Thread: suggestions about rust in hard to reach places...

there's some rust developing on the part of the blade that pivots on the pin on my new dovo. i was wondering what everyone's suggestions are about getting it out from down between the blade and the scales (is it possible to do so without taking the scales off? i hope so), and then keeping it off. any help is appreciated. thanks.

if i need to buy something, where is the best place to do so?

Lube your pivots with sterol or some other high quality, rust inhibiting oil. Dry your razors thoroughly after use and find a place on a shelf to let them dry (partially open) before putting them away. Mine sit open on a shelf (a high shelf as I have an 8-year-old daughter) overnight before putting them away when I take out the next days razor.

Yes, I know I've not told you how to remove existing rust, just prevent it. If the rust is beneath the scale, I don't see how you can get to it without removing the scales...sorry.

Ed

If it's between the scales on the tang, however, you can use some Maas and a q-tip to remove the rust in nothing flat.

And try not to wet that part of the razor...

Nenad

where should i get maas? does home depot or lowe's sell it, or do i have to get it online?

Originally Posted by cyrano138

where should i get maas? does home depot or lowe's sell it, or do i have to get it online?

WalMart, Target, probably at most hardware stores; it's a metal polish. I personally prefer a product called Simichrome. Similar to Maas, but seems to be a bit more abrasive. It also leaves a protective finish on the metal.

FWIW,
Ed

Got mine at Wally World. Ace Hardware has Flitz. Same thing just not as good supposedly. I've never used it. I got a tube of Simichrome in today. I'ts better than both if you can find it.

you can take a thin rag, even an old t-shirt, and rip it into thin strips.
With those you can get Maas/Flitz into tight spots and polish them. Imagine using dental floss, the same idea.
In fact, dental floss can be used too if it's really tight.

Now, a warning: be gentle and careful. you don't want to apply to much pressure because the pivot area is very sensitive, too much prying could loosen up the pivot and then your blade action would be all over the place. Also try not to push/dirt sand in there for obvious reasons. Also don't leave fibres and such from the rag in there because , in addition to the first problem, they would also attract moisture.

Redwoood

FWIW... I find that Maas, etc. does a good job when applied/rubbed with a thin strip of old t-shirt, dental floss, etc. Hardwood toothpicks work well to get in tight places... apply some Maas and then work it like you were using a cuticle stick... it's slow and tedious. Ultimately, there's no way to get to some areas (eg, the blade area immediately around the hinge pin) without the polish abrading the scale at the same time it's abrading the rust. And if you don't get that rust out, the rust itself will abrade the scale... either way eventually everything loosens up and the hinge pin will need tightening. If there's more than a tad of rust in there, I usually remove the pin and then polish the blade and scales individually... the end result is much better. If you're hesitant to tackle "repinning", a hint is to pick up one of those broken blade razors on ebay for a couple bucks... just make sure the scales aren't cracked at the hinge pin. Buy some pins from Classic Shaving (or wherever) and then practice repinning the junker. Do it several times until you feel comfortable. It could be the best $10 investment you've ever made if you plan on restoring many razors.

Walmart is supose to sell it but were I'm at all I've ever seen is the empty self with the Maas sticker on the shelf, I ended up getting it from a seller on Ebay.