Thread: How likely is it

Oh ya, the 220 will be great for the kitchen. I take my kitchen knives to 3K quite often, but I have dedicated stones for knives.

Oh for the kitchen knives and everything else I use a Lansky to about a 1200. I cant seem to keep the angle without some help.

I've never used Lansky's, but have been thinking more and more about it for kitchen, pocked, and hunting knives.

Originally Posted by Lynn

I don't know if this will make sense as I am not very scientific, but I try not to pay attention to the width of the bevel itself. What I am trying to do by establishing a bevel is to produce an efficient edge. A bevel can be quite small but produce a superior edge when set correctly. If your pressure is consistent using either circles or X strokes, you can usually get there on a decent razor without removing a lot of metal or increasing the width of the bevel visibly on the razor.

+1, I have at least two razors with bevels so small you can't hardly even see them. But these two razors, probably because of their steel..., are two of my best shavers. I don't use the HHT because my hair is goofy and wont cut well, but I pull the hairs from a cheap brush I got at X-mart and make sure my razors can slice through them at the 1K. Until that happens at multiple points on my blade, I don't progress to higher grits.

I that all make sense and I was meaning more that when I looked at the edge a portion of it looked more sandblasted like it hadn't touch anything other than the 220 grit. But a little update. I spent hours re-lapping from 1k up with the pencil grid method. It had to be the stones. Now I have a near mirror finish to the edge with just a few striations hear and there. But I noticed that I did not get all the pitting out of the edge. Looking thru a 20x loop I saw one spot and wouldnt you know it is in the middle of the edge. So I believe I can work it out by just going back to the 5 and 8k and not go all the way back to 220 or 1k. Wish me luck. Now to work on that Case razor. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

@shooter if you can afford the "Wicked edge" I wold recommend that one over the lansky you can get a much more refined edge than with the lansky and it is much more diverse, but they are proud of it.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. It was very helpful and much appreciated.

Ok I now have a shave ready Henckels 415. It was my stroke I was either lifting or something. So I turned it around literally, I started back honing. And was able to notice because the water trail. Long story short after figuring that out it is now smooth as silk...Like buttering toast...Thanks for all the advice...

Originally Posted by poppy926

that I have found 2 warped blades? Is it more likely that I need to lap my hones better? I followed the instructional videos I have found with the pencil marking wet sandpaper. The thing is that after Lynn's recomendation after finishing with a 12K Naniwa I stropped like he said and tried to shave this morning and it was still a little uncomfortable. So I looked at it with 20 loop and found mostly like a mirror polished edge, but a few spots still looked like it was sandblasted. Any suggestions.

Flat hones help but are not all that is required.

Try the magic marker test and "audition" your razor
on your hones. If the hone wipes the magic marker
and leaves a clean edge you are on the right track.

If it does not try slightly different hone strokes
to see if they wipe the marker from the bevel
clear to the edge.

Flat lapped hones help a lot when switching
from one hone to another for progressively finer
grits. The old barber that had five razors and
one touch up hone that grew swayback together over the
years had no problem (until he got a new razor).

The magic marker test ... can tell a lot.