Thread: shaving against the grain

I should clarify that I don't shave against the grain on my second pass except for my neck (only because I can't get a good right-angle approach there). The only other places I shave against the grain -- and the only places I get any significant amount of the against-the-grain tugging that we are discussing -- are a few spots along my jaw that still need touching up after the second pass.

Shaving against the grain should generally be postponed until only fine stubble is left to be cut. My neck is my only exception, and that's really a special case for me.

Originally Posted by mparker762

I should clarify that I don't shave against the grain on my second pass except for my neck (only because I can't get a good right-angle approach there). The only other places I shave against the grain -- and the only places I get any significant amount of the against-the-grain tugging that we are discussing -- are a few spots along my jaw that still need touching up after the second pass.

Shaving against the grain should generally be postponed until only fine stubble is left to be cut. My neck is my only exception, and that's really a special case for me.

Ok, maybe a stupid question but have you looked closely at your neck and the way your whiskers lie? Mine run sideways, pointing towards the center of my throat and so when I'm doing a N-S pass and then a S-N pass I'm going across the grain both times. Like you mention, I find it incredibly difficult to go sideways in order to get a proper "against the grain" pass and haven't yet figured out a good way to hold the blade to accomplish it.

I need to study the videos more and I'm wishing Lynn's DVD would hurry up and hit the store shelves!

-- Gary F.

Originally Posted by gfoster

Ok, maybe a stupid question but have you looked closely at your neck and the way your whiskers lie?

Yep. Mine grow straight up, and grow very flat against my skin. So when I shave I first shave from the collarbone up, then relather and shave straight down, but I hold the razor very flat, with the spine just off of my skin instead of at the normal 30 degree angle. This helps keep the blade from submarining under the hairs.

Then I go on and shave the rest of my face. You're supposed to shave the most difficult areas last to allow maximum marinating time, but in my case the neck is only difficult because of the geometry issues, not because of the whiskers are hard to cut. The ones that need the marinating are the ones on my jawline and the sides of my mouth, so I do keep those areas are lathered first and shaved last.

If you're worried about tugging, you might want to try a honemeister-sharpened razor just to get a benchmark. I've had two from John Crowley (and another should be arriving this week) so I've got a decent benchmark. My hone jobs tug more than his, but not uncomfortably so, so I'm happy.

Ah, that makes sense then. I wish mine grew differently, as it is I can never get my neck really satisfyingly glass smooth until I figure out how to go sideways without slitting my throat.

I also agree 100% on getting a honemeister sharpened razor to use as a benchmark. My self-honed Heljestrand tugs a little, definitely more than the ones Joe honed for me but they give me a target to shoot for. I honestly don't get hardly any tugging at all on the ones he did for me as long as I stretch the skin well and keep it tight. If I leave it a little bit loose it tugs and scrapes a bit though.

-- Gary F.

I typically go with an against the grain pass every other shave. The keenness of the razor is of great importance, but even with a very sharp razor, I find that technique is at least as important. When shaving against the grain, I've found that I need to keep a very acute angle with the razor; that is to say, I maintain it almost flat against my face...particularly on my upper lip, but also along my neck.

Just another data point,
Ed

You need to get one of the local knifemakers to make you a little hoe-shaped razor.


Or you could get one of these:-) It's probably short enough to get in there and clean out the stubble...

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

I typically go with an against the grain pass every other shave. The keenness of the razor is of great importance, but even with a very sharp razor, I find that technique is at least as important. When shaving against the grain, I've found that I need to keep a very acute angle with the razor; that is to say, I maintain it almost flat against my face...particularly on my upper lip, but also along my neck.

Just another data point,
Ed

Another very good point, I do the same thing and that made a world of difference when I first tried it.

well dang, maybe i am gettiing my razor somewhat sharp after all. I go against the grain every day everywhere except my lips, there i go across the grain.

Using a cutting angle (that's leading with the tip slightly before the heel, up to 30º) will also help you with the tugging.

X

Thanks for all of the advice. Sounds like my razor needs to be a little sharper, but I also need to work on my technique. I can't go across the grain on my neck for the same reasons as everybody else, but I do on my cheeks, and that definately helps with the following against the grain pass. ForestryProf, I have also noticed that the shallow angle also seems to help.

I have already hit the pasted strop for a few laps to sharpen the blade a little more. I will have to give my beard another day or two to grow long enough to shave again (I'm a slow grower) and then I will get back and let you know how it worked out.

Sounds like I need to make the "educational investment" and send my razor off to a honemeister. Or maybe I'll just buy a whole new "shave ready" razor...