Thread: Pimples irritation and razor burn. Technique? Blades? Soap/Aftershave?

I've just recently entered the exciting world of shaving with straights. More accurately, I've been using a shavette type holder with disposable blades. I've been at it, using the straight every two or three days and I've gotten pretty good with it. When shaving, I can now manage to get through without any nicks, and usually without any weepers. However, I'm still having some problems.

When shaving using my straight, I have been going in two passes, WTG and XTG/ATG depending on what part of my face I'm on. Like I said, I can generally make it through with no problems, but in certain spots, all within half an inch of my lips, it'll feel like razor burn when I'm done.

The reason I only shave every third day or so, is because if I go more often than that, these razor burn areas turn into very small whitehead pimples. I was horrified to get up this morning and see about 9 of them very small and clustered together near my upper right lip, and my last shave was on Saturday morning. I'd like to keep at it with the straight so as to improve my technique and eventually restore and use my great grandfathers razor, but I cant show up to work with worse skin than I had in highschool.

There are so many variables to straight shaving that have changed since the recent days of the mach 3, that I can't be certain which is causing the irritation. I'm currently using a straight blade holder from Parker Safety Razor with "Shark Super Stainless" blades, I've tried both reusing the blades 2 to 3 times, and using a new blade for each shave. I use a badger brush from Parker with Col Conk old bay rum soap. I use some sort of Gillette branded aftershave, but have also tried (in efforts of mitigating this problem) Calvin Klein "Escape" scented aftershave.

I’m wondering which of these possible variables it could be that’s causing this to happen. As a reference, before getting into shaving with this “straight” I was using a mach 3 daily and I didn’t even bother with shaving cream or gel, I simply splashed some water on my face and started shaving, I also didn’t bother with aftershave unless I had a hot date with the wife. All of this and I rarely if ever had normal razor burn.

Has anyone else ever had this occur? If so, what was it that caused the problem? I’m wondering if it’s the soap, as I’ve heard some people have issues with glycerine. I’m also wondering if perhaps it’s the blades. I’ve heard that disposable blades on straights are much sharper than a properly honed true straight, but would that cause anything like this? It could obviously, my being a novice (about a month in) be my technique, but I’m making an almost obsessive effort to follow the advice on these forums, making sure not to press in with the blade, to follow proper angles, and to follow proper pre and post shave treatments, along with the fact that I can achieve BBS on certain parts of my face with no discomfort at all during or after the shave.

I know this post has been long, but I’m really concerned about this. I’d really rather not have to give up on straights, its something I’ve become very enthusiastic about (I even combed some antique shops in NYC during my lunch and bought a 6/8 full hollow ground from “Thistle Cut Co”), but I really can’t keep doing it if it’s going to make me look like a greasy teenager. Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated.

Hey Dinerroll,

May I suggest that this is likely due combinations of your shaving soap, aftershave and sensitive skin areas. You may have to switch it up until you find an optimum, less oily substitute. Scrubbing your face in a pre-shave shower also helps.

good question!

pimples are a small infections right? or a small gland that is full of goo?
Maybe it's a hygienic issue with the blade, towel or hands.

It bothers me sometimes too, mostly in the neck.
I'll try to continue this train of thought (infection) after work hours, in the meantime, feel free to chip in. I'd like to solve this too.

Hi,
I've experienced exactly what you are talking about, and it was my technique. Too much pressure. As I learned to lighten up, that problem faded.
My upper lip was a bad area, because I wanted BBS there, and my chin is still showing a bit of razor rash, mostly because i tend to make too many passes in that area.
Hang in there; you've chosen a very unforgiving shaving system, and it'll take a while to get it just right. FWIW, I've got a shavette, it sits unused because of that reason.
One thing that worked for me was to "cork" my blades before shaving with them. It seemed to smooth them out just a tiny bit, though it reduced the number of shaves I got from a blade.
Good luck, and remember, your shaves WILL improve!

