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  1. #1
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    Default Buying guide/tips for vintage razors?

    Hi folks,
    I've been looking at getting a straight razor for some time now and this weekend stumbled upon a bit of a jackpot at a local antique shop.
    They had a drawer full of great looking vintage razors generally priced between $40-$60.
    I've been doing as much research as possible online but have yet to find any sort of definitive guide to buying a vintage razor.
    So far I've picked up some good tips on what to look for in a blade and to (generally) favor British or German brands, but I'm hoping folks here might be able to offer a more thorough list of what they'd look for when presented with a selection of 15+ razors from which to buy.
    I'm certain there are great deals hidden away in this drawer while there are likely also lots of lemons.
    I realize this is a rather broad question, but if anyone knows of any brands that are a slam dunk (provided the blade is in good shape), or any other tips I'd really appreciate it.
    Thanks so much,

    -GB.

  2. #2
      Lynn's Avatar
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    I normally look for razors that have as little flattening or hone wear on the spine as possible along with no rust. Some tarnish is ok, if you think it will clean off easily, but I stay away from a lot of pitting. Check the scales for cracks. It might be better if you have some of the brands that you saw vs. a laundry list of good brands and there are many including Sheffield, German and US made. I also tend to stay away from the 3/8 width blades or thinner.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

  3. #3
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    Well, I should point out that of the many I saw - one identical to this caught my eye.
    Name:  US army razor.JPG
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    Can't seem to find any information on it though.
    Thoughts?

  4. #4
    Texas Guy from Missouri LarryAndro's Avatar
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    There are different types of rust. The pitting rust Lynn referred to is a killer. Even if the blade looks pretty good, if there are little pits scattered around on the blade. You need to especially watch for pitting if someone has cleaned and buffed the razor. The blade might look shiny. And, a quick glance won't even detect pitting rust. But, look very closely at the shiny blades, as oftentimes even when polished, the pits show up.

    There are different types of rust, with pitting rust being the killer. On the other hand, patina and rust that coats instead of burrows might not be terminal.

    My other advice is that to the straight razor community, value is different than with collectors. At times, a razor is worth more to us than to the collector community. Or, and more often, vice versa.

    When discussing price with antique dealers, I explain that I am a user. Then, when I offer much less (at times) then they ask, they aren't offended. Give them a chance to come down.

    By the way, the $40-$60 for straight razors is probably quite inflated above what should be paid. Possibly, you are looking at a very nice collection. On the average, if I see these type prices on antique store razors, either they have no idea of the value, or they have a nice collection (rare), or they are looking for an easy mark.

    Pick out a few of the razors, note their characteristics, take pictures with cell phone. Then, research prices on Ebay.

  5. #5
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I did this thread in Feb, there is maybe some good info in there for you along with pics to help

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...eb-2011-a.html

  6. #6
    Tim Roberts TDITim's Avatar
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    Wade and Butcher seems to be a really good blade, I am very impressed with it the outcome of this blade and it seem like it holds it edge quite nicely. I am still new at this and I have used several. I used a Dovo, it was ok. Then I used a Dubl' Duck, after I honed it it seems ok. But I keep refering back to my Wade & Butcher. I only have 3 months experience as of now. Wish I could be of more assistance, good luck

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