Thread: Grinds

People have their own preferences too. Different grinds feel different while shaving, obviously wedges are heavier, full hollows are lighter. I like the big and heavy choppers, others don't. Either will shave good, if sharpened properly.

I'll have to get a few once I get started then I'll figure out which is better for me. Thanks for the info.

Sharp is sharp. The angle of attack is the same between most razors, which means that they all cut hair. IMHO, however, if a hollow comes up against a stubborn hair, it will tend to flex OVER the hair and save it for another pass. The wedge razors don't care what's in it's way and just slams right through everything. As a result, and I'm sure that it was just because I started out using hollows is that I get less irritation from a hollow as I do a wedge.

good point. I have been wondering if a wedge would be harder to learn with over a hollow, and if it would take less passes to shave with a wedge.

Good comments above. A comment on something other than the shaving experience is in order I believe. Keeping hollowed out blades sharp is much easier. I don't recommend wedges or near wedges for newbies because they are more difficult to maintain.

Originally Posted by thumper15

good point. I have been wondering if a wedge would be harder to learn with over a hollow, and if it would take less passes to shave with a wedge.

Thumper: first, THANK YOU for asking this question. I was about to start a thread asking the same thing. 'Middle aged noob here, at about 7-8wks. My questions lately have been about trying to describe the differences in grinds and sizes. All I've found was some form of 'try them all'. Horse trading to me is a PITA. Fortunately, there are really good people & attitudes here - I'm most grateful.

Your question about grind is one of my two biggest questions - the other being blade size. In my short experience, anything smaller than 5/8 can shave just fine, but takes more work. 'Less fun, requires more care on heavy beard sections, as the resistance it encounters makes the blade want to rotate on it's axis - rapidly changing the blade angle. The skilled can probably shave w/ a piece of sharpened angle iron, but the short blades look easier to use, and are NOT.

Grind. I've used 4/8 full H, 5/8 full hollow in HCS and stainless, and had good shaves from both. One 5/8 1/2 hollow, which gives less feedback, but also less drama or work to get the good shave. Yesterday, got my first 6/8, 1/4 hollow (wacker). The short version is it was the easiest and finest shave I've had so far. If feedback is measured by the sound of the blade ringing, it has less. If feedback is measured by the sensation on the face, I'd say it delivers as much, but it's more tactile than audible. It's a heavier blade, w/ some girth in the shank, which helps those w/ larger hands. The stability of the heavier blade, with the more sedate sound, is making the shave easier. Where this is most evident is being able to use the toe more for depressions under the jaw line and vertical dips where adams apple transitions to the neck muscles. I'm less concerned that the vibration or flex will do something undesireable (like the twisting of the short 4/8). I can see why the heavier grinds inspire confidence in the Noob.

Now when I hear the very experienced guys - look at JimmyHAD's review of his 2 razor set from wacker, it seems that although the experienced can enjoy a wider range of heights and grinds, not all forsake their heavier grinds for the full or extra hollows.

The question that remains for me is about the taller blades - which Jimmy speaks of. John at shavingshop (wonderful to talk or work with) mentioned he thought the taller (7/8, 8/8) blades were more stiff (than shorter blades of the same grind), even if full hollow grinds. I've not tested w/ a blade yet, but if that how it works on my face, I've moved completely out of the 5/8s blades & will likely reside in 6/8 at 1/2-3/4 hollow or 7/8 blades in 1/2 to full hollow, knowing the stiffness will be available to make the toe more useful and managable.

I would have to confirm that the heavier grind is easier for this noob, but I suspect that even if skills grow to allow full hollow joy, I suspect I'm going to keep a heavy grind around anyway.

Pinklather: alot of what you posted was what I was wondering about, blade stiffness and the amount of feedback in the shave with each. A 6/8 full will not be a stiff as a 6/8 1/2, and a 1/2 will not be as stiff as a 1/4 and so on and so on. This is like a conversation I had with the driver of the sprint car I crewed on, he said ask any metalergist and they'll say steel has no memory, which I found odd since we use steel for springs in torsion bars and last time I checked they sprung back. I have yet to buy a straight but have been handling as many as I can find in the antique stores and I will say the 5/8 and 4/8 just don't fit my hands well. They feel dinky. Personally I'm starting to look more at the 6/8 in a half grind to start with and then take it from there. When I lived in the Hood River area in washington I got a haircut at a barber shop there ( which he was retiring in a week or so) and he used a straight to finish the haircut. Now I don't know what gringd was on that blade but man when he started it sounded like he was taking hide with it, but it was the best damn haircut I ever got.

Hi Thumper!
The very next shave w/ the wacker was a re-run of the first - incredible and EASY. This, with a spanish point.

I'm starting to think the heavier blade - whether or not the grind is heavy, is a big part of it. 'Feels good, steady. I'm not spending any mental energy over feeling blade angle get out of sorts. I started shaving ATG the first few shaves, and it didn't seem that hard w/ a 5/8 full hollow. With the heavy blade, it just seems quite normal.

Due mostly to impatience, I overpaid for a Dovo Stainless micarta ($225 5/8 full hol), which was very much NOT shave ready. That's the same price as the wacker. Since then, I've read, experimented, bled (repeat ad naseum). If I could start over, I'd probably buy something at least 6/8, likely something less than full hollow, and I must agree w/ the forums that buying new production or functional vintage from a respected forum member would be how I'd do it. I'd mention specific guys, but that would be a disservice to others who deserve equal credit. A big benefit is getting it already honed, which is another skill with a substantial learning curve. Trying to learn honing and str8 shaving together, detracts from learning to shave well.

One comment about the heavier grinds for the noob - someone said they are harder to maintain. My particular wacker has a very mild, designed-in smile (longitudinal curvature). This has taken some mild learning to strop, but hasn't been that hard. If the blade were completely straight, I don't think it would be any harder than a full hollow - probably easier, again because of the weight/stability riding the strop.

I hope you make fewer mistakes than I. Before the heavier wacker, a shave WAS an event, but nervous/tense, trying to get it right and keep enough blood to function . (that's exaggeration) Although it quickly became bloodless, using the wacker (or I suspect any similar quality/grind/size) changed the game in a single shave. It's now relaxed, and a pleasure. I shave ATG at will, and without tension or drama.

The current dilema (sp) is whether or not to pull the trigger on a Williams custom, and whether to stick w/ 6/8, try 7/8, and how heavy a grind. If the wacker is that good, could the Williams be better? Here, I'm not thinking appearance or embellishment, but the shave. The most disturbing thing I've read to date was experienced guys counseling a noob to try a more humble blade, and if they thought they'd stay with it - get the Williams immediately. (the sound you hear is my wallet running through the door, screaming)