Thread: A couple of question

Sorry to hear about your bad cut. Hopefully you took measures to prevent further accidents.

I wear towel when I shave and dry my hands there continuously. This also improves the grip. If the tang gets wet, dry it too, carefully. It's perfectly possible to rinse the blade without getting the pivot wet - I hold the razor toe down (maybe 60 degree angle from the floor) and bring it spine-first under the faucet, observing how the water flows around the blade. Too fast streaming water just goes everywhere, so I use a small stream.

Hey Daniel! Total newb, but here's my .02.

I find it *much* more likely that the post screwed up, honestly. It's not that hard to send a package, and as long as they have the right address, there's nothing for them to mess up.

The post, on the other hand, is far more fallible and stuff gets lost all the time. I don't know what, if any, sort of tracking RupRazor puts on their packages, but do email them and ask. Double-check the address they have, and if they do have tracking try and find out where that package went.

As others have said, you can try polishing out the rust spots, but it may affect the gold etching. I am unaware of any less abrasive, DIY alternatives. Alternately, you could just leave it be. As long as you are very careful to keep the razor dry, they shouldn't get worse, and if it's not on the edge of the razor it doesn't affect your shave. It's just a cosmetic thing.

Olive oil should be fine, but if you're keeping it as dry as it should be I don't think it would be needed.

What I did when I first used my razor (before immediately rolling the edge and needing to send it to be honed ) was wipe it off, then dip the blade only in water (that way there was no chance of dinging it on a tap, and I could control how much of it got wet), and then dry it very thoroughly with a towel. I also wiped off whatever water got on the scales, and used some tissue paper to dry INSIDE the scales.

My dear DanielG,

As many learned gentlemen on the forum have pointed out, rinse the blade (I rinse mine by holding the razor by the shank) with hot water and dry it. Keep water away from the pivot area and the scales.

I also run a sheet of Cleanex up and down between the scales to further pick up any moisture. Then I strop the razor (15 canvas, 30 leather), apply a light touch of oil and leave the razor partly open for two or three hours before putting it in the rack.

To avoid the cuts, maintain a light touch throughout the shave, be aware of the razor angle, and take your time. Rather than a sprint to the finish line, think of straight razor shaving as a stroll down a path in a lovely park. Preferably, of course, in the company of a stunning woman.

Enjoy the ritual of such traditional shaving. You will be rewarded.

Regards,

Obie

You guys are definitely right and there is a learning curve. Thank you all so much very helpful advice.

I am wondering tho, i was reading through the guides a while back and it was written that one of the advantages of straight razor shaving is the lack of irritation. Admittedly i don't get any except on the mustache and i think its because it takes several tries WTG/ATG. Is this a regular occurrence or am i doing something wrong.
Actually that is the second reason why i picked up SRS i hate having bumps and redness on the face after what used to be a chore.

so, you don't have a strop yet???

stop using the razor, i am pretty sure it is not suitable for shaving anymore and it may already need not just stropping, but honing.

I think the rust issue is a result of improper drying. I live in south Louisiana, and it doesn't get much more humid than it does here, and I keep my razors in my bathroom with no problems with rust. I never oil my blades, but I do dry them extremely well and I store them in a partially open position. I really think that if you pay close attention to your drying technique the rust problems will go away. And if you slow down on your shaving, it just might go better. I've been shaving with straights for quite a while and get consistently good shaves without getting cuts, but even now, with experience, it often takes me 30 minutes to shave. I take it slow and easy and enjoy the experience. Good luck with it all and let us know how it goes.

Guigi: How would I know if it needs honing given that I don't have a strop? Sadly i have stopped, i don't think i could go back to regular safe razor shaving...i tried it and it was so...regular.
I was wondering, if you hone a lot, meaning 200+ strokes would that not be like honing because it still sharpens no?

sffone: your right and the ritual is awesome, i don't think i could go back to regular shaving its so much fun and so neat and perfect when you get it right that it feels like an accomplishment.

Originally Posted by DanielG

How would I know if it needs honing given that I don't have a strop?

I don't think it's possible to shave on daily basis with a cutthroat razor if you can't strop the razor between shaves. Without coming to grief of some sort.

Originally Posted by DanielG

Guigi: How would I know if it needs honing given that I don't have a strop? Sadly i have stopped, i don't think i could go back to regular safe razor shaving...i tried it and it was so...regular.
I was wondering, if you hone a lot, meaning 200+ strokes would that not be like honing because it still sharpens no?

Well, you wouldn't know. Also 200 strokes is not too much. A member, mparker762 has posted about stropping a slightly dull razor to shave again and that was about 1500 laps on I believe linen (more abrasive than cotton). If I'm not mistaken he dulled the razor by cutting a piece of cardboard, which is not the same as the damage from oxidation, which can get pretty bad unless the razor is stropped regularly.

It's really hard to tell what is the condition of the edge, but it will definitely need at least good stropping. If the oxidation has microchipped the edge the shave will be a bit rough until it gets rehoned.

Originally Posted by gugi

Well, you wouldn't know. Also 200 strokes is not too much. A member, mparker762 has posted about stropping a slightly dull razor to shave again and that was about 1500 laps on I believe linen (more abrasive than cotton). If I'm not mistaken he dulled the razor by cutting a piece of cardboard, which is not the same as the damage from oxidation, which can get pretty bad unless the razor is stropped regularly.

It's really hard to tell what is the condition of the edge, but it will definitely need at least good stropping. If the oxidation has microchipped the edge the shave will be a bit rough until it gets rehoned.

A friend sent me a razor with oxidation on the edge the other day and the edge looked like a the edges of a peppermint that had been sucked on for 35 minutes or so... It was really eye-opening to see what it does (he didn't have a strop either). I have rehoned it and included a TM practice strop to go along with it...