Results 21 to 30 of 39
Thread: Straight Razor Care, Oiling
-
12-01-2009, 07:59 PM #21
-
The Following User Says Thank You to TheBaron For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-01-2009, 08:06 PM #22
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Posts
- 186
Thanked: 20Skip the "razor oil". I just use a bottle of johnson's baby oil AKA mineral oil... 5$ for more than half a liter... should last you a good while...
-
12-01-2009, 08:28 PM #23
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Posts
- 80
Thanked: 11i usually wipe mine dry after i shave, then put a little Vaseline on the blade. i dont store it in my bathroom because of all the moisture that stays in there, especially after a shower therefore i just keep it in my room.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to chris21908 For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-01-2009, 08:37 PM #24
-
The Following User Says Thank You to TheBaron For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-02-2009, 03:31 AM #25
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Posts
- 80
Thanked: 11
-
The Following User Says Thank You to chris21908 For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-02-2009, 05:38 AM #26
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Northern California
- Posts
- 1,301
Thanked: 267There are other issues besides rust and one is oxidation, which I guess is really rust. A razor with a polished finish will dull eventually. I use Ballistol and it has worked wonders with my razors. Eventually you will get a spot, or whatever, on your prized carbon steel razor if you do not oil it. I run the blade under hot water then dry it and leave it open on a towel while I clean up my brush and bowls. I then go back and oil it with an applicator. Another benefit that I am finding is that my edges seem to stay sharper longer because there is no oxidation attacking the cutting edge between shaves.
Take Care,
Richard
-
The Following User Says Thank You to riooso For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-02-2009, 03:47 PM #27
My little FYI that I always drag out on these oiling threads..!
When you apply the oil, do so sparingly. If you put on too much you could stain scales that are made out of wood or bone, or some other porous material.
If you do stain your scales you can get it off by opening the razor out straight, wrapping the blade in a thick cloth, wrapping the scales in a tissue and leaving the razor on a warm radiator. The heat will sweat the oil out of the scales, or most of it at any rate..!
Back to the topic: Oiling is good for long term storage, but I dont oil mine as they are in fairly constant use. Plus I dont keep them in the bathroom and the UK is not too humid!
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Stubear For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
12-03-2009, 12:30 AM #28
I read somewhere that rust pits start to form almost immediately if not coated with oil. And, that the rust is not typically visible to the eye. The article was actually a fairly long article and study from I think the 1930s or 1940s which used microscope views. The conclusion was that rust pitting was almost as much an enemy of the quality of the edge as shaving.
Has anyone else heard the same thing?
-
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to LarryAndro For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009), cyphen21 (08-25-2014)
-
12-03-2009, 02:05 AM #29
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Northern California
- Posts
- 1,301
Thanked: 267I have wooden scales and some 100 year old acetate scales and Ballistol has yet to cause a problem after more than about a year of daily use. I am telling you when you get a carbon straight that is over $300 USD or a custom that little spot will drive you insane.......OUT DAMN SPOT, OUT!
Take Care,
Richard
-
The Following User Says Thank You to riooso For This Useful Post:
cutter2001 (12-03-2009)
-
02-13-2015, 05:21 AM #30
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Location
- United States
- Posts
- 10
Thanked: 0Metal polish?
What are your thoughts on maybe not a oil but a metal polish like flitz, or is this overkill