... I have never dealt with them and I don't know anything about the condition of their razors when they leave the shop)

As for suggestions, first off I'd say to never cheat yourself by rushing your beard prep. This goes double for your first straight shave. The other suggestion is to go slow and not expect perfection right away. It looks like you've been doing your homework, with patience and some care you'll get there.

Cheers

Dave

Being new don't worry too much about the first time. Being over excited (or in a rush) with a straight can be a problem if not dangerous. Make sure of your beard prep and lathering, Strop the blade and begin. When you begin to shave and its pulling adjust your skin stretching and change your angle with the blade ever so slightly. Use both hands with your razor pending on where you are shaving. Yes you have a dominate hand but if you start using both now it will be less of an issue in the future. Take your time you will learn as you go. Reread the stuff in the WIKI Try using less pressure also. It takes time but this is an art not just a shave and you will love it as you learn.


+1 on sharpness "shave ready" isn't always it's better to have one professionally sharpened then you can judge others from that standard.

Martin always hones the razors before they go out.

Originally Posted by Del1r1um

I hate to do it, but I must start with a question... was the razor you got from rasprur pre-honed, or did you just buy it in new condition? If it didn't specifically say it was professionally honed it may not have been shave-ready sharp. (disclaimer... I have never dealt with them and I don't know anything about the condition of their razors when they leave the shop)

As for suggestions, first off I'd say to never cheat yourself by rushing your beard prep. This goes double for your first straight shave. The other suggestion is to go slow and not expect perfection right away. It looks like you've been doing your homework, with patience and some care you'll get there.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Yes, will certainly be more patient with prep next time. And yes, expectations are lowered for first time, I was not expecting anywhere close to BBS, but was not prepared for the sensation of blade scraping against the face I even felt the sting with just a splash of cold water. I probably overdid it a bit by doing the whole face as well.

Del1r1um - yes, blade was supposed to be "shave ready", I exchanged emails with Martin at Rasupur, he said he does what he needs to do to make them shave ready.

mainaman - I've tried various things for prep, but what I've settled on is to wash my face with a mild soap (or face wash) and hot water. I usually leave the soap or wash in and let it soak for a few min, usually while I brush my teeth, then rinse with hot water. This is my daily prep with DE.
And, I did not strop the razor first time I used it - this was especially because I didn't want to ruin the edge by incorrect stropping. I stropped for 10 laps *after* the shave prior to putting it away.

Originally Posted by closer

probably overdid it a bit by doing the whole face as well.

Give Lynn's suggestions in the first shave thread a try and take your time getting used to the razor. Use the skin stretching techniques you've read about on the forum tutorials with the DE to begin to get used to that too. When you read that there is a learning curve it really is the truth. I finished my straight shaves with a DE my first two or three weeks and eventually shed the training wheels and haven't looked back but it takes time.

+1 to JimmyHAD

When I started, for the first couple shaves, I only did down to the jaw line. Even doing only the cheek, there was a bit of discomfort at first.

One thing I think that contributed to that was pressure. With other razors, pushing the razor against the skin a bit wasn't a big deal, but with the straight, you kinda want it to glide across your skin, barely touching it.

Also, the stretching makes a HUGE difference as well.

On top of that, is the learning curve.

Take your time Don't be afraid to splash your face with hot water and re-lather in the middle of a shave. I know for me, I went slow and careful, so the lather dried out a bit, and my face cooled down.

The chin is certainly one of the more difficult areas to do well, and without weepers, as is the neck and jawline.

After a couple months now, I've noticed my speed has increased a good bit, and I can now shave my whole face with the straight, without the cartridge razor.

Do more sections as you get more comfortable

1) cheeks,

2) coup de maitre,

3) upper chin,

4)jawline,

5)neck.

That's the order in which I progressed over my face for the most part (coup de maitre was not done at the time cause I had a moustache.)

Good luck, and stick with it! It will come, I promise Soon you will be a Jedi Master

Closer, I wish I had saved my first post....had something to do with my intent to toss my straight razor and all the appurtenances in the can. The replies to my post were more soothing than the after shave burn.

That was 8 months ago. Now, I only use a straight (6 days a week and when travelling), and while I have been thrilled with the results for some months, my shaves keep getting better.

Somehow it happens. All the variables are moving around for you....shave prep, angle, cream/soap, and technique. You settle in, develope muscle memory and one day you realize you are doing it.

Other than encouragement, I can offer little of value. Heed the advice, experiment carefully and keep at it. Best..........J

Angle is very important- too perpendicular and you start to scrape, too shallow and you won't cut right. For WTG you want a slightly steeper angle, ATG a shallower one. That's something I had to learn. Also I could be completely BSing this but I could have sworn that I've seen many DE shavers that make their lather too thick, and while I wasn't a DE shaver, this was a problem for me too. Try adding a touch more water maybe?