Results 11 to 16 of 16
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07-23-2011, 02:54 AM #11
Tons of restorers here. Just don't pick anyone named "Squints", "Hook",or"coke bottle glasses" forthe work...
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07-23-2011, 02:56 AM #12
Skip Frodo nine fingers too...
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07-23-2011, 03:01 AM #13
Even if you decide to sit on these for a bit, be sure to neutralize that rust first.
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07-24-2011, 10:42 AM #14
Nice razors, I wish i inherited them. if i were you i'd definetly get those razors cleaned up & honed. I like wnb with spike point. what size are they?
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07-24-2011, 03:05 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 15
Thanked: 0Originally Posted by sigit666
Originally Posted by WBK
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07-24-2011, 05:37 PM #16
You do need to oil the razors promptly.
You cannot "neutralize" rust but since
rust requires oxygen you can limit the
access of oxygen to the steel to minimize
future rust with a non reactive oil.
It is hard to go wrong with common mineral oil
from the drug store. You can also use it
on wood cutting boards to protect the wood
from water and funk. It is also inexpensive.
There are other products that do chemically react
with rust (black rust .vs. red rust) but I do not have
enough experience with enough of them to make a recommendation.
Often gun and fishing gear sporting goods shops have
good rust prevention products. See what your local shop
has.
To my knowledge rust can only be removed with abrasion.
I use 3M 2000 grit wet dry paper on my ebay finds and
use small bits of 3m paper and a chopstick or toothpick
to get into the nooks. 2000 grit is often too fine but
it does make it clear what the next step is.
Even a dull razor is sharp so use caution when sanding.
Power tools are a risk to life, limb and the razor so
take your time and use hand tools if you attempt
to work on your own razor.
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The Following User Says Thank You to niftyshaving For This Useful Post:
paco664 (07-24-2011)