Thread: Shaving angle

I guess I am slow but I just can't seem to get the shave angle thing. I understand the blade should be angled 30 deg from skin to spine but when you pull the razor down the face do you simply do kinda at an angle or like cross grain (if you can understand what I mean) or does the razor itself kinda slide sideways which seems just wrong to me. That way sounds like a good face slicing going to happen or am I just not getting it???

First 2 shaves with a straight was, well, not smooth at all. I do not think its sharpness either because it was brand new from Joe. I actually had a much nicer shave from the Quatro

I have spent some time going over the help files and forums but can't seem to find that just right answer. Hmmm

Just watch Lynn's video. The key is to have the blade placed on your face an angle of 30 degrees. Then depending on the pass you either go with the grain, across the grain or (hot debate topic) against the grain. However 30 degrees isn't written in stone. Depending on how your hair grows, you can also flatten the blade for some tougher areas.

This may be better for someone who has skype and a good webcam setup to just show you.

Firestart is right. Start off with the video of the honemeister himself shaving. I've been shaving with a straight for almost two years and still watch it from time to time.

First priority is prep. Shaving after a shower or after a couple of minutes of hot towels to soften the beard. Second thing is to make sure the skin is stretched well. Third thing is 20-30 degrees is the ideal angle. Some folks reference this as raising the two spine-widths from your face. Experiment with different angles too. I use much less than 20 degrees going against the grain on my neck. Nothing's written in stone.

You can impart at scything motion to the blade, sort of moving it diagonally. Very trick for new folks and a fine way to end up cutting yourself. You can hold the razor at an angle and accomplish the same thing. For example, lead with the tip or toe of the razor, positioning the blade at 45 degrees relative to the floor, with the blade being 20-30 degrees elevation from the face. Sounds complicated I know. Instead of you making a diagonal stroke, you position the razor at a diagonal and make a straight stroke. You accomplish the same thing.

The 30 degrees is not the law, it's just a suggestion. There are places on my face where I lay the spine nearly on the skin, others where I do the usual 2-spine-widths angle, and all angles in between.

As for the diagonal stroke, if it makes it easier for you just use a straight cut for awhile. It shaves fine, but pulls a bit more. I use a toe-leading cut on my cheeks, and heel-leading strokes on my goatee area, while the neck gets a straight cut.

How are you stropping and with what?

Well I only used the razor 2 times since I had it because I just got my new strop today. I know 2 times really isn't enough to get a good shave but something just didn't seem right I suppose.

I have watched Lynn's video 2 times but i'll watch it again.

BTW the strop is Tony's paddle strop. I just got a 2 sided and one side is pasted. I hope to get a hanging strop sooner or later.

Usually I will splash warm to hot water on my face a while. Then I will workon the lather, the water on the face again, then brush the lather on my face. After I shave it all with the grain I re-wet my face again then relather for against the grain shave. This is the routin (sp?) I use every morning. Then after face I shave the noggin. I was using the ol cartridge until now since I have the strop so i'll use the straight every day.

You have to just experiment with different angles and straight versus toe or heel leading while shaving. This is not an exact science. Remember, the old manuals say becoming proficient at this thing takes from 6 months to a year. From personal experience I have to agree. Eventually it all becomes second nature and you don't even think about it you automatically changle angles and cuts where necessary. It may be hard to believe now but just keep at it and you will notice rapid improvement.

Trying to shave with a razor that you have not JUST FINISHED STROPPING is an exercise in futility. You must strop the razor just before shaving (not the nite before) for approx 30-50 roundtrip laps. If your using a shorter paddle strop then the number of laps is increased.

Hope this helps,

Daily pre shave stropping on a paddle requires great care not to knock the edge off so be extra careful, go extra slow and make sure the entire edge is getting honed. And remember ... NO PRESSURE!

Also, the point leading shave stroke is called a 'cutting angle' and some of the barber texts recommend about 30º, but I have had success with as little as 10º and safety with as much as 45º. I find it is actually safer than trying to push straight into the whiskers and getting caught up.

X

I shaved just a little while ago and it was ok. My poor chin was rawish lol. Actually had like 4 niks on me but I will shave everyday until I get it down. I will strop way more next time. I only done it like 20 times this time. I take my time on the strop since I am new I try to watch what I am doing and do it right.