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  1. #1
    Junior Member Bevo's Avatar
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    Feb 2010
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    Default Initial Hone setup question

    What do you guys think of this potential set up? I am new and trying to balance cost with getting the job done. I was thinking of getting a hone to get started. What do you think of getting a DMT Dia-sharp 8000 (never needs lapping and $70) and a C12K (Woodcraft $20), I will then finish on 1 micron diamond and 0.5 CrOx on a pasted strop. I like the norton 4/8k, but then I either have to get the set with the lapping stone or figure out how to lap it (some say before each use). Let me know if I've missed the boat.

  2. #2
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Jun 2007
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    Blog Entries

    Talking One more time

    Read this... I wrote it just for your questions in mind

    A condensed version is in the Wiki too

    Some thoughts on honing razors..


    Aspiring honers are often not clear about what they are trying to accomplish when it comes to honing razors. In particular, they are often unsure of what they are doing and how often they should be doing it. Some questions you might want to answer for yourself before you start buying hones: My suggestion is always to wait about 6 months before jumping into honing razors so you can actually answer the questions below....

    ■ Are you an "end-user"; someone who only hones a previously shave-ready blade back to shave-ready?
    ■ Are you a hobbyist who is chasing the absolute finest edge that may be obtained where money is no object?
    ■ Are you a frugal shaver who is after the cheapest way to complete your morning shave?
    ■ Are you a collector who needs to take E-bay specials from butt-ugly to shave-ready?
    ■ Are you a Honemiester; someone who gets paid to do all of these things for others?
    ■ Are you a razor restorer who needs to take damaged blades and bring them back to life and shave-readiness?

    Each of these types of honer profiles have different requirements for the stones they will own. Theoretically, you can survive using the "one stone" approach, but each razor does have an optimum stone set - and more importantly, a technique for using the required hones. So generally, when somebody asks what stone or how to use what stone, the question to ask them is: "What are you trying to accomplish with the stone(S)?"

    Refreshing vs. Starting from Scratch:

    The types of hones required depends first and foremost on the type of honing you want to do.

    Hones needed for refreshing a dull blade:
    If the only task you want to perform is refreshing edges that have previously been established by a Honemiester (the process is often referred to as "touching up"), you need only get a fine grit finishing stone or a barber's hone for this. Either of these hones can be used to keep your razor(s) shave-ready for years.

    Hones needed for restoring razors:
    If you want to set a bevel, or have many different types of razors, you will need a full set of hones.

    A bevel setting stone approximately 1k
    DMT's 325 600 1200, Shapton 500, 1K and 2K, Coticules with slurry, Norton 1k, Naniwa 1k

    A sharpening stone approximately 4k

    Norton 4K, Shapton 4K Naniwa 3k or 5k, Belgian Blue with slurry

    A polishing stone approximately 8k
    Norton 8k, Shapton 8k, Naniwa 8k, Yellow Coticule

    A finishing stone 10k and above (this is often subject to debate, however)

    Shapton GS 16k-30k Shapton 15k Naniwa SS 10k-12k or Chosera 12k, Thuringens, Escher's, Many different natural Japanese finishers, Charlney Forest, Extra Fine Coticule, even some of the Arkansas stones...

    You have several choices of how to accomplish this setup whether you use natural, man-made stone, or a Diamond-style stone, but you are going to have to be able to cover those 4 grit ranges. There really is no true shortcut here if you expect to take razors acquired in need of restoration from butter knife dull (or damaged) to shaving sharp: You are going to end up needing these types of stones. This can also be accomplished with the judicious use of a slurry but essentially you are still going through these grit stages...

    Pastes can be used after the hones and before the final stropping also these can be used for re-freshing the edge before going back to the hones for a touch-up...

    A few different types

    Dovo Pastes:

    Green 5-8 micron
    Red 3-5 micron
    Black 1-3 micron
    Dovo pastes are a much more mild cutter then say a diamond paste of the same micron size...

    Diamond Paste:

    From 3 micron down to actually .10 micron if you really wanted to...
    These pastes are fast and many people use them incorrectly and manage too get a harsh edge, when used correctly and on the right razor steel these will most likely be the sharpest edge you will ever feel...

    Diamond sprays:

    Mostly found in 1.0 .50 and .25 micron watch the Carat content here, the higher the better (SRD has the best I have found and yes Lynn and Don are friends of mine, but heck it is still the best spray I have found)

    Chromium Oxide Paste/Powder .50 micron (CrOx)
    Probably the most universal of the pastes, get the most pure you can find, and no the bars at Woodcrafters are not pure...

    Cerium Oxide Paste/Powder (approx).25 micron (CeOx)

    Super fine, super soft, and super smooth, polishing media...The bar at Woodcrafter's is of unknown quality at this time

    Other Pastes and Powders:

    Iron Oxide
    Aluminum Oxide

    Both of these can also be used again be very careful when buying this stuff as the purity and the micron sizes are very important...

    Carbon blacking/lamp black:

    This might be the oldest of all the sharpening "pastes" when used on a leather strop it increases draw

    Wood Ash:

    Another old fashioned one very slightly abrasive when used on Linen strops and Leather strops..

    White chalk:

    Can be rubbed on a linen strop to increase the abrasive qualities


    The ink itself is a very fine abrasive and so is the paper..

    Keep in mind that different razor steels like/dislike different pastes, and the different media that is used to apply it including Balsa, Linen, Leather (paddle) Leather (hanger) and Felt paddle and hanger all give different results on different razor steels....

    The above are only my personal opinions and observations... There are no set rules in Razordom...

    PS: I did not include Flims as I do not have much knowledge in their use... There are also many other stones that could fit in here But again I haven't even used them once let alone have true knowledge of them so I did not include them...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 03-08-2010 at 07:01 PM.

  3. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    Bevo (03-08-2010), Bladerunner (03-08-2010), Bruce (03-08-2010), hardblues (03-08-2010), LarryAndro (03-08-2010), rsteve (03-08-2010)

  4. #3
    all your razor are belong to us red96ta's Avatar
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    +1 what he said

  5. #4
    Texas Guy from Missouri LarryAndro's Avatar
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    GSSixGun, what a masterpiece of a response! And, not being facetious.

    Back on message...

    I really like the 0.3 micron chromium oxide and 0.1 (actually 0.09) micron ferrous oxide from Kremer pigments. Very pure!

    The 0.1 micron ferrous oxide is basically jeweler's rouge. It is only slightly more abrasive, in my opinion, that the untreated strop. But, it really polishes the bevel. Especially when it's use follows diamond, I believe it reduces the harshness sometimes reported when diamond is used.

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Thumbs up A beginners goldmine

    Well said, Glen.

  7. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    +1 to what Glen said!
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

  8. #7
    Pit Bull Lover & Trout Terrorist hardblues's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Puts it all right there...thanks Glen!
    Courage is what it takes to stand up and speak; courage is also what it takes to sit down and listen.

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