Thread: help needed...considering giving up!

Hi there. Im on about my third month of straight razor shaving. I have been a wet shaver all my life, and was having spectacular DE shaves prior to the switch. I gave that up for the lust of the straight....

I have made great improvements, and have learnt a great deal, but i have hit a huge brick wall and this is wearing me down. Im close to jacking it all in and i need help...

I have a Wapi that I purchased shave ready from the Invisible Edge. I strop on canvas and leather approx 50x each prior to shave, and then again 20-30 of each after the shave. Im pretty certain that my stropping technique is sound.

Last month I felt that the edge needed a refresh, and so i purchased a nanwia 12k which seemed to work really well at bringing back the edge. I felt the difference. (Having said that there are 2 or 3 very small but visible chips/imperfections along the edge, which the 12k was unable to get out.) Again, im pretty certain that my honing technique is sound.

I know my shave prep is good. Always hot shower taking extra time to soften beard, followed by a good amount of face lathering time with a EJ best badger brush and quality products such as trumpers creams, soaps, castle forbes or tabac etc.

So the actual shave....

I shave every other day (all my life, my skin has been in better condition if i shave every other day as opposed to every day...this seems to be no different with the straight).

My beard is very coarse. I am the stereotypical dark, thick haired greek...i liken my beard to that of Steve Carell if that helps the description.

I get very good shaves on my cheeks. WTG, XTG (both directions). My neck is acceptible (always have been very sensitive there). The problem areas are the chin and just under the jaw line.

Fristly, regarding the chin...the first WTG pass is a decent pass. I get good easy beard reduction. But the problems begin trying to get any closer than that. It seems no matter the blade angle, no matter the cut direction, no matter the pressure i use, no matter where i pull my skin, or how hard i pull, the hairs will not cut well at all. ATG is the only thing that works, but my god does it tear my skin up. I get nicks all across my chin that way. I end up spending a solid 5 mins doing touch up passes on small patches of my chin, shredding up the skin as i go. Even then the results are patchy. Im not even searching for BBS here...simply a good, even shave! This was never ever a problem with my DE. Even a gilette sensor excel used to do a far superior job! I know people will probably tell me that for ATG passes you need to reduce the blade angle, reduce pressure etc...but i really have tried everything! I doesnt work!

Regarding just below my jaw line. I have very hard to reach spots...where no matter how i position my blade, I cannot get a good cut. I pull the skin upwards, downwards, angle my head in thousands of different positions...Just cant get the right position. I always end up with a rough patch in this position on both sides of my face, with the surrounding skin a little raw from trying to get to them.

As I said, the shave on my cheeks is great, but these two problem areas are frustrating me tremendously. Last night I almost threw my razor against the wall in anger. Ill repeat that im not even going for BBS. I just want them smooth and not randomly patchy. So I would really appreciate your input. Do i persevere? Or do I go back to my DE where I can get perfect shaves every time with perfect skin to show for it (not sexy, but very effective)?

Many thanks in advance.

i go head and say (although i know i will get blame) first your razor is not shave ready. Second you dont have qualty blade. resolve your problem you need to get your blade sharpen some honers which will help you to see and feel how shave ready blade looks like. Lastly when you are in good financial situation please buy qality blade..(i should say this at the momentwhat i think about wapi. i am inprocess testing new wapi .will have definitley opinion about it in a mounth .gl

It might be worthwhile investing in another blade. From what I understand Wapi's are a good blade (mine is in the process of being customised), but might be a bit of challenge if it is your first honing attempt.

I have had some success with Bengall blades and I am sure some more senior members can recommend a other brand that might be worth a look.

Ohhh....and don't give up!!!!!

Originally Posted by hippy

Regarding just below my jaw line. I have very hard to reach spots...where no matter how i position my blade, I cannot get a good cut. I pull the skin upwards, downwards, angle my head in thousands of different positions...Just cant get the right position. I always end up with a rough patch in this position on both sides of my face, with the surrounding skin a little raw from trying to get to them.

If you're not already doing this, I suggest trying to use both hands. When I first started, I found it difficult to shave those same areas until I started using my left hand (I'm right-handed). Now, I use my left hand just as much as my right, and my shaves have improved dramatically.

Also, getting a good shave-ready razor might help. I suggest getting one of Ken Rup's (RupRazor) Gold Dollar razors -- you get a new, shave-ready razor for $45.

Good luck! Please don't give up. In the end, it will be worth the effort. Keep us advised of your progress.

thanks very much for the input so far. To clarify, I do already use both hands without any preference for one hand over the other.

I have had a similar problem with the patch beneath my bottom lip. Gillete, DE, Straight, Sensor, SE, nothing seems to be able to get that patch smooth, no matter how I stretch the skin, no matter how many passes from a dozen different angles I try. I have just kind of grown to accept it. But if you have had good results in the past... You really might just be better off going back if you enjoyed the shave just as much.

Hi Hippy,

If the blade is in question I'd just get one of these:

RupRazor - Gold Dollar

Cheap and cheerful. I've had some of the best shaves of my life with a cheap gold dollar.

My advice - watch the videos again; read the wikis again; sit on the couch with a blunt razor practicing all the strokes/techniques;

and I'd suggest using cold water. It tightens the face, there's no burn afterwards, you have to use a good technique or it won't work, and it's very refreshing.

All the best

Rob

Originally Posted by DPflaumer

I have had a similar problem with the patch beneath my bottom lip.
nothing seems to be able to get that patch smooth, no matter how I stretch the skin, no matter how many passes from a dozen different angles I try. I have just kind of grown to accept it.

ATG too?

message too short

Yep. Every angle, all kinds of stretching, everything. Some days I just directly to the ATG pass and just try three of those instead. No matter what, it just won't come smooth. It isn't really a big deal like the chin would be, but it is slightly frustrating all the same.

The sharper the blade the closer the shave. IME this applies even more around the Adam's apple. Too many passes and you cut your skin up.

A razor that lacks a bit in sharpness gets you great results on the cheeks but much less under the chin is my experience.

I have always had great shaves from my Wapi but IME again, you get better edges with with higher grit hones or pasted strops. If that does not work try a razor with harder steel, e.g. a Friodur.

There may be a honemeister near where you live that might help you out before you start investing heavily.

My 2 cts.