Originally Posted by wdwrx

FWIW, I've got a shavette, it sits unused because of that reason.
One thing that worked for me was to "cork" my blades before shaving with them. It seemed to smooth them out just a tiny bit, though it reduced the number of shaves I got from a blade.

wdwrx, thanks for your comments, they're very intriguing. I was busy crafting my earlier reply when you posted. I had two questions for you. First, what do you mean by corking the blade? And second, would you mind elaborating on that comment about your shavette? Is the shavette the unforgiving shaving system or is it straight razor shaving in general?

Hi,
The whole shavette thing is generally considered unforgiving. Straight razors tend to be a little more forgiving of poor technique. Most Barbers use this style of shaver on other people though, so it can't be that hard to figure out, it certainly defeated me though.

As for corking, just draw the blade edgewise through a piece of cork (real cork, not the new plastic corks) just enough to bury the very edge. There may or may not be any benefit to this.... reviews are mixed. It may help to smooth out the very edge of the blade, it may also slightly dull it and remove the protective coatings on the blade... worth a try though. If it doesn't feel smoother, or starts to pull, don't bother.

If you do have a real straight, send it out to be honed and try it. I found that there is no comparison to the quality of shaves.

Now that I've become fairly good with my straights, I keep intending to try my shavette again, but somehow I just can't be bothered.....

Thanks for both of your replies. As i said in the OP, I'm pretty religious about prep, so I've always done the pre-shave shower. As for hygenics, I don't think it would be the blade, because I'm using a new disposable SE blade every time, and I don't have any problems when I use a cartridge with barbasol canned goop which would rule out the towel.

This morning I shaved with an old mach 3 cartridge (probably 4 uses in or so) barbasol, and the "Escape" aftershave (basically alcohol and fragrance). With stretching and two passes (everywhere but the affected areas by the lips) I was able to achieve BBS with it, and I have no irritation whatsoever. I'm going to wait a few days and probably try Thursday morning again with the straight.

As I can only change one variable at a time to see what's doing it, I'm going to switch out the barbasol for the soap and keep at it with the Mach 3, as with there I don't have to worry nearly as much about technique. I'll keep you guys posted and I'd appreciate any additional insight from you two and any additional posters.

Originally Posted by dinerroll1066

I've just recently entered the exciting world of shaving with straights. More accurately
....snip...

The reason I only shave every third day or so, is because if I go more often than that, these razor burn areas turn into
....snip...
Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated.[/SIZE] [/SIZE]

Well there are a lot of possible issues....

Simplify the problem, use a very short list of products.

Use a very mild shave soap or cream.
I recommend a fragrance free shave soap like:
Shaving Lotions, Shaving Soaps, Creams, Lotions & Toiletries - ClassicShaving.com
Do try Williams and VDH first if you can find them local
for the price they are hard to ignore.

Do not use an aftershave, just rinse clean with warm
clear water and pat dry. Twenty min after
you might try Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm. The
twenty min is important.

I would hazard a guess that your blade is dull or it
is being held at too aggressive an angle. I find that
the Yellow handled BiC for sensitive skin tossable razors
are inexpensive enough and sharp enough to recommend
in a situation like this. It solves the sharp enough
and correct angle well enough....

Lastly shave with one simple systematic pass. No
second ATG pass. One pass, re-lather, feel for patches
that you might have missed and tidy only those bits up.
Rinse with warm clear water, pat dry.....

Once you skin is under control you can change one thing
at a time and give that change a three day test.

Use a fresh clean towel each day. The first seven day
set to buy is a set of shave towels (cotton kitchen glass
towels are great).

I'll echo some of LG Roy's suggestions:

Try using very little -- almost no pressure when shaving. Also, resist the urge to make multiple passes across and against the grain. Instead, just make one pass with the grain and call it a day. Yes, you might not end up with a wickedly close, sticky shave but in my experience, using only one pass really cuts down on pimples and ingrown hairs. These techniques are made easier with a very sharp blade.

Also, bear in mind that shaving with the grain doesn't necessarily mean shaving straight down your face. If you refrain from shaving for a few days and then look closely at your beard, you may find that hairs grow in different directions on various parts of your face and neck.

I've also had some success with a product called Burt's Bees Acne Spot Treatment. It contains salicylic acid (don't ask me how it works -- I'm an historian who almost failed HS chemistry) but it does a nice job of soothing ingrown hairs fairly quickly.

Best of luck with straight razor shaving.