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02-15-2010, 04:51 AM #1
Razor Burn and resulting acne from ATG
Good evening gents,
I've gotten my second set of razor burn and Resulting minor acne from ATG, so I thoughtid throw up my technique and ask you experts before I decide to throw in the ATG towel and go WTG from now on.
My skin is relatively sensitive to funky frangrances, so I go minimal or frangrance free in general. I'm using Lavendar shaving soap from the art of shaving, and do not use a pre oil or post shave lotion, since my face doesn't tend to like oils in general. Here's my simple step by step, I appreciate any feedback you have!
- hot shower
- 10 strop on linen, 25 on leather, hot rinse with soap and water of the blade
- hot water on the badger brush on the face
- add the shaving soap, put it under hot water, lather up
- shave WTG (I'm a little slow so I try to lather while moving along). I use light, short strokes for thr most part but long on easy spots
- lather up again and then ATG
- cold water on the face, wash with a salycilic acid soap, pat tend skin on there when dry, clean up my mess and move on
My thoughts are I should stop ATG and just do across (I forget the acronym) or another WTG pass. I worry sometimes I maybe going across areas I miss quickly, and since I don't use an oil, it might be dry shaving too, so I'll keep am eye on that.
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02-15-2010, 07:32 AM #2
You could try a little extra stropping, I go 25-linen, 50-leather. Also, razor burn is almost always a sign of too much pressure, ATG requires a very light touch. I'm not familiar with the soap you're using at the end but maybe withdraw that and replace with an Alum block, see if that's better. Having given you three variables, I should say, it's normally best to concentrate on one of them at a time, introduce too many and you're never sure what's doing what. If you eventually have to ditch the ATG pass, don't feel too bad about it, many don't use it (or even see the need) and you can always reintroduce it into your routine at a later date if you want. Hope this helps and good luck.
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02-15-2010, 07:39 AM #3
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Upper Middle Slobovia NY
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Thanked: 480Things to try include...
COLD WATER Shaving! *makes my skin crawl thinking about it, but I hear its great for this problem
adjust the angle of your razor for against the grain. Its normally a different angle than you use with the grain.
and MOISTURIZE! You just finished a major exfoliation of your facial skin, and your going to walk away without putting on a good moisturizing cream?
Thats asking for dry skin, itching, and possible infections.
Hope things go smoother for you.
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02-15-2010, 07:45 AM #4
Hi,
When I get some irritation on my neck, I miss out the ATG pass for a few days.
I use to be obsessive about getting BBS with every shave, but then common sense took over; I would rather have a comfortable, slightly stubbly neck, then a BBS red inflamed one
Have fun !
best regards
Russ
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02-15-2010, 10:05 AM #5
I'd avoid the ATG pass.
I cant do ATG at all, for the same reason. It just ruins my skin, and in fact a master barber at Trumpers told me never to shave ATG as it will damage the skin and give you razor burn and possibly spots.
I can get a BBS shave with a mix of WTG and XTG passes.
Dont use cold water, use plenty of hot water and lather, and re-lather between passes. If you go back to an area to touch it up, add more lather. Basically, whenever you put blade to skin make sure theres lather there as well..!
Something else to try; Have your shower and all the usual prep but add two lots of lather with a hot towel in between. So what you do is lather up, stick a hot towel over the top, wipe off all the old lather, re-apply more and then start shaving.
You could also try using Trumpers skin food as an AS balm, it works very well for me! The other option is to use a pre-shave oil or apply a little olive oil to the skin before the lather to add glide and further soften the beard.
Good luck!
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02-15-2010, 10:35 AM #6
I avoid shaving ATG in areas where I know I might get razor burn. I know it goes against conventional thinking, but I've found that hot towels, showers etc seem to open up the pores too much and increases the sensitivity of my skin to razor burn. I tend to favour somewhat cooler lather and water for shaving.
Nothing to do with shaving, but many years ago a chemist told me that if you get any chemicals or other toxic substance on the skin, use very cold water to wash it off as it closes up the pores.'Living the dream, one nightmare at a time'
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02-15-2010, 10:42 AM #7
Just keep shaving. The possibilities as you see above are endless. Just go wtg and xtg for a while and as your technique improves ( as it will have to do if you just keep it up ) you will most likely be able to go atg on a regular basis. After 3 years of daily atg, I can say that it does not cause skin damage, razor burn, spots, etc... Make sure you have good soap and good lathermaking technique. I only use Mama Bear, The Gentleman's Quarter or Proraso. Getting advice on the forum is good, but it is more important to just persist, and do what works for you. This is determined by daily persistence and trial and error.
Scott
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02-15-2010, 10:53 AM #8
I can do against the grain with a DE, but it leaves me pretty raw. I have not really been able to go ATG with a straight, and really don't feel the need to. This falls into the discussion of how bent upon getting a BBS. As far as something to soothe after the shave, try Corn Husker's, as it is oil free. If you get irritated going ATG, then don't do it. I am the same way, so I avoid this pass. If I get brave on occasion and try it, I pay for it throughout the day. It's like being surprised when someone goes sailing out of a luge track. I know the danger is there.
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02-15-2010, 03:42 PM #9
I concur with this statement. Don't try to make the "pull" noticeable. It will be there. Don't rush throught the stropping either. Take your time. Fast doesn't give better results. Technique gives better results.
Facial prep and good lather are imprtant as well. Use a lesser angle with ATG. And, as already mentioned, use just enough pressure to keep the blade against your face, not force it to cut through the whiskers. If your blade is shave ready, it will do so on its own.
Above all, take your time and enjoy the shave...
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02-15-2010, 04:25 PM #10
I think using sal. acid soap AND tend skin after you shave is contributing to some irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you think about it, you're using 2 forms of a chemical exfoliant after you've already "manually" exfoliated your skin from shaving. I'd lay off using those products after you shave and just use some kind of after shave. I'll +1 the rec. for Trumper's skin food. If you have acne, just try using one of your acne treatment products at night before bed (assuming you shave in the morning). This way, you can give your skin some time to recover before you apply an acne spot treatment. Hope this helps
-Chris