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  1. #11
    lz6
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    Senior Moderator lz6's Avatar
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    Just a question, I have been using the Japanese camellia oil very sparingly
    on all my straight razors. But, I use "Tuf-Cloth Multi-Purpose Dry Protectant" on my hunting knives and some of my shotguns has anyone had experience with this product on a straight razor blade could it cause issues since it is more than just an oil? Thanks for any help.
    Bob

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lz6 View Post
    Just a question, I have been using the Japanese camellia oil very sparingly
    on all my straight razors. But, I use "Tuf-Cloth Multi-Purpose Dry Protectant" on my hunting knives and some of my shotguns has anyone had experience with this product on a straight razor blade could it cause issues since it is more than just an oil? Thanks for any help.
    Bob
    At one level a razor is steel. If you get good
    results on your hunting knife steel you can
    expect to get a good result on a steel razor.

    They state that it is non toxic once dry which is
    a good thing.

    Since you have camellia oil are you thinking of switching?

    Note that stropping and honing will remove the thin
    protective layer so a lite application of either
    after honing or stropping will still be needed.

    Tuf-Cloth seems to be a natural for those that
    take days to hand sand and polish a blade.

  3. #13
    lz6
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    Thanks Tom. I was just interested in finding out if there might be some advantage to dry protectant for some reason over the normally used oils.
    I will stick with the Japanese oil I use because it is tried and true. This dry protectant seems to take things to a whole new level of chemistry which is what got me curious about it and possible interactions with basic steel razor blade.

  4. #14
    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    ++++1 on the advice on what type of oil ought to be used to lubricate your razor. Camelia, or mineral oil will do the job. I use Camelia oil most of the time.. Don't use too much though.

    I also occasionally apply some "Tuff-Glide" to my razor at the point where the blade pivots in the scales. Again, a little goes a long way.
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

  5. #15
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubear View Post
    The tissue wont damage the edge, just make sure you dont slice yourself when you clean it.
    Sorta true... Unless you regularly drag the edge thru tissue. Plant fibres can actually have quite a dulling effect on edges.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  6. #16
    Member aznaod7's Avatar
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    tnx for asking this question. i love SRP. i learn new thigns everytime i come on to read threads. when i think up a question, about to ask it, look aroudn a bit before hand i ALWAYS find it with plenty of good answers alreay. THANK YOU FOR THIS SITE!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doop View Post
    I then put a film of mineral oil on the blade and put it away.
    Marc,
    When you say a "film," do you mean you put on just a drop then make sure it's spread across the blade?

    Also, what about in the joints and on the "jimp"? Do you do anything about oiling those?

  8. #18
    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    lz6,

    I have used TufGlide/TufCloth on all my razors (carbon & stainless) for the last 18 months with superb results

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ

  9. #19
    Str8 & Loving It BladeRunner001's Avatar
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    Arrow +1 Mineral Oil

    I am a mineral oil kind of guy...it's easy to apply and it protects the blade nicely. You won't go wrong.

    Make sure whatever you choose, you don't go for olive oil or anything similar...they go rancid very quickly and in fact, promote oxidation...You want something inert

    -Robert

  10. #20
    Member Peterazor's Avatar
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    All of the oils mentioned work, they just have different consistencies. I currently use medical grade mineral oil. IMO, paying close attention to clean up is more important than the type of oil. I don't think non medical oils are dangerous because stropping before shaving removes oils off the edge. The thing to be aware of with WD40 is most of it evaporates off shortly after spraying, leaving a very thin layer of oil that would only be good for a short time. Thicker oils such as mineral are better for longer term storage.

    Make sure the blade is dry before applying oil. Your fingers should be dry too if you're using them to apply the oil. Otherwise the water droplets could get trapped between the blade and oil, causing water spots. I had a problem with water spots the first time I got my SR. After I had them buffed out (thx to Lynn) I paid closer attention not to leave water on the blade too long while shaving, wiping it clean every few passes and keeping the inside of the scales dry. Also remember to strop after shaving otherwise wet shaving clippings can stick to the edge, causing water spots. One last thing don't store your SR in the bathroom.
    Last edited by Peterazor; 04-30-2010 at 02:23 AM.

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