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Thread: Trying out razor-restoring
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08-22-2006, 12:05 PM #1
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- Aug 2006
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- Trondheim, Norway
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Thanked: 0Trying out razor-restoring
I've got a razor that I purchased from an antique store here in Trondheim and I want to start playing with restoring the shine of the metal. The scales look like plastic but are in quite good shape. The blade (I think it's 4/8 but not sure) looks ok but is not at all shiny, which is what I want to try my hand at fixing.
I don't want to spend too much cash on getting equipment as I've never really done much of this kind of work and I don't know if it's something I'll enjoy or not.
So, should I just go to an auto-store and get some different grit sand paper and use the paper as is? Should I remove the scales?
Any tips on how to get started on a practice blade without spending too much cash would be very welcome. (I got access to an old dremel).
I've got Bills cd, but I'm not really getting it. I miss a chapter on "tools you _need_", "tools you want" and "tools you'd be happy if you could afford".
Just to be clear, I've looked for good info on how to restore razors, but I can't really find any directions on how to get started if you don't have any tools what so ever.
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Alf
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08-22-2006, 01:27 PM #2
If you go to www.widgetsupply.com, you can get some nice flap-wheels in 120/240/400 grit, 1.5x0.5 inch size. They should restore your blade to a nice matt finish and they're cheap (like $1.30 a pop and they last about 10 blades).
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08-22-2006, 09:10 PM #3
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- Aug 2006
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Thanked: 0They don't ship to Norway. Anyone have spares and able to send me? I'll cover costs and shipping of course.
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08-23-2006, 02:12 AM #4
Unless you talking about a blade with real corrosion and pitting in it I've found that products like Simichrome or cape cod polishing cloths do a really fine job of taking off minor rust and gunk and really polishing up a dull blade. The cape cod cloths have more abrasive in them and can do more wwith minor corrosion or more rust. They can also be used to polish up the scales if their either plastic or celluloid.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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08-24-2006, 05:04 AM #5
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Thanked: 2209Try the metal polish route first. It is the least expensive and you will be surprised at the results. The Dremel and sanding stuff is for hard core restorer's and blades with an unacceptable level of pitting and hone wear.
Browse the Restoration forum. It has lots of good tips. Leave the handles on at first.
One of our guys, Coully, from Scotland, has found a product called "Peak" that is a good metal polish. Maybe it is available to you. Frankly, most any metal polish with some abrasive in it will do the job.
Hope this helps,Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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08-24-2006, 08:07 AM #6
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- Aug 2006
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- Trondheim, Norway
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Thanked: 0It helps. Thanks. It's kind of frustrating that all the advice I read contains products that are not available or have different names entirely where I'm from. And some of the equipment I can't even order, like the flap-wheels and also the mini microscope thingy I've seen recommended. They don't export it for some reason.
I'll go with the metal polish for now and then maybe I'll bribe someone into rolling me a package with some of the stuff I need later. Like the microscope and flap wheels and probably some other stuff I realize that I "need".
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08-30-2006, 11:14 AM #7
I think I will have to look around for some metal polish as well.. But It can't be used after you have placed the edge on the blade... only before.
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08-31-2006, 03:53 AM #8
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Thanked: 2209Good point! Do all of your restoration work before you start honing.
Originally Posted by pilothazRandolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin